Adjustable rope bridge

[tmattson]

What is the utility cord?
Also, hunters bend mainly due to ease of un-doing? What other knot would suffice?

 

[John RB]

What is the utility cord?
Also, hunters bend mainly due to ease of un-doing? What other knot would suffice?

I have tied this bridge with many different cords. 6 to 8 mm. PMI, Sterling and Black Diamond to name a few brands. I spent 6 months learning and researching and testing bends before settling on Hunters/Riggers bend as my preference for most applications. A double or triple fisherman's knot is the gold standard and a bit stronger ... but the inability to untie and adjust sizes outweighs a small strength advantage we don't actually need. I have made only a few knot tying vids and this was one of em.

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[Brocky]

While playing, uh I mean researching the Blake’s, I found that tuckimg the tail as shown made the hitch slide easier.

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

While playing, uh I mean researching the Blake’s, I found that tuckimg the tail as shown made the hitch slide easier.
View attachment 51281

Does that effect the reliable grab though since it’s under the weight loading leg? I might have to try that out. Personally I’ve never had an issue with getting the Blake’s to slide or grip nicely as long as it is properly dressed, but I am always down to try new things. Thanks @Brocky

 

[tmattson]

I have tied this bridge with many different cords. 6 to 8 mm. PMI, Sterling and Black Diamond to name a few brands. I spent 6 months learning and researching and testing bends before settling on Hunters/Riggers bend as my preference for most applications. A double or triple fisherman's knot is the gold standard and a bit stronger ... but the inability to untie and adjust sizes outweighs a small strength advantage we don't actually need. I have made only a few knot tying vids and this was one of em.

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Might be a dumb question, what about a figure-8 (eats up excess rope, lot bulkier)?

 

[John RB]

Might be a dumb question, what about a figure-8 (eats up excess rope, lot bulkier)?

I believe Figure 8 bend is strong enough for us but not as easy to untie. ZEPPELIN bend is actually stronger than Hunters bend, but in my testing, it's not as STABLE, meaning that it could work itself loose. I have Ashley's Book of Knots and tied literally everything i can find. I am not saying that Hunters is the STRONGEST bend. But with the right rigging, we can't actually generate the kinds of forces necessary to compromise it. And adjusting and removing and replacing stuff is a requirement for me.

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[wdarby]

Here's mine with Resc Tech & Beal Kevlar Cordlette from EWO. I really like the adjustability for 1-sticking & rappelling.
I basically borrowed this from the H2 bridge video - which originally came with my saddle.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train

 

[John RB]

Here's mine with Resc Tech & Beal Kevlar Cordlette from EWO. I really like the adjustability for 1-sticking & rappelling.
I basically borrowed this from the H2 bridge video - which originally came with my saddle.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train

The only thing that concerns me about this is that the prusik on the adjustable part of the bridge which grips the RescTech is only a 2 wrap prusik. Have you wet tested that? Meaning soaked it in water and then hammered it with a bouncy load? I wet test all my friction hitches and have never used anything less than a 3 turn Prusik. And for that application, I would not use a Prusik at all given that there are better friction hitches. We don't need it to hold in both directions and we don't need it to be adjusted under load (right?). I probably would use a Hedden knot for an adjustable bridge. It's rock solid, and not easily moved.

 

[Brocky]

Looks to be a Schwabish friction hitch

 

[Chrighton]

Look like he is trying to do a scwabisch, but I would agree I would have another wrap. 3 over 2 schwabish at a minimum. That's just me.

 

[wdarby]

Have you wet tested that? Meaning soaked it in water and then hammered it with a bouncy load? I wet test all my friction hitches and have never used anything less than a 3 turn Prusik.

I had bounce tested it, but not soaked, so I did that today and it held up great. This is the same knot (schwabisch hitch, an asymmetric prusik) that I used for my tether with Oplux last year and had great performance. The schwabisch is also one directional. I find the Beal Cordlette grabs better than the Sterling TRC on 8mm ropes, perhaps due to the smaller diameter. Because of this, I use 3 turns on the top or it's difficult to move after placing a load. I adjust my bridge length between one-sticking/at height/rappelling, and this combination has worked best so far.

I appreciate the feedback. Customization is one of the great things about saddle hunting.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train