Using a carabiner as a quick connect is potential for cross load or edge loading like the picture below shows. In that instance the carabiner only has about 30% of its major axis strength. As others have pointed out in similar threads, using it around a tree with a round bend is not the same forces applied rule as using it at the edge of a jagged rock. They would be correct! But another issue that never gets mentioned is that using it as a quick connect for your tether, is also multidirectional loading your carabiner. Because they are designed to pull only along the major axis, when you pull it across the top and then have the bottom of the biner as an entry and exit angle, you are loading it in more than one direction which can also weaken the carabiner (depending on the angle) by as much as 70%.Why couldn't I just use the prussic with a screw carabiner vs a delta link?
Crossloading issues?
I currently just use the basic tether eye.
Your thoughts are welcome!
The entry and exit of the rope through the carabiner doesn’t tri-load it, it only spreads the load along the carabiner. There are only two separate directions the load is working on the carabiner when choked.But another issue that never gets mentioned is that using it as a quick connect for your tether, is also multidirectional loading your carabiner. Because they are designed to pull only along the major axis, when you pull it across the top and then have the bottom of the biner as an entry and exit angle, you are loading it in more than one direction which can also weaken the carabiner (depending on the angle) by as much as 70%.
I agree most times with things you say Brocky but in this instance I will respectfully disagree. Depending on the angle, the top rope pulls outward but the bottom entry can absolutely pull differently between where the rope comes around the tree, and where the rope comes down to our weigh. Because it’s not directly in line with the major axis, that is a multidirectional load by definition.The entry and exit of the rope through the carabiner doesn’t tri-load it, it only spreads the load along the carabiner. There are only two separate directions the load is working on the carabiner when choked.
I understand your theory here I really do but because the directional pull is not directly on the major axis, the carabiner is weakened. Not only from the bend radius against the tree (cross loading) but also because the load is not setting in the corner to minimize the load along the gated axis. It would react similar to an overloaded carabiner (where the load is too far from the proper alignment of the major axis) or as a multidirectional load because the load is not perfectly horizontal nor is it perfectly vertical with the alignment of the carabiner. Now how much it is weakened would be anyone’s guess but there is a reason that it’s suggested to use wider stronger rope clips that aren’t dependent on direction instead of carabiners. And honestly now days there are rope clips that are only 3 ozs more than an aluminum carabiner, so there’s no reason not to use them in my opinion. I do appreciate your input in this though Brocky because I agree in part that the forces applied are not the same.The change in direction of the rope and load still only load the link or carabiner at one point, spreading the load along the end doesn’t separate it into two separate points of loading at that end. The connector is only being pulled in two directions not three separate directions.
Wesspur sells aluminum rope clips that weigh as little as 4 oz which is barely an ounce more than a carabiner and some cost as little as $18. Or a steel delta link which will weigh about the same but costs a little less.Short answer, don't do it!
You guys certainly enlightened me.
What are the preferred options?
I'll listen to the answer off air, thanks!
I am with you. I don't understand any other idea. Quiet, no additional 'fiddle factor' and holds tight. I mean I do get it us saddle hunters like to over complicate things from time to time. Simplicity
Agree it is a weaker way to go, but not multidirectional/ triaxial loading. Petzl agrees with us.I understand your theory here I really do but because the directional pull is not directly on the major axis, the carabiner is weakened. Not only from the bend radius against the tree (cross loading) but also because the load is not setting in the corner to minimize the load along the gated axis. It would react similar to an overloaded carabiner (where the load is too far from the proper alignment of the major axis) or as a multidirectional load because the load is not perfectly horizontal nor is it perfectly vertical with the alignment of the carabiner. Now how much it is weakened would be anyone’s guess but there is a reason that it’s suggested to use wider stronger rope clips that aren’t dependent on direction instead of carabiners. And honestly now days there are rope clips that are only 3 ozs more than an aluminum carabiner, so there’s no reason not to use them in my opinion. I do appreciate your input in this though Brocky because I agree in part that the forces applied are not the same.