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Arrow Build. Vanes?

Weisman125

Weisman125

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Messages
55
Location
Nebraska
Looking for something to do in the off season so time to refletch some arrows. Thought about switching to heavy arrows but I have 2 dozen Axis 340s that I need to destroy first. I've used slick trick mag 125s for a few years and they've been phenomenal on critters. Right now I'm steering them with blazers but want to try something new. I do notice s little deviation from field point accuracy at longer ranges (40-60 years) even with a paper tuned setup. It hasn't been enough to be concerned with, but enough that I'd like to tighten it up. Gonna try some bare shaft tuning when it warms up for S&Gs.

Since I couldn't find much for recent comparison testing on vanes, I was wondering what others are using to steer fixed blade heads. Toying with trying heat vanes, probably in a 4 fletch. Any others try this combo with good results?
 
I always shoot at least 4” vanes and always use as much helical as i can put on the shaft.Never have flight issues with my broadheads.Properly tuned inserts,Good FOC,and of course a well tuned bow gets me very good results.I shoot 125gr Simmons broadheads
 
I wouldn't destroy the 340's. You'll be amazed at what they can stand. I'm shooting 68#s with a 29" draw with mine. Mine are victory arrows though. But I got 125 grain of brass inserts and 125 broadheads. They shoot amazing!
As far a vanes, if you shoot a drop away, try fob's out. I get amazing arrow flight with them, especially out at 50 yards. One thing to think of. Fletchings bend, flex wobble and distort at every shot. The fob won't do that, giving a more constant flight
fobarchery.com

FOB Archery

FOB Archery
fobarchery.com fobarchery.com
 
Just bought a mess of q2i fusion x-ii 2.1 inch and really like them. They use a different material at the base to help adhere better. I haven’t had one come off yet! I’m a fan!
 
I always use 4" feathers.
I do keep one arrow with vanes in my quiver for when it rains.
 
Mr Price said:
I wouldn't destroy the 340's. You'll be amazed at what they can stand. I'm shooting 68#s with a 29" draw with mine. Mine are victory arrows though. But I got 125 grain of brass inserts and 125 broadheads. They shoot amazing!
As far a vanes, if you shoot a drop away, try fob's out. I get amazing arrow flight with them, especially out at 50 yards. One thing to think of. Fletchings bend, flex wobble and distort at every shot. The fob won't do that, giving a more constant flight
fobarchery.com

FOB Archery

FOB Archery
fobarchery.com fobarchery.com
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I won't be destroying them on purpose. Meant critters and 3Ds. I've thought about FOBs but didn't think they were great for fix blade heads. I wish I would have throw in brass inserts to get more foc but too late now. Also worried about being underspined if I add more weight to these. I'm worried I'm underspined with my current setup even shooting 68# and a 29" arrow out of an Elite Hunter.
 
Weisman125 said:
I won't be destroying them on purpose. Meant critters and 3Ds. I've thought about FOBs but didn't think they were great for fix blade heads. I wish I would have throw in brass inserts to get more foc but too late now. Also worried about being underspined if I add more weight to these. I'm worried I'm underspined with my current setup even shooting 68# and a 29" arrow out of an Elite Hunter.
Click to expand...
Adding weight to the rear of your arrow will increase the spine.
 
Been using plastifletch max 23 vanes in a 4 fletch helical. They have been flying great. Love the 4 fletch config and also like the smaller profile of those vanes
 
Kurt said:
Adding weight to the rear of your arrow will increase the spine.
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It actually won't. Think about it like this. An arrow has "x" amount of spine. If you add weight to the front, it will weaken because of the resistance of that weight through the arrow. With the same setup, if you add weight to the rear, the force still is applied thru the arrow from front resistance. The added weight to the rear just lowers the foc. Hope that makes since. And I wasn't coming against what your saying, just trying to clarify.
 
Aae hybrid 26, same shape as the max stealth but don’t have to use the primer pen, or fusion q2i 3 inch both in a Arizona mini max have been good to me.
 
Mr Price said:
It actually won't. Think about it like this. An arrow has "x" amount of spine. If you add weight to the front, it will weaken because of the resistance of that weight through the arrow. With the same setup, if you add weight to the rear, the force still is applied thru the arrow from front resistance. The added weight to the rear just lowers the foc. Hope that makes since. And I wasn't coming against what your saying, just trying to clarify.
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The static spine won't change that's true. But adding weight to the arrows rear will increase the dynamic spine, thereby making the arrow act stiffer. It has to do with the increased weight of the arrow on the back not effecting the bend of the shaft. Ashbys tuning uefoc arrows video 2013 P&Y. about 16 min in.
 
Kurt said:
The static spine won't change that's true. But adding weight to the arrows rear will increase the dynamic spine, thereby making the arrow act stiffer. It has to do with the increased weight of the arrow on the back not effecting the bend of the shaft. Ashbys tuning uefoc arrows video 2013 P&Y. about 16 min in.
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I've been a engineer for over 25 years and there is one thing that had always been taught. And that's you NEVER trust another engineer or others advise when it can't be proven. By a engineer's standpoint, it's impossible to do as ashby is saying. I'm not saying all isn't true, but the rear weight isn't true. And that's easy to prove.
 
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If I go to a 4 fletch and lighted nocks and add roughly 25-30 grains to the rear, is there a way to add weight to the front without trying to replace inserts and still use my 125gr slick tricks? Thinking a sleeve or extension if there is such a thing. I won't be building heavy arrows with these 340s but want to offset the added rear weight and still keep a decent FOC.
 
Ethics has point weight washers but I don’t think you’ll be able to stack enough to offset the weight of the lighted nock to see an improvement on the FOC without having to change Point weight or insert weight. If your staying with axis shafts, you may look at vpa footers that would add more weight as well.
 
And iron will
www.ironwilloutfitters.com

Impact Collars

Broken arrows don't get the job done, so we engineered Impact Collars to protect your arrow shafts. Similar to a footer, these sleeves slide over the end of your arrow and provide a barrier of protection between the delicate carbon and broadhead. And because we don't do anything halfway, Impact...
www.ironwilloutfitters.com www.ironwilloutfitters.com
 
Weisman125 said:
If I go to a 4 fletch and lighted nocks and add roughly 25-30 grains to the rear, is there a way to add weight to the front without trying to replace inserts and still use my 125gr slick tricks? Thinking a sleeve or extension if there is such a thing. I won't be building heavy arrows with these 340s but want to offset the added rear weight and still keep a decent FOC.
Click to expand...
You can get 25 grain brass insert weights. They simply screw into the rear of the insert. I built a tool to add them without taking the insert out. Get a close hanger, weld a piece of all thread (I forgot the size). What I do, is put a small dab of super glue on the 25 grain added weight, then scew it into the insert. Wait a few min and then unscrew the tool out and reinsert the nock.
 
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