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Adding short bridge to phantom

Outdoorsman33

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I’m wanting to make my own short bridge for SRT climbing for my phantom. I’ve never messed with making my own bridge looking for tips on how some of your guys are doing it and what material to use. I’d like to make it easy attach and detach so I can remove it once tied into my adjustable bridge at hunting height.
 

KRN

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Feb 18, 2018
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I’m wanting to make my own short bridge for SRT climbing for my phantom. I’ve never messed with making my own bridge looking for tips on how some of your guys are doing it and what material to use. I’d like to make it easy attach and detach so I can remove it once tied into my adjustable bridge at hunting height.
NY saddle hunters have a video on it


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

five

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But I thought the phantom came with the utilibridge, so you could adjust it whatever length you want.
 

Outdoorsman33

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But I thought the phantom came with the utilibridge, so you could adjust it whatever length you want.
It does but for me when I shorten it and climb with my srt the Prusik gets so tight you can’t hardly free it up. For me to free it up I got to take all weight off it and fight it for a minute to get it freed back up. In doing this there’s a point where I’m not connected at all during that transition. Plus while climbing yesterday with it one of the comfort channel balls came out of it and I’ve lost it.
 

Outdoorsman33

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Would it be safe to attach my short bridge to my lineman loops instead of my bridge loops? That my I don’t mess up the comfort channel balls again.
 

five

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I had planned to make a utilibridge for my jx3 for SRT purposes. I might need to re-think that with this news. Thanks for the info.
 

bj139

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Climbing sling looped back and forth to make as short as you want.

 

Outdoorsman33

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I’ve got some 3/16 Amstel I ordered more of than what I need. I wonder if you could make an endless loop sling out of it and it be safe enough to use. I just don’t know the load weight it could take.
 

bj139

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Did you just girth hitch it to one side and biner to the other ? And what size sling is that?
Second photo shows girth hitch on one side and carabiner on other. It is a 24" sling (60cm).
I am currently using this config for redundancy. Two climbing slings, one from each side.
 

Outdoorsman33

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Second photo shows girth hitch on one side and carabiner on other. It is a 24" sling (60cm).
I am currently using this config for redundancy. Two climbing slings, one from each side.
I see you got that lifeguard for srt are you backing it up with a hollow block at all?
 

bj139

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I see you got that lifeguard for srt are you backing it up with a hollow block at all?
No. I attach my ascender with a sling to my bridges. If the Safeguard slips the ascender will catch me. I usually keep it all attached in the tree, up and down. I never had a mechanical belay device slip.
 

Outdoorsman33

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No. I attach my ascender with a sling to my bridges. If the Safeguard slips the ascender will catch me. I usually keep it all attached in the tree, up and down. I never had a mechanical belay device slip.
Do you got any photos on how your rope and ascender set up is when you are ready to ascend the tree?
 

Outdoorsman33

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This is as close as I have to what you ask.

That pulley carabiner is the key that’s what I was wondering about. Currently my I’m running my rope into the lifeguard back up to my hand ascender through a carabiner and back down to my hand. But that pulley carabiner is what you look to be running yours through. When I ran mine there the biner to hook in my hand ascender I was having the ropes binding against each other and wasn’t able to move so I had to hook my biner to the bottom of my hand ascender instead of the top like you have yours.
 

bj139

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I try to stand up on my foot loop and then just pull the slack in with my left hand. If I forget to use my leg and just pull up my weight with my arms, climbing is much more difficult. I tried a standard carabiner, it must be an oval type to work well and it worked fine since I was only pulling in slack when I am climbing with my leg. I got the Petzl Rollclip with a package SRT buy from a member here. I would not spend the $40 cost for it otherwise.
Edit: forgot to say, when hanging from the rope, move your foot back so your leg strap is between your legs and pull the ascender close to your body. This makes your body more vertical and easier to push down with your leg. If you are pushing sideways with your leg, the only way to climb is to pull up with your arms. Vertical climbing is easy. Horizontal climbing is not. Only the downward push of your leg will move you directly up.
 
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Outdoorsman33

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Dec 4, 2019
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Yea I’m using EWO srt deluxe kit with the mad rock binders they work well and smooth. I’m trying to get a open spot on my ascender so I can attack my sterling hollow block prusik to it with out having to run two ropes through one biner and cause unneeded rope friction. I know it a bunch of people use the srt setup without any back up but I’d like to add as much safety as I can. I’ve learned fat people and gravity are not good friends.
 

bj139

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Yea I’m using EWO srt deluxe kit with the mad rock binders they work well and smooth. I’m trying to get a open spot on my ascender so I can attack my sterling hollow block prusik to it with out having to run two ropes through one biner and cause unneeded rope friction. I know it a bunch of people use the srt setup without any back up but I’d like to add as much safety as I can. I’ve learned fat people and gravity are not good friends.
I think the Prusik adds more complexity. Having 2 attachment points each of which will support you is great redundancy. A third is just usually more troublesome without providing any more safety. Complexity, and having to manage more devices can make it less safe, IMHO.
 
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