Anyone using this fletching jig that can tell me is there a way to adjust the length to where your fletching will start on the shaft? I use a bitzenburger and was looking at a mini max. I like how much of a helical you can create with it.
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Arizona ez fletch
- Thread starter jaberryhunter
- Start date
Used one for years. I'm lucky in that with my nock on, it is about perfect for me from the factory (1 and 3/8" from back of fletch to throat of nock).
You'd have to play with the nock or make your own spacer that goes in the base.
The farthest from the nock you can fletch would be if you remove the nock and allow the shaft to just slide down in, fletch and then put the nock back on. This would place the fletch towards the point an additional distance the that is the length of your nock. You could also put smaller spacers (like half nock length) in the base.
If you wanted the fletchings closer to the nock than they are when used normally, then you could remove the nock from the arrow and then put long removable spacers where the nock fits down in to push the shaft up where you want (maybe some die cut poker chips or something). With the spacer being longer than your nock.
There is no built in adjustment.
If you tried to get a minimax or a full length ez fletch and then put the vanes some distance up the arm (where they'd want to slide down) and then close them, I think you are in for a bad time. Also, be aware that the helical on the full length ez fletch is not as aggressive as it is for the smaller ones.
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I just seen some massive helical people have done with the mini max and aae max stealths and I wanted to try them out. I cant get a helical like that with my bitzenburger. I usually run my fletching an inch from end of carbon to start of fletching due to my beard. Thanks
I have a Mini but will be geting a Minimax for use with those same vanes.
The Mini puts Blazers 3/4" from end of carbon. So, you can easily get 1" consistently.
I just did an experiment, and if I removed the nock and fletched without it, then the vanes would be around 1.25" from the end of carbon (again this is with a Mini, and I'd bet a buck that the Minimax is same or very close). I didn't fletch one, just slide a bareshaft in and put my thumb about where the base of vane would hit and then pulled it out and measured with a tape.
All you'd have to do is make a 1/4" slice of dowel rod the same diameter as an arrow/fits in jig (or a piece of arrow shaft) and slide it down inside the Minimax. Then fletch without a nock. The way the jig works, this will work just fine as the tension of the arms aligns everything and the nock is just there to help indexing your vane to the nock. With modern, moveable nocks, this isn't an issue. Just install your nock after fletching and turn it how you'd like.
If this isn't clear, then watch a few youtube videos on the EZ fletch and think about what would happen if you fletched without a nock (or nock insert, etc) installed. I haven't done it, but I nearly 100% guarantee it will work based upon knowing this jig very well.
If you make a 1/4" dowel rod spacer, I would drill a little hole in it so you can fish it out with a wood screw or piece of wire later on.
Hopefully someone else with the jig will chime in and either support or improve/undercut my idea.
Unless you are a pro with a Bitz, the EZ fletch puts the fastest and most consistent nice helical I've seen. A lot of people don't like it because it is cheap plastic and is too easy. But it works great.
Be sure to rub a little wax on the arms to keep glue off them (release agent). Don't scrape glue off, soak the whole thing in acetone to remove glue. Only put the amount of glue you need. Gel glues work best because they don't run as much.
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Love my bitzenburger jig. Ive been using it for about 20yrs now. Just wish I could get a better helical out of it. I may give the mini max a try though. Thanks.
I've never had an issue of them sliding down I guess. I have to shimmy the vanes through the clamp pieces and the pressure after placing the cap on is enough to hold them in place. Are you fletching some tiny diameter arrows and the arrow is too loose in the jig or are your vanes loose in the clamp pieces?
Hey J, re-read what he's asking. I think you're answering different questions. He wants to move the fletchings further away from the nock than where they naturally land. He isn't asking about basic function. I tried to explain a way to do what he wants while using the EZ Fletch as designed. He's concerned about the fletching sliding down because he wants to pick a different area than at the bottom to set the vane in the slot (probably using the full sized EZ fletch....which doesn't do the tight helical anyways.....compared to the little guys).
I get it, I just move the vanes where I want them in the jig if I'm not going with the pre-set position. The pressure of the jig holds them in place and it only takes a few seconds for the glue to initially set. I just keep an eye on it for a few seconds so I know everything looks good.
I'm pretty sure it's the pro. I'd have to look at the packaging when I get home. I'm not able to put too much helical on a 2" vane like the op seems to be describing and at least no more than my bitzenburg with a helical clamp.
If he gets one of the long ones that can do over 3" vanes, then it isn't gonna give him the wicked spiral he wants.
Actually I dont have any of the ez fletch. Just a bitzenburger. Was wondering if you could place the vanes farther down the shaft with a ez fletch before I bought one.
Put the fletching where you want it then put a strip of scotch tape under it.