No the limb bolts are extra long. No bow press needed.Is it difficult to put the string on?
You may have a issue with the string clearing the scope. You may have to remove the mini string silencers.so much good info here. Can anyone tell me what height rings they used with a hawke s-b1 scope? My mini is on order.
Thanks, I was reading that. I was planning on removing them. Maybe trying some limbsaver saver in the limbs if I find some that fit.You may have an issue with the string clearing the scope. You may have to remove the mini string silencers.
I have tried this with my red dot. Although full disclosure- I did not try at extended ranges - only up to 25 yds. I did not notice any significant poi shift. Shots may not have been perfect but some of that I attribute to not holding very steady. All shots were easily inside a 2-3” circle of normal rested/shoulder hold shots.To anyone here using red dot or reflex sights:
Have you had issues with parallax impacting POI relative to POA?
If not, have you only shot with repeatable form/cheek weld, consistent anchor etc?
If you have, same question - or did you have to do some weird stuff for it to show up?
If none of the above applies to you because you’re just out killin critters or bullseyes, try to make your red dot not hit where you aim by trying to view the dot from weird angles next time you practice. See if you can induce some POI shift. Report back here!
I've never had any parallax issues with RDS. And I've done a lot of shooting with them, shooting while moving, awkward positions, moving targets, moving target while I'm moving or in an awkward position, etc. None of this is "precise" but more like "balance of speed and accuracy". It's accurate enough for what I'm doing, out to 300yd; but out past about 50yd I'm far more deliberate about shooting position and cheek weld, etc.To anyone here using red dot or reflex sights:
Have you had issues with parallax impacting POI relative to POA?
If not, have you only shot with repeatable form/cheek weld, consistent anchor etc?
If you have, same question - or did you have to do some weird stuff for it to show up?
If none of the above applies to you because you’re just out killin critters or bullseyes, try to make your red dot not hit where you aim by trying to view the dot from weird angles next time you practice. See if you can induce some POI shift. Report back here!
I've never had any parallax issues with RDS. And I've done a lot of shooting with them, shooting while moving, awkward positions, moving targets, moving target while I'm moving or in an awkward position, etc. None of this is "precise" but more like "balance of speed and accuracy". It's accurate enough for what I'm doing, out to 300yd; but out past about 50yd I'm far more deliberate about shooting position and cheek weld, etc.
Yes, but it's a very small variation on POI. Before this season, I put a kisser button that nestles in the top of my nostril. It's really just reassurance since you're taking angled shots and I just wanted to be sure of my anchor.To anyone here using red dot or reflex sights:
Have you had issues with parallax impacting POI relative to POA?
If not, have you only shot with repeatable form/cheek weld, consistent anchor etc?
If you have, same question - or did you have to do some weird stuff for it to show up?
Kyle, did you do some experimentation with the original Hickory Creek. Having to do with working with open sights? Seems I recall something about that. I have an original I've been holding onto in hopes...
Set mine up yesterday with the Hawke scope. Hawke med rings fit nicely.I took the string silencers off just in case they would hit my rheostat. I added that offset bracket for the quiver. I got the cocking rope but didn’t find it useful. Too hard to get the d loop on the hinge using it. I’ll just do it by hand. Just have to do some more shooting and then try broadheads. I have some slick trick fixed blade to try. I cranked it up to 150 lbs. I did have to move the d loop slightly. Not a big deal though.