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Friction Hitches

Switch out the SMC rigging ring for a welded (no burrs) ring from the hardware store. They have a 200# SWL but these aren’t load bearing so it’s not a big deal. The switch was simply due to size and bulk.

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Thought about it but this works really well so I don’t see what I could gain knowing my past issues.

What all this has done is give me ideas for future SRT. This is so easy to tend yet immediately locks up that I’m thinking this and a 2nd with a foot loop would work well enough to ditch the hand ascender and madrock.


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Curious as to what happened after the rope got pulled through the ring?
 
Brocky said:
Looking for friction hitches that self tend, found this one, nothing else needed to hand tend. Works very good, the smoother and firmer the rope and hitch cord the easier it slides.
A miscalculation on the amount of cover needed for a double eye splicing project, led to making a single eye instead. Makes it nice and compact and it is in a basket configuration so double the strength of the cord.
View attachment 70636
Click to expand...
Mine look right? It's a tight fit with my 22" eye to eye. Look forward to testing it out.
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Brocky said:
Yes that’s it, a little of the shrink tubing can be cut off to get some more length, I trim it back to the stitches.
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Cool. Thanks.

And to clarify, this is acceptable for use in LB & tether applications, correct?*

*with all the usual: test at ground level, assume personal responsibility, don't take advice from random dudes on the internet etc.

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This is on Canyon C-IV (9mm), 6mm Bluewater acc. cord and a SMC rigging ring (28mm I.D.). This is also the smallest rigging ring they sell.

Yes, I know I forgot a wrap on top but this was just for demonstration.
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Bask side with (2) twsts before passing back through the ring.
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And this the the result of a sharp tug. It would be considered a shock load but also far under the shock load experienced from a slip or fall. This is a catastrophic failure in my opinion. Even though it still holds, you cannot fix this without taking your load off the rope...which cannot be done if your stand/stick broke causing the situation.
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Given the rope is 9mmx2 for 18 mm plus 6mmx2 for the acc cord, a shock load can pull approx. 30mm diameter of rope through a 28mm opening.
 
MNFarmHunter said:
This is on Canyon C-IV (9mm), 6mm Bluewater acc. cord and a SMC rigging ring (28mm I.D.). This is also the smallest rigging ring they sell.

Yes, I know I forgot a wrap on top but this was just for demonstration.
View attachment 71209

Bask side with (2) twsts before passing back through the ring.
View attachment 71210

And this the the result of a sharp tug. It would be considered a shock load but also far under the shock load experienced from a slip or fall. This is a catastrophic failure in my opinion. Even though it still holds, you cannot fix this without taking your load off the rope...which cannot be done if your stand/stick broke causing the situation.
View attachment 71211

Given the rope is 9mmx2 for 18 mm plus 6mmx2 for the acc cord, a shock load can pull approx. 30mm diameter of rope through a 28mm opening.
Click to expand...
This is the same issue I had with smaller diameter ropes. You need a smaller ring if you’re going to do smaller diameter than 11mm mainline and 8-9mm cord in my mind. It’s like anything, you need the appropriate size for the diameter rope you’re using.
 
gcr0003 said:
This is the same issue I had with smaller diameter ropes. You need a smaller ring if you’re going to do smaller diameter than 11mm mainline and 8-9mm cord in my mind. It’s like anything, you need the appropriate size for the diameter rope you’re using.
Click to expand...

Agreed but I do think that this needs to be put out there. It holds perfectly fine during normal usage but that shock load will pop it right through.
 
MNFarmHunter said:
Agreed but I do think that this needs to be put out there. It holds perfectly fine during normal usage but that shock load will pop it right through.
Click to expand...
I agree! Good pictures and glad you brought it up.
 
One man’s failure is another man’s shock absorber, the drop will be as long as the friction hitch stretched out, shorter legs would be best.
It is easily corrected by using a single, or two feet, foot lock. Correctly wrapping the rope around the foot or feet allows you to stand up on the rope, taking all the weight off the hitch, it also automatically pops it back through.
 
The Sticht doesn’t bind up to the point you can descend with it alone on a stationary line, easily and under control, and it self tends. Most other hitches will bind up right away, or eventually with use.
 
@Brocky, i wanna tie and try some when i get time... and so of the hitches above which also self tend, lets say your full body weight is freely hanging from one hitch, on one rope, lets say 6mm on 8mm... which is the easiest to break without unloading it? ... meaning that your full body weight stays on the system the whole time. For example, ya just wanted to rappel a few inches, then stop and a few more. For me, that's the test that's hard to pass.

Thx

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