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3 Decades at The End of My Rope

Mike Curtis

Active Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Messages
143
I have been in the saddle probably as long as anyone so I thought I would share some things I have learned.

You can reinvent the wheel but you have to keep it round. I get a kick out of the effort spent to make a saddle so complicated. No stand will ever be completely comfortable for long hours. Some things you just have to put up with.

For me, comfort comes from having my tether centered for equal weight distribution. That may not be the center of the tree. The height of my tether is very important. Always start as high a you can reach. For long sits I am a leaner for the first few hours. I slide my prusset down a half inch at a time as the day goes on. I rarely go to a full sitting position as the deer tend to spot me more than when leaning. Pushing the prusset up is tough. I wrap the tag end of my tether several times just above my carabineer. It's a good head rest and I have had some pretty good knaps in the tree.

A good platform for me is the top of my LW sticks and 2 EZY steps that I have modified. The washers make all the difference

I try to always do the same thing the same way. Once I reach my platform and connect my tether, I screw in a bow hook just below the tether before I attempt to sit back. I don't want the rope to slip and mess up my setup. An inch to low can make for an uncomfortable hunt.
Cover is more important than elevation. I hunt the first cover I come to and prefer a limb or 2 below. It gets tougher as the season goes on. In this set up I had a tree at my back that I rested against all morning with another to my right. I love a 3 tree set. I took a doe at 12 yards this day though I was only 10 feet up.

I have tried the Trophyline, I do like the system but prefer my solid setup for long sits. I cut the legs out of my Trophyline as they served no purpose and always rubbed my legs. It does provide insulation for the lower back on cold days.
I tried the TreeSuite also. A good plan but the manufacture had to have searched the world over to find such stiff noisy material .
I used the Anderson a few times. I still have it somewhere.
I have used rope/ons , strap/ons , the woodpecker/bolts. I will put up with the weight of the LW sticks for the safe no hassle quick climb.
I prefer a loop as apposed to the bridge. I took a shot straight down once in a Trophyline. It slipped so far to my left, I nearly didn't get back up.
I prefer to set up with my expected shot slightly behind my left shoulder. I have better accuracy there.
I am not usually able to travel 360 from my setups as most times I will have cover to my right. Just do your scouting.
For close shots be sure and lean into the shot .
Always have a pair of snips to trim up those little limbs that scrap your back and run off your deer.
Good Hunting,
Onehair
 
Those washers are slick, such a simple solution.


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I am new here. Just joined because I really want yo try saddle hunting of some kind next season. What is the purpose of the washers on the steps? I am assuming this would make them more comfortable to stand on?

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I am new here. Just joined because I really want yo try saddle hunting of some kind next season. What is the purpose of the washers on the steps? I am assuming this would make them more comfortable to stand on?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bingo! More surface area to stand on.
 
Standing on steps for long hours can get hard on the feet. The washers give you 3 times the surface and makes for a lot more comfortable stand without having to go to some kind of platform. Even a soft soled boot is tolerable with this improvement.
 
One more thought on screw in steps. They should always be screwed in far enough so the the heal of the step is against the tree. That mostly keeps you from bending the tips. I have found that that is not always possible so I cut a small limb 3 inches or so in length and wedge under the heal of my steps.
 
I used to tie a high tether as well. I've since switched to a forehead/eye height and find it noticeably more comfortable. You may want to give it a shot.

Also, I know you've been doing this for 30 years, but you may want to look at replacing your prussic knot with a Ropeman 1. It's way more user friendly.

Thanks for the post.
 
Since I found this site a couple weeks ago , I realize I know nothing about ropes and climbing gear.
Where would I find that info.
Thanks
 
One more thought on screw in steps. They should always be screwed in far enough so the the heal of the step is against the tree. That mostly keeps you from bending the tips. I have found that that is not always possible so I cut a small limb 3 inches or so in length and wedge under the heal of my steps.
x2. I try to reinforce this to anyone who will listen. I've heard too many stories of steps breaking on people and I know it is because they were in incorrectly. I can't tell you how many times I've found other people's steps in trees with huge gaps between the tree and the base.

Since I found this site a couple weeks ago , I realize I know nothing about ropes and climbing gear.
Where would I find that info.
Thanks
The best way would be to ask specific questions or spend lots of time scouring the site because the info is spread all over lol.

I have spent a lot of time on arborist and rock climbing sites to find most of what I have learnt. I try to abide by most of their rules because although we are doing things much differently than many of them, we have no rules or regs guiding us. If I veer off course on something it is because I've done a lot of testing with it and I consider it safe for my personal use. I never recommend to anyone else to ignore manufacturers specs.

The ropeman 1 is the preferred climbing ascender used on our tether and lineman's belt. It is the same idea as a prussic, but it is mechanical, can be operated with one hand and is easier to use. http://www.wildcountry.com/en/ropeman-1

The ropeman 1 is only rated down to 10mm rope. Most people are using it with either 11 mm yale bandit, or this new samson predator rope.
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1901
http://www.wesspur.com/items/pr15.html

I tie a figure 8 on a bight for my loop at the top of the rope
image011.jpg

and a stopper knot at the bottom
stevedore_stopper_knot.jpg
 
I will defiantly check that out. When younger and bullet proof I never considered falling. I laugh now when I think about holding my tether by my teeth while I hooked up with no other safety belt. At 62 I don't expect much of a bounce if I fall.
Thanks for the info
 
I will defiantly check that out. When younger and bullet proof I never considered falling. I laugh now when I think about holding my tether by my teeth while I hooked up with no other safety belt. At 62 I don't expect much of a bounce if I fall.
Thanks for the info
I'm just over half your age and I think back to the things I did when I was a kid and my dad and I were building and setting up stands. We have certainly come a long way!
 
Can't argue that some of the things I see guys doing on this forum make hunting much more difficult than it has to be lol.

I have continually refined my setup over the last few years.

I like to walk in and out of the woods with only what I need to get the job done.

So long as I am hunting private land I can walk in with just my bow and my aerohunter - it doesn't get any simpler than that.

I have lonewolf sticks as well, but use them sparingly - last year i never used them at all. But they too exemplify simplicity in design.

Although you are probably well adjusted to your prussic knot I think others are right to recommend the ropeman1. It is such a dramatic improvement over fussing with friction knots you will wonder why you waited so long. All other mods are purely based on your preference and/or hunt style.
 
I have been in the saddle probably as long as anyone so I thought I would share some things I have learned.

You can reinvent the wheel but you have to keep it round. I get a kick out of the effort spent to make a saddle so complicated. No stand will ever be completely comfortable for long hours. Some things you just have to put up with.

For me, comfort comes from having my tether centered for equal weight distribution. That may not be the center of the tree. The height of my tether is very important. Always start as high a you can reach. For long sits I am a leaner for the first few hours. I slide my prusset down a half inch at a time as the day goes on. I rarely go to a full sitting position as the deer tend to spot me more than when leaning. Pushing the prusset up is tough. I wrap the tag end of my tether several times just above my carabineer. It's a good head rest and I have had some pretty good knaps in the tree.

A good platform for me is the top of my LW sticks and 2 EZY steps that I have modified. The washers make all the difference

I try to always do the same thing the same way. Once I reach my platform and connect my tether, I screw in a bow hook just below the tether before I attempt to sit back. I don't want the rope to slip and mess up my setup. An inch to low can make for an uncomfortable hunt.
Cover is more important than elevation. I hunt the first cover I come to and prefer a limb or 2 below. It gets tougher as the season goes on. In this set up I had a tree at my back that I rested against all morning with another to my right. I love a 3 tree set. I took a doe at 12 yards this day though I was only 10 feet up.

I have tried the Trophyline, I do like the system but prefer my solid setup for long sits. I cut the legs out of my Trophyline as they served no purpose and always rubbed my legs. It does provide insulation for the lower back on cold days.
I tried the TreeSuite also. A good plan but the manufacture had to have searched the world over to find such stiff noisy material .
I used the Anderson a few times. I still have it somewhere.
I have used rope/ons , strap/ons , the woodpecker/bolts. I will put up with the weight of the LW sticks for the safe no hassle quick climb.
I prefer a loop as apposed to the bridge. I took a shot straight down once in a Trophyline. It slipped so far to my left, I nearly didn't get back up.
I prefer to set up with my expected shot slightly behind my left shoulder. I have better accuracy there.
I am not usually able to travel 360 from my setups as most times I will have cover to my right. Just do your scouting.
For close shots be sure and lean into the shot .
Always have a pair of snips to trim up those little limbs that scrap your back and run off your deer.
Good Hunting,
Onehair

Thanks for the loop idea vs just a bridge , it makes perfect sense. This will be my first year saddle hunting ... I need to find out as much as I can.


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Squirrels sure love my Lone Wolf sticks. If I leave them up for more than a few days, I have to replace a bursa button and some times a strap. Hateful little devils.
 
I didn't know versa buttons were made with plastic...

Seems dangerous, but the folks at lone wolf obviously know what they're doing...
 
I didn't know versa buttons were made with plastic...

Seems dangerous, but the folks at lone wolf obviously know what they're doing...
The versa button isn't weight bearing. It simply keeps the rope/strap in the right place. The bolt behind the versa button is doing all the work.
 
The versa button isn't weight bearing. It simply keeps the rope/strap in the right place. The bolt behind the versa button is doing all the work.

True, but with rope mod it has to have decent pressure on it. Squeezing the two sections between the stick, and the button...

Never heard of it failing so I'm sure it's plenty safe...
 
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