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Back bar opinions

cooperwafzig

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
74
I'm thinking of getting a v bar or a side mount for a qd back bar stabilizer on my hoyt torrex xt. I'm using a super short limbsaver stabilizer right now and tried out a buddies beestinger stabilizer and it helped out alot while target shooting. So while looking at stabilizers I come across the setups that are a front/ back bar in a kit and it peaked my interest. Majority of my shooting is target/ practicing but the bow is ultimately for hunting..are many of you running a back bar for a hunting bow? If so do you like it or does it seem to always be in the way.. never ran one and only shot them on shops demo bows.
 
Mostly when I practice I'm at 40 or 45. That's as far as i would be comfortable shooting at a deer. But would like to be able to target shoot further since I've got room on my slider sight.
 

I put this same model on my bow for this season, because I decided I wanted to shoot with my quiver on and needed something to offset the weight. It offers quite a bit of adjustability and provided me with a lot more stability than the generic trophy ridge stabilizer that came on my bow. I personally don't want to spend $200 for a high end set of bars that to me seem like they would get in the way. I feel like for a hunting bow this is a sweet spot in terms of adjustability, stability and compactness.
 
I used 8/6 on a front + back combo mount this year. I felt like it helped on 40+ yard shots and for offsetting quiver. Did not get in the way. Next season, I plan on trying a counterslide to shave off a few ounces with quiver off.
 
Keep the whitetail shots close, no big stabs required. The target range is a different animal.
 
I’m a bit different I guess. I will tell to be as accurate as possible. There is a reason the pros use bars. However, it is not something you just want to slap on. It takes a little bit of time playing with weights and positioning. If get a little better with the bars, use them. We owe it to the game we try to kill to be as accurate as possible.
 
I’m a bit different I guess. I will tell to be as accurate as possible. There is a reason the pros use bars. However, it is not something you just want to slap on. It takes a little bit of time playing with weights and positioning. If get a little better with the bars, use them. We owe it to the game we try to kill to be as accurate as possible.
Agreed... whether you use a back bar or not depends on how your bow holds.. i ONLY run a back bar... but i used to blindly throw an 8 inch bar on the front then i had trouble holding on target.. it always wanted to drop... now I can hold a lot more steady.
 
I have ran back bars on my hunting bows for years. 10”/8” with 5oz on the back. I just bought a new PSE Omen and it’s the only bow I’ve had in 12 years that doesn’t need the back bar. Lower stab mount puts the weight at the limb pocket and stands her up straight
 
I’ve been using the TAP 10.5” with 2 oz. Up front and the 8.5” back bar with 4oz. My Xpedite’s back lower stabilizer mount hole was mis-threaded so I ran the back bar from the front lower bushing. It holds it well but not completely the way I want it. After season I might take the whole bow down and re-tap it or see what PSE suggests. I’m thinking it may be warrantable. Anyhow, the TAP stuff is awesome!! He’s running a good sale right now too.
 
I’ve been using the TAP 10.5” with 2 oz. Up front and the 8.5” back bar with 4oz. My Xpedite’s back lower stabilizer mount hole was mis-threaded so I ran the back bar from the front lower bushing. It holds it well but not completely the way I want it. After season I might take the whole bow down and re-tap it or see what PSE suggests. I’m thinking it may be warrantable. Anyhow, the TAP stuff is awesome!! He’s running a good sale right now too.
Can’t go wrong with TAP. Sam is a good guy…call him up or email him and he’ll hook you up for sure.
 
My current hunting setup I also use for 3d and the TAC shoot has a 13" front,8"back. My knocked arrow sticks past my stabilizer so it doesn't interfere when in the tree anymore then my arrow does. Don't need the long stabs to shoot 20 yards but what about a follow up shot at 60 -70? It definitely helps then. The way I look at it is I want to be as accurate as possible and if I can slow down my pin float with a heavier bow then why not? Ask some friends what they have laying around and experiment with different lengths and weights to find what feels best for u before u buy.
 
On my hunting bows I try to run zero stabs. Luckily my nexus 4 balances great. My target bow where I shoot long distances has 27” out the front and 12” out the rear with 4oz. With that said. Unless your getting allot of rear cant don’t bother.
 
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