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Best option to silence/reduce noise on carabiners??

I usually get the 12 roll pack off Amazon…..I know, I know. But it’s cheap. I bought some stealth strips for the first time, but haven’t opened them up yet.
 
I've used vet tape and after some time it because a pain. It comes off and doesn't handle the elements. My next idea is to try large heat shrink tubing.
 
I want to be able to inspect my carabeaners at any time. Tailgunners solution looks awesome - how do you make those? Wanna do some trading?
 
I "silence" all of my hunting use carabiners, but that extends to specifically the barrel of the screw-lock (or auto-lock) AND the spine. I prefer shrink tubing for this purpose, always adhesive lined, and I now use a rubbery clear shrink tube from Wesspur designed for rope end caps or protection. This is personal decision, and I can't advocate this, but it's what I personally do.
 

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bowhunthard88 said:
I "silence" all of my hunting use carabiners, but that extends to specifically the barrel of the screw-lock (or auto-lock) AND the spine. I prefer shrink tubing for this purpose, always adhesive lined, and I now use a rubbery clear shrink tube from Wesspur designed for rope end caps or protection. This is personal decision, and I can't advocate this, but it's what I personally do.
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Can you share a link for that? sounds like a good idea.
 
I would only cover if metal to metal contact like a carabiner going through a ascender or descender or mechanical progress capture. All others are left stock. But for covered, no need to waste money on stealth strips for this, any athletic or felt tape will work.
 
dbow0603 said:
Can you share a link for that? sounds like a good idea.
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www.wesspur.com

Adhesive-lined 3:1 Shrink Tubing - 3/4"

Details3/4" shrink tubing for prusiks and cords up to 11mm (7/16"). 3:1 adhesive heat-shrink tubing is top-quality protection for your finished splices. Shrinks as far down as 1/3 of original size when heated. Sold by the foot. Three sizes available:3/4" - for prusiks and cords up to 11mm...
www.wesspur.com www.wesspur.com
 
dbow0603 said:
I've used vet tape and after some time it because a pain. It comes off and doesn't handle the elements. My next idea is to try large heat shrink tubing.
Click to expand...
I just bought a big pack of heat shrink tubing……GENIUS! I agree the vet tape doesn’t hold up. I did start putting super glue on the ends to lock them down.
 
I leave them alone so I can inspect for any cracks,But mine are used on friction hitches not metal on metal so noise is not a factor but the nylon tubing is a great idea because it can be removed to inspect your gear.
 
If your carabiner is conected your bridge than you can smack it with your release or the cam on your bow when moving it over the top to your weak side.i dont like any bare metal showing on my hunting gear...cant make metal noise if there aint none.i would put tubular webbing on the frame and shrink tube on the locking mechanism to be safe.
 
I cover the outside edge of mine but not any hinges or other moving parts. I like the inside slick so the ropes/webbing can slide easily. Bare metal acts like a magnet and will attract other bare metal to clankity clank clank with at every opportunity. Like above said I try to cover it all, unless there’s a safety / function reason not to.
 
Anyone ever use rope jacket in lieu of tubular webbing, like @tailgunner ? I don't have any of the larger arb ropes, or larger utility rope, but it looks like it should work, and might be a use for retired ropes.
 
Iron_llama said:
Anyone ever use rope jacket in lieu of tubular webbing, like @tailgunner ? I don't have any of the larger arb ropes, or larger utility rope, but it looks like it should work, and might be a use for retired ropes.
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Another application of amsteel courtesy of saddle hunter . Com.

This is a great idea.
 
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