• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Amsteel Full Bury??

C

Cody Walker

New Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
26
Can someone explain to me how to go about doing a full bury on amsteel? Going to make my own USA full bury 1/8" Rope mod with prusik. SO one end will have a loop for the versabutton. I have an idea on how to do it but want to verify before I do it... TIA!
 
As far as how to do it, just do a lock Brummell then to be able to bury a piece the full length I steal some floral wire (a piece nearly twice the length you are making because you have to fold it half at the middle) from the wife and insert it all the way up to where I went to start the bury and just insert the tapered end you want to bury into the double over piece of wire and pull it all the way through and then milk it down. It’s very easy to do.
 
YouTube it, that's how I learned, watched a 5 minute video and then spent 30 minutes cursing at a piece of Amstel. But, it still does the job I gave it so I did something right.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
 
rswink said:
YouTube it, that's how I learned, watched a 5 minute video and then spent 30 minutes cursing at a piece of Amstel. But, it still does the job I gave it so I did something right.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
i couldnt find anything about full bury on youtube. I figured it was the same as a locked brumell but wanted to verify before i assumed..
 
full burys with thin amsteel is a bear, good luck, if figure out a secret let me know
 
raisins said:
full burys with thin amsteel is a bear, good luck, if figure out a secret let me know
Click to expand...
I don't know a secret, but it doesn't seem too difficult for me with 7/64 or 1/8. There are a couple things you can do to make it slightly easier...
1. Use new amsteel helps because it is easier to scrunch it up to accept the buried portion;
2. Keep something handy that can be used to widen the amsteel threads helps a bunch, especially getting the first inch or two into the bury, I use a knitting needle cut-off;
3. Wire fids are where it is at for me, a short fid gives me fits at times;
4. Don't be afraid to make it in short increments vs trying to bury the entire thing at once - the key to this is ensuring that when your 'bury' exits the length of amsteel you 'rebury' it at the exact same location (even a single thread can cause new cuss words to be created). When you have to open the hole to get your bury back into the rope use something to widen it slightly like a fid, knitting needle, swaged aluminum arrow end, pen cap, etc.
5. I haven't found a BAD time to stop what I am doing and scrunch up the portion of amsteel yet to receive its buried portion. Pushing a wire fid through new amsteel is easy; pushing/pulling the internal bury of new amsteel before you scrunch it up can make things difficult, especially the longer the bury is.

*in case it isn't common knowledge the term 'scrunch' is a doctrinal term when dealing with amsteel, or was that with Amstel? Ah, forget it...
 
This
aa31035e984c54acf92cd5087d171835.jpg
 
I trim half the strands back about an inch and a half on 1/8" stuff and it makes it much easier to bury.
 
I’m no mathematician, so if I make a bridge out of 1/4”, how small does the prussik have to be to grab? Calculator says .2 which is 1/5” thinking 7/64? Is 1/8” too big to grab the 1/4”?
 
bfriendly said:
I’m no mathematician, so if I make a bridge out of 1/4”, how small does the prussik have to be to grab? Calculator says .2 which is 1/5” thinking 7/64? Is 1/8” too big to grab the 1/4”?
Click to expand...
3/16"
 
MNMosquitoAssassin said:
I may have read somewhere that using amsteel as a prussic on an amsteel bridge is not a good idea...
Click to expand...
I read somewhere (PETA I believe it was) that shooting deer and hogs is inhumane too lol don’t believe all you read. The truth is that friction hitches work on the concept of friction (heat). Dyneema and spectra (the materials that make up amsteel) have a low melting point compared to other rope materials but they have a lower coefficient as well. Since amsteel is slick it doesn’t generate heat nearly as quickly as nylon or polyester does. Meaning it doesn’t get to melting temperature as easily from sliding. Also by burying the amsteel into itself you are basically creating a double braided rope which bites down on itself extremely well. So getting it to slide to generate heat after it has been weighted, is pretty difficult to begin with. When we did pull test of our amsteel bridge, the friction hitch didn’t even budge until around 4,500 lbs. Then it started to bite down and creep. At 6,000 lbs the hitch rolled and began deforming. At 7,600 lbs it finally slipped and melted into the other piece of amsteel. It never actually broke. After it melted and slipped it was still holding over 5,000 lbs without breaking. We did multiple drop tests with a 300 lbs dummy and the friction hitch (amsteel) slid less that 1/2” on a 1.5:1 fall.
The old arborist adage was with standard 12 strand dyneema that if you used it, it would slip and melt. With it spliced (double braided) it is not as big of a concern. Even still standard hollow 12 strand dyneema has done decently in a few tests done by researchers in the UK. I know some on here will try to disagree but I challenge them to produce videos where they have done actual break testing in an accredited lab showing how unsafe amsteel is.
 
bfriendly said:
I’m no mathematician, so if I make a bridge out of 1/4”, how small does the prussik have to be to grab? Calculator says .2 which is 1/5” thinking 7/64? Is 1/8” too big to grab the 1/4”?
Click to expand...
If you’re using 1/4”, use 3/16” if you are making a prusik loop. It’ll be strong and work really well if you splice and tie it properly.
 
I built a utilibridge for my sit drag saddle out of 1/4" (full bury) and made a 1/4" prussik that is essentially full burried and it works great. Hasn't slipped on me one time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top