Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware??? LOLWhat is the link to those washers on your line
Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware??? LOLWhat is the link to those washers on your line
You "sandwich" the ATC between the Meech and what?
Got a picture for us?
Sewn or spliced eyes can isolate one slot and not spread the hitch legs as much. There a few different single slot tubulars also.
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There just rubber washers, you can get them on Amazon or your local hardware storeWhat is the link to those washers on your line
Check the hardware bins and the hardware store or auto parts store for neoprene fender washers. If you have a an inch or so offcut of your rope you can test it with the various sizes in the bin.What is the link to those washers on your line
What is the link to those washers on your line
The ATC take off just enough tension on the rope for the hitch to slide really smoothly. And it tend the hitch really well. I realized that the JRB hitch basically does the same thing as the ATC, but to this day I can't tie it efficiently and I don't think its a smooth as this setup. But the JRB is very clever, too clever for me. I can tie a Michoacán and slap the ATC in no time and no fear of messing up somewhere.
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YASSS! Only difference is I’m using a prussik for my autoblock and a secondary bridge.I was wanting to climb the way you described with one rope and your ATC....I had found that someone on YouTube was using the schwabish above their ATC with an additional autoblock below....did you test anything like that before landing on this? My ATC got delivered today so im going to be playing...
Brocky gots it going on! I just rid of my ropeman 1 and using the schwabish by itself, climbing and hunting from rappel rope. Less noise, weight and worse case scenario, I can just tend it and slide my butt down in an emergency…..it’s a lot of friction though. I use an ATC(cheap black Diamond) for rappelling. I put it below the schwabish and add a prussik below the ATC for a brake(similarly to the autoblock). I also have a secondary bridge for rappelling and redundancy……….I like redundancy. I actually run my secondary bridge through the prussik so I’d remain in the middle should I hang from it.
YASSS! Only difference is I’m using a prussik for my autoblock and a secondary bridge.
This may have been answered but I'll chime in cause I did it this way for years.
1) Climb like normal and hunt.
When the time comes to rappel:
2) Set lineman's belt and take weight from tether by placing it on LB.
3) Move hitch attachment from bridge to whatever side you use for your brake hand and clip it into that lineman's loop.
4) Clip into the system whatever descent device you'll use. I used a plain old figure 8. It worked quite well.
5) Add weight to tether until your friction hitch backup has your weight.
6) Remove LB.
7) Tend your back up in order to rappel. If need be, release your brake hand in order to stop.
Imagine having a sticht hitch or WLR hitch above your atc… I think you’d be very pleased with one of those, especially since they break easily under load.Just tested this out last night. Using a Mich above an ATC, it climbed and rappelled well. I definitely got some rope burn the first rappel because I really had to pinch the hitch to let my full weight on it descend. It was slow. Tried rappelling again wearing with a leather glove- it was much better.
Also tested rappelling by adding a Klemheist onto my right LB loop (two friction hitches). Not totally necessary, but by using the Klemheist it helps to alleviate tension on the Mich and the descent took less “muscle” to grip the upper hitch.
Overall, I really like this setup, and prefer the ATC over my Smart 2.0 in this configuration.
^^^^^The hitch should be compressed completely when descending, the ATC will take all the load and heat from the friction.
What do you mean by WLR hitch?Imagine having a sticht hitch or WLR hitch above your atc… I think you’d be very pleased with one of those, especially since they break easily under load.
I feel I can do that okay when having a foothold to allow some release of tension on the hitch. But if I step off my stick and then have to stop to take it off the tree, it’s then that releasing the hitch becomes more difficult and heated. Maybe I’m not doing something right.The hitch should be compressed completely when descending, the ATC will take all the load and heat from the friction.
This is also a downside of having your hitch above your atc. In this configuration the hitch is holding all of your weight, not a fraction of it. This hitch is plenty capable of holding all of your weight, the issue is being able to release the hitch under your full body weight. The hitches you mention are great at releasing easily after weight is removed; however, they are not exactly intended to break while under weight. So every time you stop you technically need to stand somehow to relieve the majority or all of force on the hitch so you can break it and transfer the weight to atc and continue your rappel.I feel I can do that okay when having a foothold to allow some release of tension on the hitch. But if I step off my stick and then have to stop to take it off the tree, it’s then that releasing the hitch becomes more difficult and heated. Maybe I’m not doing something right.