• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Arrow help

I shoot a 45# @28" DAS recurve 58" long.
My set up is Gold Tip 500 spine Hunter 30" (full length), 100 gr. Gold Tip insert, 250gr tip\VPA broad head, 610 gr total weight.
3 - 4" shield cut feathers, arrow slightly past center, off the shelf.
Don't handicap yourself with predetermined components, ie. inserts, tips, broadheads.
Let the arrow and bow combination tell you what is correct for true bare shaft arrow flight.
I made the mistake initially of wanting to use certain arrow components and it made the tuning process painfully longer than it needed to be.
This setup is used by others that i shoot with so it should be very close to what you need.
Good luck.
 
First time in 3 days that it hasn’t been 35° and pouring rain, 35° and 20 mph winds instead.....I’ll take it, lol.

Shot a bare shaft tonight just out of curiosity.....

3e2497081ce403d828bfdcc99b5357a9.jpg


350 spine full length* pile drivers with 300 gr points. The * is because these older Pile Drivers for some reason or other are just about a 1/4” shorter than my newer pile drivers.

Bottom line......I shot both arrows multiple times and the hit close each time and I never had to go dig one up out of the ground so I call tonight’s quick little session a success

P.S. damn it’s raw outside....I don’t see how you High Latitude guys do it, I really don’t.
 
I don’t know if that’s stiff. Vertical line for a right shoes just barely weak if you’re low right with the bare shaft
 
Tail right for a right handed shooter is stiff.
I agree. Group tuning would indicate a pretty closely tuned arrow. And we don’t know the angle of the shot.
Probably need to step back to longer distance and retest. I have found my 46# Maddog drawn to 28.25” shoots a 600 spine with 200 up front stiff. It is cut before center
 
I agree. Group tuning would indicate a pretty closely tuned arrow. And we don’t know the angle of the shot.
Probably need to step back to longer distance and retest. I have found my 46# Maddog drawn to 28.25” shoots a 600 spine with 200 up front stiff. It is cut before center

If those shots are taken from the same angle with consistent form, that is far from a tuned arrow, regardless of the group. I want arrow flight as perfect as I can get before I fletch an arrow. Those feathers are working overtime correcting the flight, in return losing more energy.
 
The bare shaft is definitely tail right. I’m nowhere close to doing any serious tuning, just getting started with a trad bow, but the fletched arrow is closest to the correct angle.
 
The target medium has an effect on the orientation of the nock as well. It's really hard to offer tuning input over the internet. Impact right of center, weak. Nock right, stiff. I shoot 400 spine arrows from a 48 pound bow though, so what do I know lol. 30.5 bop to nock throat, 350 up front. I had to build the shelf out to center to get that to fly. Just a reference for anyone reading. My draw is 29 and almost a half
 
If those shots are taken from the same angle with consistent form, that is far from a tuned arrow, regardless of the group. I want arrow flight as perfect as I can get before I fletch an arrow. Those feathers are working overtime correcting the flight, in return losing more energy.

Excellent assessment......I’ve been shooting trad for a week, cut me a little slack
 
I'd guess you will be suited to a 400 spine arrow once you get consistent. If this is your first week, then what I would do is fletch up some arrows and shoot! Give it a month or two to allow for your form to develop.

I do agree with AppalachianArcher that I want my bareshaft arrows flying perfect, but your fletch will also stiffen the arrow a tad, so you might find that an ever so slightly weak arrow tunes best for a fletched arrow with a broadhead.

I think you are better off shooting fletched arrows and getting groups at 20 yards. Once you are shooting consistent groups, then tune. I would get a 400 and 500 spine single shaft and shoot those bare however. Depending on the center cut of your riser you might be better off with a one or the other. I know will4554's bow is cut past center, allowing him to shoot a stiffer spine arrow when compared to my 46# bow that is cut nearly 1/4" before center and liking a 600 spine arrow
 
Excellent assessment......I’ve been shooting trad for a week, cut me a little slack

I wasn't taking any jabs at your shooting. Keep doing it. When I first got into traditional archery, I was shooting untuned arrows and learning as I went. Once I got decent at shooting I started really diving into arrow tuning and getting everything right. I'm sure we all do things a little differently to achieve the same results. Just remember to have fun during the process.
 
Oh I’m definitely going to have fun doing it. I’m just playing around right now searching for just enough reliable flight within components that I have on hand to allow me the confidence to then just go shoot. The form and consistency will come and then I can get serious about finding THE arrow setup.
 
Back
Top