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Bolt Carrier for 8” Grade 8s?

C

cibor

Active Member
SH Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2019
Messages
112
Wondering what people are using to lug around your 8” bolts? I’ve seen more than a few examples for 6 or 7” bolts but nothing really for 8”.

Maybe examples exist on here but I must suck at searching because I’ve tried quite a few different ways and came up with very little.

Thank you!
 
Combination of Eberhart suggestion and several of the trees where I hunt are very large and have thick bark. Thought 8” would be the safest bet
 
cibor said:
Combination of Eberhart suggestion and several of the trees where I hunt are very large and have thick bark. Thought 8” would be the safest bet
Click to expand...

Too long, they’ll bend. Stick with 6”. I even use some 5.5” sometimes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
lungpuncher1 said:
Too long, they’ll bend. Stick with 6”. I even use some 5.5” sometimes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
How would an 8 bend if a 6 doesn’t, all else being the same? I plan to plant my foot next to the tree like I would any other length.

I could understand the leverage argument if I put my weight on the end of the bolt
 
I guess I should also ask how deep a tree hopper drills? Santa is bringing me one for Christmas
 
The normal suggestion is to go with the 6 inch 3/8 grade 8 bolts. They are sort of the standard and sort of a known quantity. I used them for years on private. I mostly did presets with them and an electric drill. I've been watching the videos John has been putting out and I have some private permission about an hour north of me that I plan to thoroughly scout post season and prep for next season. I got the OK from the owner to do whatever up there, so I have been giving the setups that John uses a lot of thought lately. It's 280 acres of thick stuff with Ag all around, so that is a lot of room for some sets. The reason people say the 8's will bend is that couple of more inches gives you a lot more leverage. Is it enough to bend one, not sure?

In the videos, he states he uses spike a lot, and the ones he is using are not grade 8, just steel spikes. He does say that as long as you are 165 pounds or less then they are OK. I'm 155 pounds soaking wet so this is the route I may go if I satisfy myself that they are safe for me. He said he has turned some heavier guys onto spikes, but they cannot use 3/8 and have to use a 1/2 drill bit and 1/2 Rebar. For his presets he is hammering them in with a hatchet/hammer so these are permanent.

I plan to pick up a few steel spikes at the hardware store and try them out at ground level. Can't endorse it personally but If John has been doing it all this time there has to be something to it.

Get a couple of grade 8 bolts 8 inches long, put them in a tree about 6 inches off the ground and jump up and down on them and see if they will bend. You didn't mention how much you weighed. Just be careful.

I sewed up a bolt bandoleer for 3/8 bolts that can hang off a belt that I plan to try out. John uses a 2 pouch carpenters style belt for preparing presets. In one of his recent videos he gives the phone number of the guy who makes the preset pouches for him so people can call and have one made.
 
Last edited:
Allegheny Tom said:
I think the OP's reason for wanting 8" is because he is climbing trees with thick bark.
The thing to ask is, what drill will be used? For thick bark, a diy bit drilled with a cordles is really the only safe option.
Click to expand...
Irwin speed bore 3/8 would probably work. They are longer. I bet you could put a stop collar on the bit and get the same effect as the hand drill bits.
 
cibor said:
How would an 8 bend if a 6 doesn’t, all else being the same? I plan to plant my foot next to the tree like I would any other length.

I could understand the leverage argument if I put my weight on the end of the bolt
Click to expand...

Leverage. In the dark you are going to step on the end I promise. I use bolts exclusively so I’ve been there.
 
www.customgearmodifications.com

Bolt an Drill Roll Pouch | Custom Gear Modifica

Compact roll pouch to keep your bolts and drill separate and quite! Features include:1. Large outer pocket to throw your bolts in on the way down.2. Elasitc slots for 11 standard grade 8 bolts or carbon.3. Upper interior pocket for drill4. 3/8 webbing and hardware to keep things organized.
www.customgearmodifications.com www.customgearmodifications.com

not sure if this would fit 8” bolts, but if not, you might be able to get him to see a custom one for you.
 
cibor said:
How would an 8 bend if a 6 doesn’t, all else being the same? I plan to plant my foot next to the tree like I would any other length.

I could understand the leverage argument if I put my weight on the end of the bolt
Click to expand...
I weigh 240Lb. I have trees permanently set w/ 1/2"x10" rebar. they go in 4" with 6" sticking out. I can get them bend if I stand on the end. However my partner cannot. he weighs 175Lb. I now use 5/8" w/a washer welded on the end. problem solved.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
The normal suggestion is to go with the 6 inch 3/8 grade 8 bolts. They are sort of the standard and sort of a known quantity. I used them for years on private. I mostly did presets with them and an electric drill. I've been watching the videos John has been putting out and I have some private permission about an hour north of me that I plan to thoroughly scout post season and prep for next season. I got the OK from the owner to do whatever up there, so I have been giving the setups that John uses a lot of thought lately. It's 280 acres of thick stuff with Ag all around, so that is a lot of room for some sets. The reason people say the 8's will bend is that couple of more inches gives you a lot more leverage. Is it enough to bend one, not sure?

In the videos, he states he uses spike a lot, and the ones he is using are not grade 8, just steel spikes. He does say that as long as you are 165 pounds or less then they are OK. I'm 155 pounds soaking wet so this is the route I may go if I satisfy myself that they are safe for me. He said he has turned some heavier guys onto spikes, but they cannot use 3/8 and have to use a 1/2 drill bit and 1/2 Rebar. For his presets he is hammering them in with a hatchet/hammer so these are permanent.

I plan to pick up a few steel spikes at the hardware store and try them out at ground level. Can't endorse it personally but If John has been doing it all this time there has to be something to it.

Get a couple of grade 8 bolts 8 inches long, put them in a tree about 6 inches off the ground and jump up and down on them and see if they will bend. You didn't mention how much you weighed. Just be careful.

I sewed up a bolt bandoleer for 3/8 bolts that can hang off a belt that I plan to try out. John uses a 2 pouch carpenters style belt for preparing presets. In one of his recent videos he gives the phone number of the guy who makes the preset pouches for him so people can call and have one made.
Click to expand...

I had similar thinking, if Eberhart has been doing it for 30 years as he says and I have no reason not to believe him then perhaps that's the jumping off point. This is the video I took the 8" bolt length from, starting at the 5m10s mark, though he does start the video by showing a 7" bolt (1m25s mark)

Of course I've already bought 15 Grade 8s (8") before reading that it seems everyone is doing 6". I also don't have trees down where I live that are similar to what I'm hunting 2hrs north of here, aside from an insanely large Cottonwood. My original concern was given how large the trees were and how thick the bark that even if I drill into the valley of the bark the peak would eat into the available foot room and the last thing I wanted was to get geared up and then walk to the tree to find that I'm climbing on 2" steps.


To your question I am around 200lbs give or take a thanksgiving meal.

I will certainly run a test close to ground level to see how comfortable I am and how safe I am with such a setup.
 
Do you plan to leave these in permanently? The grade 8's will probably be OK, just test them out and try to not put weight way out on the end. This is the video where I really paid attention to how John was setting up the spots. This is basically what I plan to do up on that permission property. The owner doesn't care what I do, and he was a bowhunter years ago (1990's) and used screw steps all the time, so he knows. He is too old to hunt now and just wants some meat.

Post season scouting, finding and setting up a Maple in a bedding area - YouTube Around the 16:30 mark.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
Do you plan to leave these in permanently? The grade 8's will probably be OK, just test them out and try to not put weight way out on the end. This is the video where I really paid attention to how John was setting up the spots. This is basically what I plan to do up on that permission property. The owner doesn't care what I do, and he was a bowhunter years ago (1990's) and used screw steps all the time, so he knows. He is too old to hunt now and just wants some meat.

Post season scouting, finding and setting up a Maple in a bedding area - YouTube Around the 16:30 mark.
Click to expand...
I plant on taking out as I go.

I hunt public MN WMA (wildlife management area) and state forests, I haven't found anything in the regulations that says I can't use bolts. It does say clearly that bolts and nails are prohibited on Federal/County/ lands, Scientific and Natural Areas, state parks and state recreation areas (SRA)
 
Here is a pretty lengthy thread about bolts. (15) Treebolts revisited | saddlehunter.com

You will probably be fine with a hand drill and the 8 inch but you may decide to get 6 inch ones once you get the hang of them. If you are doing preset locations prior to the hunt, then the cordless drill is the way to go.
 
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