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2 under?

Never heard of it but I’m still pretty green. My 3rd finger doesn’t really do much anyway so I say if it works, it works.
 
I knew a guy 20 years ago that did it. He was a good shot and always said he got a better release with two.

The third finger is really just there to take some of the pressure off your middle finger.
 
its not a taught method per se, but people have managed to use 2 finger split, 2 under or what ever usable digits they have to pull with. Unless you're talking about really high draw weights it shouldn't matter too much as long as you have the strength to hold tension long enough for a sight picture then a clean release. There are some considerations to how the limbs are tillered, but in most cases this can be compensated by moving the nock point up or down a little depending on how the arrow is reacting off the shelf.
 
GCTerpfan said:
that’s a problem I struggle with also. I actually relax my ring finger after I come to full draw because I cant get myself to stop using too much pressure during the draw. Not ideal but it works for me.
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I have been doing the same thing for years. I draw using 3 fingers and when I anchor I relax the third finger. I can see the arrow move slightly in my peripheral vision. It works.
 
If the tiller is set for split finger, it won’t shoot “correctly“ 2 under. It’ll be fine but it’s designed to be quiet and smooth when shot the right way. Tiller 3U is different, and when you deviate you just need to shoot a different nock point to get the arrow to fly. It’s fine, just not ideal. 2U just changes how the timing of the limbs release, as do all of these variations
 
overspined said:
If the tiller is set for split finger, it won’t shoot “correctly“ 2 under. It’ll be fine but it’s designed to be quiet and smooth when shot the right way. Tiller 3U is different, and when you deviate you just need to shoot a different nock point to get the arrow to fly. It’s fine, just not ideal. 2U just changes how the timing of the limbs release, as do all of these variations
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I’ve tried 2U but I have more power to reach full draw with 3U.
Tiller was also designed in my custom bows for 3U…Wonder if 2U under would change the bowyers designing? I don’t think it would. hmmmm
 
If the bow is made for 3U, and you shoot 2U, you’re essentially changing the length of the bottom limb. So the nock point will be different
 
overspined said:
If the bow is made for 3U, and you shoot 2U, you’re essentially changing the length of the bottom limb. So the nock point will be different
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This is really the only noticeable difference. I’ve shot bows tillered everywhere 1/8” positive to even, both split and 3 under. The only noticeable difference was a slight nock point change. I know the school of thought used to be positive tiller for split and even for three under but I’ve heard several bowyers more recently say they quit worrying about it and tiller all of their bows the same now.
 
Yeah I tend to tiller for split and 3U shooters will just adjust, Because shooting split off a 3U tiller bow isn’t my favorite
 
Split, one up-one down. ring finger is just hanging out.
 
Red Beard said:
Is 2 under a thing? Just had the thought this afternoon to drop using my ring finger in a regular 3 under claw. Shot 4 rounds of 3 arrows each and couldn't believe the results. Arrows closer than they've ever been. All but one were within an 1" of each other!
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Yep, people draw split finger and drop the top finger at full draw or just put index and middle under the string. It would likely help someone shoot a factory bow (that are usually tillered for split finger) better than 3 under. I always shot 3 under because my recurves are all ILf and I was able to adjust tiller to my liking/arrow tuning. 3 fingers is great because it is easier on the joints than 2 under and promotes a more relaxed hand that gives a better release. This is also why I take a very deep hook on the string. With slo mo video, my hand goes sback and is very quiet at the release.

I wouldn't shoot 2 fingers with a heavy bow and an aging body as you might be inviting hand injuries.
 
My buddy is missing his index finger, shoots 2U because he has to, and I don’t see a benefit in any way. I can guarantee a bow tillered split correctly will shoot better, smoother, and quieter if shot split. Everything but accuracy becomes is worse when you deviate. 3U/2U is a noisier shot, it just is. Also, there’s a method I messed with using a strap simulating 2U, I was trying to help a buddy out with. It didn’t tune well. Just my experiences I’m very aware of how accurate folks can be 3U. I make laminated longbows and so I have been able to mess with the tiller, split, 3U and all quite a bit. But honestly each shooter should do what they do best and go from there.
 
overspined said:
My buddy is missing his index finger, shoots 2U because he has to, and I don’t see a benefit in any way. I can guarantee a bow tillered split correctly will shoot better, smoother, and quieter if shot split. Everything but accuracy becomes is worse when you deviate. 3U/2U is a noisier shot, it just is. Also, there’s a method I messed with using a strap simulating 2U, I was trying to help a buddy out with. It didn’t tune well. Just my experiences I’m very aware of how accurate folks can be 3U. I make laminated longbows and so I have been able to mess with the tiller, split, 3U and all quite a bit. But honestly each shooter should do what they do best and go from there.
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yeah, i shoot 3 under (when i sit down the compound) because i can't shoot with a high anchor due to face shape, etc.....so 3 under is my only option to get the arrow closer to my eye and decrease my gaps
 
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