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Bolts in softwoods

Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
45
Location
WNY
Hey all,

First time climbing bolts this morning and I had a less than safe experience drilling into a willow tree. Half way up to hunting height I had the realization that this might not be the best climbing style for something with thick bark and a soft interior. Luckily I was also tethered into my SRT at the time (safety first) and could easily transition my weight onto the line as a freshly drilled bolt gave way.

Is it me, or it is the tree? Do people who have climbed SRT or One sticked feel like going back to a non-tethered climbing method is riskier or did I just have a bad first experience?

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Man, that stinks. Glad you had a backup. I usually use a linesman's belt while drilling and have one foot on the other bolt but that would be nerve racking. On soft trees I usually drill on a little downward angle so if the wood of the tree gives under my weight (150 pounds) it won't go past level.
 
I haven't had that experience. I have climbed bolts on trees less than a 6" diameter. What was your setting process? Did you have the bolts angled down any or completely horizontal? Trees are incredibly strong. Think about the sustained gale force winds they take. Usually when they fail the whole tree turns over and roots are ripped out of the ground
 
Slight upward angle (acute angle up). I'll take a picture when I rappel down, but it looks like the bolt settled into the wood a lot, reaching a roughly 90 degree angle in some spots.

Edit: 215 lbs, obviously was using a linemans primarily to hold me into the tree. Time for a diet I guess.

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Thick bark is problematic, even for screw in steps. Maybe even more so for screw ins than bolts. The bark of some big old cottonwood trees is so thick that a standard screw in or 6" bolt just doesnt penetrate very far into actual wood. You can always use an 8" bolt but that will require having a drill rig that allows you to drill deeper.
Another issue with mature cottonwood is they are often too big to manage sticks. Some trees just present problems to climb...and they often seem to be the only tree in that perfect spot for an ambush ( not to mention it'll probably have poison ivy vines on it!).
I'm not a ladderstand guy but sometimes they are the safest option.
 
Thick bark is problematic, even for screw in steps. Maybe even more so for screw ins than bolts. The bark of some big old cottonwood trees is so thick that a standard screw in or 6" bolt just doesnt penetrate very far into actual wood. You can always use an 8" bolt but that will require having a drill rig that allows you to drill deeper.
Another issue with mature cottonwood is they are often too big to manage sticks. Some trees just present problems to climb...and they often seem to be the only tree in that perfect spot for an ambush ( not to mention it'll probably have poison ivy vines on it!).
I'm not a ladderstand guy but sometimes they are the safest option.
Different methods for different trees is definitely something I've learned this year. Willows are usually trees that I have no problem getting into with ropes and an ascended, but maybe I should keep the bolts for smaller trees or trees with thin bark.

I sure as hell wouldn't one stick into this tree.

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I've had the same experience once on a similar tree. Luckily I noticed it seemed soft on the first bolt and stepped off and on a couple times and the bolt started to angle down. I don't know the tree species but sounds similar to what you described. It wasn't a bark issue in my case, the wood was just too soft.
 
Different methods for different trees is definitely something I've learned this year. Willows are usually trees that I have no problem getting into with ropes and an ascended, but maybe I should keep the bolts for smaller trees or trees with thin bark.

I sure as hell wouldn't one stick into this tree.

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I've seen some multi trunked willow trees that are huge at the base, below where they split off into the smaller trunks. Some of those trees would be nearly impossible to stick climb unless you had strap/rope extensions. Those trees often have really thick and furrowed bark. You might be able to set bolts but make sure you drill in the crevices of the bark and not the ridges of the bark. Choosing the exact, correct location of where you bore can make a 25%-50% difference of the bolt being primarily in solid wood or sketchy bark.
 
I've been using a 3/8" bit on Hemlocks, drill them in about 2.5" (angled like mentioned) tap them in, and the 3/8" bolts seem to stay tight. I leave them in the trees for the season
 
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