Bolts - Different Types (Advantages/Disadvantages)

[TNbowhunter]

I used climbing sticks for my mobile hunts last year, but I hunt mostly private, so I'm giving bolts a try this season, as I want to cut down on bulk/weight and have some preset trees I can get into in a hurry for pre- or post-work hunts. I bought a used Treehopper hand drill from a fella on here, and I have about a dozen steel bolts my dad gave me since he doesn't use them any more. That's a long prelude to my question:

What are the advantages/disadvantages to using the different types of bolts? Specifically, I'm thinking about plain steel bolts, power-coated steel bolts, aluminum bolts, carbon bolts, intended-use (hunting-specific) bolts, rods (no bolt "head"), etc.

Here's what I can come up with:

Type	Advantages	Disadvantages
plain steel	Cheap, strong, readily available	Loud, cold, heavy
powder-coated steel	Cheaper than carbon, more comfortable to the touch	More expensive than plain steel, heavier than carbon and aluminum
Aluminum	Light, cheap?	Weaker than steel
Carbon	Light	Expensive as ballz, breakage potential
Hunting-specific (all types)	Can screw in/out, good grip	More expensive than rods
Rods	Cheap	Slippery?, not intended use

Any others?

 

[skyjacker]

Titanium. Carbon, Titanium, and Steel is basically what's been field tested by the majority. I wouldn't even consider aluminum, but that's just me.

 

[Cajunyankee]

@Nutterbuster did a great review on carbon bolts. I bought a set due to the weight savings. They are almost completely silent if they bump into each other as well. I took some pictures (12 bolts I believe) to show the difference. 2lbs 6oz for the steel and only 8oz for the carbon. If I hadn’t lost my private land spot, carbon bolt would be my go to method.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Hard to go wrong with grade 8 steel for doing presets. Noise and weight isn't much of a concern for that.
I'm on the fence with carbon. Your body weight will be a factor.
Most of my bolts are just painted, but I do have a few dozen with marine grade heat shrink tube. It is pretty nice stuff. Very fast and easy to apply. Plastic dip is messy and takes more time to do, plus it isn't nearly as durable as the marine grade heat shrink.

 

[MJH]

Aluminum needs to come off that list - pronto.

I put some hockey tape on my steel bolts and that shuts them up. Noise isn't a factor to me.

 

[BackSpasm]

Following with interest


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EricS]

I used grade 8 for presets and titanium for my mobile system where legal. I’m a little leery of carbon and wouldn’t even consider aluminum.

 

[Newhunter1]

I used climbing sticks for my mobile hunts last year, but I hunt mostly private, so I'm giving bolts a try this season, as I want to cut down on bulk/weight and have some preset trees I can get into in a hurry for pre- or post-work hunts. I bought a used Treehopper hand drill from a fella on here, and I have about a dozen steel bolts my dad gave me since he doesn't use them any more. That's a long prelude to my question:

What are the advantages/disadvantages to using the different types of bolts? Specifically, I'm thinking about plain steel bolts, power-coated steel bolts, aluminum bolts, carbon bolts, intended-use (hunting-specific) bolts, rods (no bolt "head"), etc.

Here's what I can come up with:

Type	Advantages	Disadvantages
plain steel	Cheap, strong, readily available	Loud, cold, heavy
powder-coated steel	Cheaper than carbon, more comfortable to the touch	More expensive than plain steel, heavier than carbon and aluminum
Aluminum	Light, cheap?	Weaker than steel
Carbon	Light	Expensive as ballz, breakage potential
Hunting-specific (all types)	Can screw in/out, good grip	More expensive than rods
Rods	Cheap	Slippery?, not intended use

Any others?

I'll put in a shameless plug...I have 18 titanium medical grade bolts and the chest rig in the classifieds.

 

[TNbowhunter]

Really good feedback so far. Thanks, all! Sounds like steel bolts are most folks' starting point, with carbon and titanium being what I'll call "luxury items" due to their weight.

Anyone have experience with powder-coated steel bolts like THESE offered by Treehopper? And are they worth ~30% more than standard steel bolts like THOSE?

 

[JASmith]

I have been using 303 stainless rod, because I can get it cheap from work. Not sure how it compares to grade 8. But I've only bent one at the base of the tree with all 170# on me. Wrap with vet tape.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Really good feedback so far. Thanks, all! Sounds like steel bolts are most folks' starting point, with carbon and titanium being what I'll call "luxury items" due to their weight.

Anyone have experience with powder-coated steel bolts like THESE offered by Treehopper? And are they worth ~30% more than standard steel bolts like THOSE?

Mark sent me a variety of coated bolts to test. They are okay, but not really worth the price IMO. For most applications, an uncoated bolt is fine. If you want a "coated" bolt, you should seriously consider the marine grade heat shrink. This stuff holds paint well so if you want them camo, just give them an overspray of primer.
I carry a pair a mini vice grips in case I need to remove a tight bolt. Works better than an allen wrench because it gets clamped to the bolt...no chance of dropping it like can happen with an allen wrench.

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[kyler1945]

How big is the piece of property that you're hunting?

For me, if I'm walking less than a mile each way, there's not much benefit to titanium or carbon over steel. I only ever explored either out of curiosity, and the fact I'm usually walking 4/5 miles minimum when hunting most times. Space is more important with less than a mile to walk than weight. Especially when factoring in safety.

Having said all of that, I'd buy 50 grade 8 bolts and be done with it. Life's short! Unless you're going hard every day wearing out your tire treads, a half pound aint gonna matter!

 

[Cajunyankee]

Really good feedback so far. Thanks, all! Sounds like steel bolts are most folks' starting point, with carbon and titanium being what I'll call "luxury items" due to their weight.

Anyone have experience with powder-coated steel bolts like THESE offered by Treehopper? And are they worth ~30% more than standard steel bolts like THOSE?

I do. The powder-coated bolts pictured above are from tree hopper. The only thing I disliked was when I tried carrying them in a pouch on my saddle. 3.5 lbs isn’t much but gets annoying when it flips around while sneaking by through the brush. I have never tried the plain steel bolts so I can’t give a direct comparison.

 

[MoBowGuy]

I have been using 303 stainless rod, because I can get it cheap from work. Not sure how it compares to grade 8. But I've only bent one at the base of the tree with all 170# on me. Wrap with vet tape.

i know im a little late to the game here, but we have 314 stainless where i work. ive played with the idea of using it, however, it would need to be knurled or painted with a truck bed liner or it would just be to dang slippery. which is fine because i can do that at would. if it happens, id be using 3/8 inch and 8 inches long and they would only be for presets on private.

 

[JASmith]

Ya, it works for me. I can bend then if I try, and I chuck them in a cordless drill and wrap with cheap electrical tape. Easy and fast! Kinda fun too