Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

[kyler1945]

Agreed. You don't have to buy specialty arrow shafts. Get good quality standard shafts and learn to prep them, like the squaring you are referring too. I'd get a decent field point test kit and see what tunes.

Another problem I see all the time with folks building heavier arrows is immediately jumping to 250 or 200 spine arrow shafts. I look for the weakest spine shaft that will tune with a little margin for error. In my case 340 works great. That puts as much weight forward as possible in the system.

Take the spine your spine chart recommends. For anything over 125gr up front, Go one spine stiffer.

Or just go to that link(not you, anyone reading along who hasn’t yet) I posted.

 

[DelaWhere_Arrow]

im probably gonna be "that guy" dropping in when this has probably been answered pages back but - are the Sirius kits the best way to get into this? Or is it OK to get inserts and different grain field points and test with the arrows I have? variable left out here being spine - all my Eastons are 300. not trying to cheap out, just askin.

are the Eastons manufactured in the last 3-4 years? If so, you’re not cheaping out at all. I’m no Levi Morgan or Chris Brackett and certainly no PJ Reilly but you can’t get a better carbon shaft than Easton IMO because their AccuCarbon/Match-Grade extrusion process eliminates the need to adjust for dynamic spine. There is no “weak spine” on an Easton carbon shaft from the last few years. You can pretty much ignore bare shaft tuning and nock tuning with an AccuCarbon shaft. My flight on Eastons only improves with a broadhead on the front and I can almost fletch them haphazardly and still shoot 2” groups at 20 yds.

 

[mschultz373]

Thanks for all the responses guy.

I'm shooting Easton 300 spine w/ 100gr broadheads. I think total weight is 424gr, then. No inserts, nothing fancy.

Bow is 60lbs @ 30.5" draw.

None of my Eastons are cut and at my draw length I assume a full 32" arrow is basically required unless I wanna shoot my hand.

I appreciate everyone's help. This is my first season bow-hunting and I never shot archery before it either. (obviously I did before season for 2 months...) Wasn't raised on it or anything. I basically trusted what the outfitter recommended, which I think is good and fine but I want to learn more to be self-sufficient and knowledgable.

 

[jsh909]

Thanks for all the responses guy.

I'm shooting Easton 300 spine w/ 100gr broadheads. I think total weight is 424gr, then. No inserts, nothing fancy.

Bow is 60lbs @ 30.5" draw.

None of my Eastons are cut and at my draw length I assume a full 32" arrow is basically required unless I wanna shoot my hand.

I appreciate everyone's help. This is my first season bow-hunting and I never shot archery before it either. (obviously I did before season for 2 months...) Wasn't raised on it or anything. I basically trusted what the outfitter recommended, which I think is good and fine but I want to learn more to be self-sufficient and knowledgable.

You can definitely and safely go shorter than 32 if you wish.

There is a reason Easton Axis are the number 1 selling arrow in the US. Any "custom" builds I do for customers start with an Axis unless they want a lighter arrow. I am almost exclusively dealing in Easton at this point. I do victory now as well for a little bit of variety, but always point people towards Easton for hunting arrows. Victory has a wonderful target line though

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Thanks for all the responses guy.

I'm shooting Easton 300 spine w/ 100gr broadheads. I think total weight is 424gr, then. No inserts, nothing fancy.

Bow is 60lbs @ 30.5" draw.

None of my Eastons are cut and at my draw length I assume a full 32" arrow is basically required unless I wanna shoot my hand.

I appreciate everyone's help. This is my first season bow-hunting and I never shot archery before it either. (obviously I did before season for 2 months...) Wasn't raised on it or anything. I basically trusted what the outfitter recommended, which I think is good and fine but I want to learn more to be self-sufficient and knowledgable.

In that case, the first thing I would do is get a decent but not too costly set of field points from 150 to about 300 grains and start screwing them on and see how they shoot. You might find all things being equal that you can shoot a broadhead in the 250 grain range without changing anything else. That would put you up in the 575 range and boost your FOC. I'm shooting 580 grains this year out of both my 60 and 44 pound draw weight Mathews Heli M bows. The buck below was taken at about 17 yards with a quartering to shot through the onside scapula out behind the leg on the off side with my 44 pound bow last month. He went about 35 yards and tipped over. Broadhead was a scary sharp Grizzly 155 grain single bevel on a 100 grain steel adapter.

 

[Bowtie747]

Any information on turkey hunting with single bevel? I can’t see where it would hurt but Ik a lot of people say big cut as possible with turkeys.

 

[krub6b]

Any information on turkey hunting with single bevel? I can’t see where it would hurt but Ik a lot of people say big cut as possible with turkeys.

I saw a podcast clip where a single bevel user was using front deploying three blades with the hope that it would lodge in the turkey and slow it down. They were also advocating for aiming at the copper part of the wing on quartering away shots, looking to pin the wing down and make it very difficult for the bird to run off.

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

Any information on turkey hunting with single bevel? I can’t see where it would hurt but Ik a lot of people say big cut as possible with turkeys.

Guaranteed pass through every time

It works just fine but ends up being way over kill and you won’t find your arrow.I prefer bleeders when hunting turkey but single bevel for all other game

 

[Bowtie747]

@Fl Canopy Stalker @krub6b

Thanks gents! I was just being cheap for whatever dumb reason. I’ll switch to expandable because that’s all everyone seems to recommend.

 

[raisins]

@Fl Canopy Stalker @krub6b

Thanks gents! I was just being cheap for whatever dumb reason. I’ll switch to expandable because that’s all everyone seems to recommend.

Zwickey if I recall makes a spring arm thing that is like a judo but goes behind fixed heads, it is to hinder penetration on small game and turkeys. It would add weight though to the front of the arrow. Personally, I would just buy some cheap, big cut expandables and be done with it. Consider the head disposable and like $5 per bird.

 

[raisins]

Zwickey if I recall makes a spring arm thing that is like a judo but goes behind fixed heads, it is to hinder penetration on small game and turkeys. It would add weight though to the front of the arrow. Personally, I would just buy some cheap, big cut expandables and be done with it. Consider the head disposable and like $5 per bird.

Zwickey Scorpios Broadhead Stoppers

Check out the deal on Zwickey Scorpios Broadhead Stoppers at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

 

[kbetts]

Turkey bones are no joke. Every one I've shot with an arrow, it stayed in the bird....but I've only used trad equipment.

A small washer will reduce penetration as well. I have some small jagged little things that were made to go behind a point specifically for this. Can't remember where I got them.

 

[BTaylor]

10 pack Turkey broadheads

 

[Blacksmith]

10 pack Turkey broadheads

View attachment 100794

How You Gonna Get Those To Fly Right??

 

[BTaylor]

How You Gonna Get Those To Fly Right??

Put the bead, I mean sight pin, on the head and squeeze the trigger. My turkey bow has a good bit of hand and shoulder shock but it works really well. It has padded sling, I mean string so it's easy to carry. And dont worry about unslinging, I mean unstringing it. After nearly 40 years, it still shoots like it did when it was new.

 

[Lowg08]

Well fellas I’ve been tinkering again. I wasn’t happy with my arrow trajectory from my heavy 578gr arrow. So back to the drawing board I went. I have ended up with a 430gr arrow, 150gr of that is up front. 18% FOC and 282 fps. Easily tuned to the bow and my vertical gap has really closed down. I believe it may be a great arrow for everything’s

 

[mschultz373]

checking back in as I get serious on sorting this all out..
Easton 6.5 300 spines, 31" (uncut basically); 60# @ 30.5" DL.
Seems like, per the calculators online, the heaviest I can go and hit 250fps is 475gr. For my current arrows, that's a simple 75gr additional screw on adapter. I've shot a bit with those and while I haven't changed my sight yet for them, they seem to fly good.

I could alternatively increase my # to 65 and then shoot an even 500gr arrow @ 250fps. 60# is no problem for me currently.

BUT then I thought -well, if I cut my arrows shorter, that means the overall weight is lower (and FOC higher), which then means... it flies faster, which means I can add more weight to it? Or am I tripping?

 

[woodsdog2]

checking back in as I get serious on sorting this all out..
Easton 6.5 300 spines, 31" (uncut basically); 60# @ 30.5" DL.
Seems like, per the calculators online, the heaviest I can go and hit 250fps is 475gr. For my current arrows, that's a simple 75gr additional screw on adapter. I've shot a bit with those and while I haven't changed my sight yet for them, they seem to fly good.

I could alternatively increase my # to 65 and then shoot an even 500gr arrow @ 250fps. 60# is no problem for me currently.

BUT then I thought -well, if I cut my arrows shorter, that means the overall weight is lower (and FOC higher), which then means... it flies faster, which means I can add more weight to it? Or am I tripping?

Two things to consider immediately come to mind. Firstly, if you keep cutting be sure you’re happy with the broadhead you’ve chosen. Some larger and heavier heads require a longer shaft so you’re not drawing it dangerously close to your bow hand. Second, the arrow may become lighter but it will also become stiffer. Be sure you have a spine that gives you some margin of error so it’ll tune properly for you.

 

[boyne bowhunter]

I agree with what @woodsdog2 posted above but will also point out that it seems like you don't have a lot of room to move with the arrow if you're drawing 30.5 inches. The most you could shorten your arrow is 1/2 inch for a loss of only 4.25grns (9.5grns/in). If you add that weight back into insert/broadhead you gain a slight, although maybe insignificant, increase in FOC but your end arrow speed will be the same.

Arrow speed from bow setup/arrow combinations is mostly dependent on arrow weight. Each bow's stored potential energy is transferred into kinetic energy (with some losses due to vibration (noise)/friction/etc.). Regardless of the bow setup's potential energy the kinetic energy is a function of the mass and velocity of the arrow. Since you're not changing your bow's settings its Potential Energy isn't changing significantly and the speed of the arrow from it will be almost completely dependent on your arrow's total mass, not length.

You can get more potential energy, and therefore more speed for all arrow masses, by increasing your poundage and/or draw length. Of course that comes at other costs in a real world hunting situation.

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

checking back in as I get serious on sorting this all out..
Easton 6.5 300 spines, 31" (uncut basically); 60# @ 30.5" DL.
Seems like, per the calculators online, the heaviest I can go and hit 250fps is 475gr. For my current arrows, that's a simple 75gr additional screw on adapter. I've shot a bit with those and while I haven't changed my sight yet for them, they seem to fly good.

I could alternatively increase my # to 65 and then shoot an even 500gr arrow @ 250fps. 60# is no problem for me currently.

BUT then I thought -well, if I cut my arrows shorter, that means the overall weight is lower (and FOC higher), which then means... it flies faster, which means I can add more weight to it? Or am I tripping?

The arrow speed won’t be nearly as important as making sure that your arrow isn’t underspined. I personally would rather go to a heavier arrow/stiffer spine and get a broadhead/insert that flies better, than hit higher speeds. My bear species would only fling my heavy arrows at 229 FPS but it flew way better than the same heavy arrows did on my Hoyt being flung in the 260’s….