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Best Lighted nock?

Another vote for Nockturnals here.

I never had an issue with them not lighting and this was my third season using the same batch. A few of them have been through multiple deer too. Yes, the design does allow blood to get inside the switch mechanism which could gum things up enough to prevent them from lighting. I've rinsed them in hot water and cycled the switch on and off a few times to get the majority of the blood out and they've performed flawlessly.
I don't trust items on Amazon so I buy from Lancaster Archery.
I've tried Lumenoks and didn't care for them. They're also heavier which affected my overall arrow FOC.
 
Nocturnals are the way to go. I’ve tried a couple other brands and I did not like them at all, they were a pain.
 
DelaWhere_Arrow said:
Correct me if I missed this, but I read your whole post and it seems that you ONLY tried Lumenoks, and not a different brand?

If I got that right, I would suggest trying a different brand and comparing results. I’ve never had an issue with Nockturnals and I know the Amazon knock-offs of the same brand are quite popular and receive great reviews around here. Lumenok is not as user friendly as Nockturnals, by a long shot IMO. Nockturnals are plug & play. Blood or dirt CAN get inside the switch, but it’s a small hole and the hardest thing about these nocks is just finding a small tool to shut them off with. A knife or field point works just fine tho
I’ve heard great things about Firenock too. Haven’t used them so I don’t wanna speak out of turn.
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No correction required. Perhaps I wasn't entirely clear: I'm attempting to decipher how much investment in arrows is necessary and where i should personally draw the line. I've only been shooting compound for a couple seasons now so Im wondering if blowing through expensive arrows is just part of the compound game. Are all lighted nock brands prone to explode when the arrow strikes a hard object? Are all the lighted nocks brands tempermental?
 
Jammintree said:
No correction required. Perhaps I wasn't entirely clear: I'm attempting to decipher how much investment in arrows is necessary and where i should personally draw the line. I've only been shooting compound for a couple seasons now so Im wondering if blowing through expensive arrows is just part of the compound game. Are all lighted nock brands prone to explode when the arrow strikes a hard object? Are all the lighted nocks brands tempermental?
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Fmj’s suck.

Lighted nocks should be viewed as a luxury. Not needed, could be helpful on a shot memory or track or recovery, might fail but won’t impact the outcome of a shot.

I’ve shot a few brands and never had one that shot a target or a deer affect the outcome of a shot. I can also say I’ve not seen one break at all (physically, not the light), but I haven’t shot that many of em at that many deer. But at least hundreds if not thousands of shots.

If you’re breaking nocks regularly, stop shooting groups, rocks, trees. If you’re breaking them regularly shooting deer, I don’t know mayne.

Expensive arrows don’t change outcomes. Repeatably built, consistent, squared arrows and components in proper spine change outcomes. This can be done cheaply(ish)
 
kyler1945 said:
Fmj’s suck.

Lighted nocks should be viewed as a luxury. Not needed, could be helpful on a shot memory or track or recovery, might fail but won’t impact the outcome of a shot.

I’ve shot a few brands and never had one that shot a target or a deer affect the outcome of a shot. I can also say I’ve not seen one break at all (physically, not the light), but I haven’t shot that many of em at that many deer. But at least hundreds if not thousands of shots.

If you’re breaking nocks regularly, stop shooting groups, rocks, trees. If you’re breaking them regularly shooting deer, I don’t know mayne.

Expensive arrows don’t change outcomes. Repeatably built, consistent, squared arrows and components in proper spine change outcomes. This can be done cheaply(ish)
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I’ve had 2 break, physically, not the light. Both broke when being shot, one at a target, one at a deer. It happens and it isn’t fun when it does. Luckily my bow didn’t break and I didn’t wound a deer, I feel lucky in that aspect.
 
Jammintree said:
No correction required. Perhaps I wasn't entirely clear: I'm attempting to decipher how much investment in arrows is necessary and where i should personally draw the line. I've only been shooting compound for a couple seasons now so Im wondering if blowing through expensive arrows is just part of the compound game. Are all lighted nock brands prone to explode when the arrow strikes a hard object? Are all the lighted nocks brands tempermental?
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Never had a single lighted nock “break”. That’s wild.
I generally agree with what @kyler1945 said.
Speaking personally, each arrow in my quiver costs about $30-35 if I remember my math from a different thread. That’s Easton 6.5mm Bowhunter arrows, stock aluminum inserts, 100gr Montecs, Blazer vanes, and nockturnals. 380gr TAW I think. I’ve never had anything but a shaft break going through an animal. I don’t think of my arrows as “expensive”, but I know they are not necessarily “cheap”. I perceive them as: they cost what they cost for the best performance out of my bow. Don’t care that I use broadheads that weren’t machined nor that my TAW isn’t freaking 900gr. I’ve shot almost exactly the same setup for 12 years, and at least 10 critters have died thanks to it. No reason to change.
I feel like for me, lighted nocks are necessary because I’m not great at finding my arrow even when it’s right in front of me. I also started filming most of my shots on deer, and the lighted nocks are invaluable when confirming shot placement both in the moment and on film. So I feel the extra cost over stock nocks is worth it. But only in my hunting arrows. I practice with stock nocks so I’m not chasing battery life in-season.
 
DelaWhere_Arrow said:
Never had a single lighted nock “break”. That’s wild.
I generally agree with what @kyler1945 said.
Speaking personally, each arrow in my quiver costs about $30-35 if I remember my math from a different thread. That’s Easton 6.5mm Bowhunter arrows, stock aluminum inserts, 100gr Montecs, Blazer vanes, and nockturnals. 380gr TAW I think. I’ve never had anything but a shaft break going through an animal. I don’t think of my arrows as “expensive”, but I know they are not necessarily “cheap”. I perceive them as: they cost what they cost for the best performance out of my bow. Don’t care that I use broadheads that weren’t machined nor that my TAW isn’t freaking 900gr. I’ve shot almost exactly the same setup for 12 years, and at least 10 critters have died thanks to it. No reason to change.
I feel like for me, lighted nocks are necessary because I’m not great at finding my arrow even when it’s right in front of me. I also started filming most of my shots on deer, and the lighted nocks are invaluable when confirming shot placement both in the moment and on film. So I feel the extra cost over stock nocks is worth it. But only in my hunting arrows. I practice with stock nocks so I’m not chasing battery life in-season.
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I’d guess that my arrow set up was a similar per arrow cost, which means that one hunt where I shot 4 arrows cost $120. Some of the breakage is acceptable and understandable. But for all elements of the arrows to be lost in one hunt isn’t a reality I’m gonna engage in.

So other lighted knocks don’t commonly explode from the concussion of impacting a semi hard medium?
 
Jammintree said:
I’d guess that my arrow set up was a similar per arrow cost, which means that one hunt where I shot 4 arrows cost $120. Some of the breakage is acceptable and understandable. But for all elements of the arrows to be lost in one hunt isn’t a reality I’m gonna engage in.

So other lighted knocks don’t commonly explode from the concussion of impacting a semi hard medium?
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Wow 4 arrows, that’s either an Uncle Ted kinda hunting day or a Me kinda hunting day lol. I know which I’d rather have.
If your entire arrow breaks on the shot, you likely have a problem with overall structural integrity. A good archery tech is your best friend.
No, other nocks of any kind shouldn’t explode at all unless you shoot them in my personal experience. I sensed (and appreciated) the sarcasm, but in all seriousness exploding components OTHER THAN a deer’s ribcage indicate a larger issue at hand IMO.
 
Eh, I've blown at least 2 lighted nocks up on hard impacts. I don't think nocks are as durable as we all act like they are. Dudley and his cohort say they should be replaced regularly so the theft fit the string right and don't cause accuracy issues due to nock fit
 
Horn said:
Eh, I've blown at least 2 lighted nocks up on hard impacts. I don't think nocks are as durable as we all act like they are. Dudley and his cohort say they should be replaced regularly so the theft fit the string right and don't cause accuracy issues due to nock fit
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That’s crazy s***. Never seen that. Y’all must be hitting them deers like Mack trucks. Seriously, never seen a single nock explode. Not one. I get they ain’t titanium but they shouldn’t behave that chincey-like in my opinion.
On fit, I totally agree. I did learn a little trick that works in a pinch: stick a plastic grocery bag over the inside end of the nock, push the bagged end into the butt of the arrow, rip the bag away, leaving the little bit inside the arrow and you’re snug as a bug.
 
You should replace your nocks depending on how much you shoot and such. I would shoot Nocturnals with the hole or button up. Keep the stiffer side down.
I did test a ton of lighted nocks a while back. Hands down Firenock was the was the most consistent, durable and expensive. I shot nockturals for a while but they were not great with 4mm. They are all much better now and I think I’ll try some again this year.
 
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