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Arrow tuning woes

docost99

docost99

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
48
Location
Northern Wisconsin
I know there are a bunch of guys here that have followed the good ol' Ranch Fairy down the bareshaft tuning rabbit hole. I have had way too many penetration issues with a 375 grain total weight arrow, tipped with a flapper, to want to continue with that setup. Initially, I went that way because fixed heads wouldn't fly straight.
Now, I understand that if the arrow doesn't fly straight, and then I add wings on the front, it's still not going to fly straight. Which led me to bareshaft shooting.
I have GT XT Hunter 300 spine arrows and Black Eagle Carnivore 250 spine arrows. I'm shooting an Elite Energy 35 at 60 lbs with a 30" draw. I have multiples of every field point weight from 100 to 300 grains along with stock, 100 grain, and 200 grain inserts. Obsessive? I know....
Anyway, to my point. Every single arrow hits the target 30-40 degrees tail right. All weights. I've adjusted my grip, relaxed my hand. I moved the rest slightly left which made the tail worse and moved the impact left. I moved it slightly right and it didn't change the tail, but moved impact right.
Looking for Ideas.
Thanks!
 
I had to cable guard tune my right tears out. Check it out with a quick Google search as I can't remember which way it rotates.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
docost99 said:
I know there are a bunch of guys here that have followed the good ol' Ranch Fairy down the bareshaft tuning rabbit hole. I have had way too many penetration issues with a 375 grain total weight arrow, tipped with a flapper, to want to continue with that setup. Initially, I went that way because fixed heads wouldn't fly straight.
Now, I understand that if the arrow doesn't fly straight, and then I add wings on the front, it's still not going to fly straight. Which led me to bareshaft shooting.
I have GT XT Hunter 300 spine arrows and Black Eagle Carnivore 250 spine arrows. I'm shooting an Elite Energy 35 at 60 lbs with a 30" draw. I have multiples of every field point weight from 100 to 300 grains along with stock, 100 grain, and 200 grain inserts. Obsessive? I know....
Anyway, to my point. Every single arrow hits the target 30-40 degrees tail right. All weights. I've adjusted my grip, relaxed my hand. I moved the rest slightly left which made the tail worse and moved the impact left. I moved it slightly right and it didn't change the tail, but moved impact right.
Looking for Ideas.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
This might seem outside the box but I had those same issues until I starting using a hind sight. It corrected the torque I was putting on the bow. Don’t know if they still make but it made all the difference especially if you aren’t shooting with your dominant eye.
 
LtMoe66 said:
This might seem outside the box but I had those same issues until I starting using a hind sight. It corrected the torque I was putting on the bow. Don’t know if they still make but it made all the difference especially if you aren’t shooting with your dominant eye.
Click to expand...
You can cut the upper or bottom pieces off to line up your pin if that works better also3A2B77CA-8327-4E1E-A2FA-397739920BE4.png3A2B77CA-8327-4E1E-A2FA-397739920BE4.png
 
docost99 said:
I know there are a bunch of guys here that have followed the good ol' Ranch Fairy down the bareshaft tuning rabbit hole. I have had way too many penetration issues with a 375 grain total weight arrow, tipped with a flapper, to want to continue with that setup. Initially, I went that way because fixed heads wouldn't fly straight.
Now, I understand that if the arrow doesn't fly straight, and then I add wings on the front, it's still not going to fly straight. Which led me to bareshaft shooting.
I have GT XT Hunter 300 spine arrows and Black Eagle Carnivore 250 spine arrows. I'm shooting an Elite Energy 35 at 60 lbs with a 30" draw. I have multiples of every field point weight from 100 to 300 grains along with stock, 100 grain, and 200 grain inserts. Obsessive? I know....
Anyway, to my point. Every single arrow hits the target 30-40 degrees tail right. All weights. I've adjusted my grip, relaxed my hand. I moved the rest slightly left which made the tail worse and moved the impact left. I moved it slightly right and it didn't change the tail, but moved impact right.
Looking for Ideas.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Back in the day I always shot my Answer WAY rest left to get good tears. It’s now my backup bow but as I learned more I tried again and fixed it with two things.... rotate the cable guard to create as little force on the cables as possible without causing vane contact, and trying the grip where my hand is rotated far enough clockwise that I curl three fingers under on the left of the grip. But your nock right sounds pretty bad not sure these will do the trick.

Edit: the Hindsight mentioned above, or IQ sight might help too.
 
I had a terrible time doing the handload process and bare shaft tuning with the ranch fairy method at first. a couple things helped tremendously. 1. I built a pvc paper tuning stand for $20, worth every penny. Shooting into a target and looking at arrow impact angle will get you close, but if you're like me, you dont just want to get close. 2. I bare shaft nock tuned the handload bareshafts before going through the handload process. Emailed the ranch fairy himself to share my results and he said nock tuning first is the way to go. I dont think he has said that in any of his videos.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
340 spine shot better for me than 300 spine with 56# draw weight and 28.5” carbon to carbon out of my Bowtech. I also had a consistent right tear and it ended up being mostly grip torque for me. I figured this out after watching a nock on series that John Dudley has on YouTube. Changed my hand position on the bow and tweaked my front arm / shoulder position a little to improve my form.

RF covered this consistent tear scenario in his latest video.
 
ofor said:
340 spine shot better for me than 300 spine with 56# draw weight and 28.5” carbon to carbon out of my Bowtech. I also had a consistent right tear and it ended up being mostly grip torque for me. I figured this out after watching a nock on series that John Dudley has on YouTube. Changed my hand position on the bow and tweaked my front arm / shoulder position a little to improve my form.

RF covered this consistent tear scenario in his latest video.
Click to expand...
Which series did you watch?
 
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