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Anyone switch back to using a whisker biscuit?

Kmark77 said:
Whoops too many acronyms. Its a NAP (New Archery Products) Apache.

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From what I know that is a good rest. Hard to tell what could be going wrong without seeing it in person. Is it paper tuned?
 
CamoMan said:
From what I know that is a good rest. Hard to tell what could be going wrong without seeing it in person. Is it paper tuned?
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It was originally. Then I noticed it was shifting down as i shot. Took it back in and they adjusted it back but didnt re tune it.

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Kmark77 said:
It was originally. Then I noticed it was shifting down as i shot. Took it back in and they adjusted it back but didnt re tune it.

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I would paper tune it and then put some baby powder on your vanes and make sure you don't have contact during the shot. You have to be shooting bullet holes through paper to be consistent and if the rest was moved chances are that is not the case. So those are the first steps I would take.
 
If the rest is shifting after install you have issues. There should never be enough force on that rest to shift it down. And assuming it is torqued, my best guess would be that the it is tied into the cables incorrectly. I'd either go back to the WB (which can have its own inherent problems), fix myself or go to a different bow shop. I have drug my QAD through the swamp, up and down trees for seasons, multiple 3D courses, shooting out back, and just tossing in and out of truck and never had it shift. Install sounds off to me.
 
Yup. That thing should never budge if installed correctly. Drop always are more accurate then biscuits. Having a properly tuned bow that is driving pins through paper drastically increases the accuracy of any style rest. Ultimately though you need to be confident in your set up. Whatever type of gear you decide on it’s all about confidence. I would seriously consider finding a new bow tech to do your work or do the necessary research to be your own bow tech.
 
Jgetch said:
Yup. That thing should never budge if installed correctly. Drop always are more accurate then biscuits. Having a properly tuned bow that is driving pins through paper drastically increases the accuracy of any style rest. Ultimately though you need to be confident in your set up. Whatever type of gear you decide on it’s all about confidence. I would seriously consider finding a new bow tech to do your work or do the necessary research to be your own bow tech.
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Not trying to start an argument but why is the biscuit always said to be less accurate? Plenty of utube to prove otherwise
 
Weldabeast said:
Not trying to start an argument but why is the biscuit always said to be less accurate? Plenty of utube to prove otherwise
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I wouldn't say more accurate, but they can magnify errors in shooting. The 100% contact with the arrow, while awesome, can also influence the shot if there is torque, drop, etc. The rest is as accurate as the archer. I think many people look at the contact with fletching as causing an accuracy issue as well. Personally I have no proof it affects accuracy at all. I just prefer helical and that's a no-no with a WB.
 
I shoot a biscuit and I have notice a difference in grouping between 3degree helical blazers and straight fletch feathers....tighter grouping with 2 rayzor feathers but they are louder..
 
No chance of me ever switching back to a biscuit. You need to shoot whatever you are most accurate with though. For the animals sake.


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Is your drop away limb or cable driven? I went from a biscuit to a VT Gen 7 and saw quite an improvement in my accuracy especially past 40. The Gen 7 is a limb driven rest making it super easy to set up and tune. It is also a full containment but has much better clearance than some other drop aways. Otherwise there could be quite a few different things happening such as timing, tuning, correct spine stiffness...
 
Fall away rests are wonderful when everything works right.....most times they do! But,......my experience for me is ......if you mechanize something it can fail more than something that is not. Put it simply....I did have a fall away.....went to a biscuit after some issues. No issues with it....simple, no failure ....well almost no way to fail in hunting situations. I don't target shoot.....I hunt. Nuff said...LOL. Good hunting!
 
I had friend that was an engineer with CAP and he sent me a few WB’s back in the day. At that time I was all about archery. I shot a minimum of 60 arrows every day. Plenty of time I wouldn’t get home in time to shoot in the daylight so I would shoot using my truck headlights. Anyway, the WB didn’t give me the accuracy and precision I was after.

Fast forward to this past season (“CAP” will tell you how long ago that was....) and I finally switched to a WB, lol. I only shoot deer now, no more targets, so the arrow containment and simplicity of design the WB gives me vs my drop away is WAY more important to me.

I want my arrow in a softball sized area of deer destruction and the minute group expansion with the WB falls WELL within that criteria.
 
In defense of drop-aways, we can't really use "containment as an excuse to shoot a WB. Most rests intended for hunting purposes have full containment these days. Bottom line is that you can build your whole bow from top to bottom using this years keyword, and the deer don't care. All of it only matters if we put in the time to tune, and shoot.
 
Well I don’t change rests (or bows or much at all) very often and my drop away’s version of containment was a rubber whatchama**** that held the arrow in place. The least little bump caused the arrow to come UNcontained and led to said arrow bouncing off everything around that would cause noise.
 
JBDaddy said:
Contemplating a switch the other way: Have a whisker biscuit, trying to tune heavy arrows, and cannot get it straight but have run out of adjustment room.

I'm shooting bare shafts (sirius apollo, 300 spine, 28.75") with 200grains up front, and I get 4" nock right arrows in my target. I've slide the biscuit as far left as I can without improvement. Yesterday I worked on intentionally torquing the bow - rotating the riser to the left via grip and that straightened some of the arrows out a bit, but now they're hitting so far left that I don't think I can track my sight all the way over to compensate.

At this point I'm going to try sliding that sucker back to the right contrary to what I'm being told to do, to see if I'm being told wrong, my bow is just bizarro, I have unfixable torque issues, whatever. I just need to know the range of what's possible now, because doing what is supposed to work, isn't.

If you have a nice rest, I'll trade you a 2-week old CBE biscuit ;)
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Have you nock tuned your carbon shafts? I mean shoot through paper and keep rotating the nock on the shaft a quarter turn until you're shooting bullet holes.
 
woodsdog2 said:
Have you nock tuned your carbon shafts? I mean shoot through paper and keep rotating the nock on the shaft a quarter turn until you're shooting bullet holes.
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Yep, nock tuned all, but I always suspect they could be better.

I spent some time Saturday on this. I made a paper tuning stand (er hanger, actually) and spent time experimenting with just 1 arrow (200gr point, 100gr insert), all the ways I could anchor, torque, etc. I found that at 6 feet, I can get (near) bullet holes, and at 15 ft, near bullet holes, but at other distances the oscillation of the arrow (archers paradox) can make for some weird-@ss tears that are just not worth trying to sort out.

Now I have 200gr inserts on the way to match up with my 100gr points/magnus 2-blade broadheads, and I just have to get happy with accuracy with where they land - I'll never be completely satisfied with exactly how they get there.
 
I went through this painstakenly long process as well and thought I was having severe form issues until I kept rotating each nock until I shot bullet holes. Once I did that for ALL of the bare shafts, I then tweaked the arrow rest and nock height for any other slight tears to get a near perfect bullet hole through paper. About 7 yards or 21 feet is the distance you want to do this which will capture all of the possible paradox issues of the shaft.
 
Not yet but I want to. Have a WB on my backup bow (never got rid of my original bow once I bought a new one) and I love the thing. Got a Ripcord on the new to me PRIME. It's ok but I want to have a WB on both. Just too close to season opener to go mucking around with my primary bow now.
 
Sounds very frustrating. I shot a drop away for years with no issue. Heard stories from other archers with drop aways so I figured i'd remove the potential problem. I do feel the WB is slightly less accurate and a tad bit louder during the draw but for me 25 yards is about my farthest shot! And the noise from the draw has never spooked a deer. After 3 seasons with the WB I'm going to stick with it.




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