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Bow maintenance

Weldabeast

Weldabeast

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
12,501
Location
Northeast Florida
My bow gets rained on and dropped in the mud multiple times every season....I've always just waxed the string and blown off any dirt/twigs/mud off with compressed air and called it good.

What is a good bow maintenance plan to follow to help your bow keep running smooth....
 
Weldabeast said:
I've always just waxed the string and blown off any dirt/twigs/mud off with compressed air and called it good.
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Above is my maintenance list. :)

A bow is mostly painted or powder-coated aluminum and fiberglass. They make boats and gun receivers out of that stuff. It's pretty durable.

I suppose you can technically get rust around the pins holding your cams in place, on the screws holding the module to the cam if your bow has those, and on the screws attaching your rest, sight, quiver, etc. BFD. Let it rust. Free loctite.

Unless your bow starts squeaking, I'd say keep rocking the way you are. If it squeaks, break it down and lube the cam pins and limb sockets.
 
I was really wanting a new elite bow with all the bells and whistles but because of rain mud and so on decided I didnt want mess up a $1,000+ bow. Got me a less than $300 bear for hunting, one day I may get that expensive one but it may be just for target shooting.
 
Jwiggins762 said:
I was really wanting a new elite bow with all the bells and whistles but because of rain mud and so on decided I didnt want mess up a $1,000+ bow. Got me a less than $300 bear for hunting, one day I may get that expensive one but it may be just for target shooting.
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What bells and whistles are on an Elite? I've owned 3 of them, plus several matthews and hoyts. Never noticed them having anything the Bears, PSEs, etc. didnt have

All you pay for with a more prestigious name is usually a more optimized cam and limb system. IE, smoother and/or faster. They all kill deer.

That said, if you want an elite, I have one I don't want. It will cost you more than $300, but less than $400.
 
Nutterbuster said:
That said, if you want an elite, I have one I don't want. It will cost you more than $300, but less than $400.
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Appreciate it but I got 2 compounds now so I'm set for hunting season, one day I would love to have one for just shooting long distance.
 
Weldabeast said:
My bow gets rained on and dropped in the mud multiple times every season....I've always just waxed the string and blown off any dirt/twigs/mud off with compressed air and called it good.

What is a good bow maintenance plan to follow to help your bow keep running smooth....
Click to expand...
If mine gets rained on I blow it off with compressed air when I get home, then hang it in a really dry environment like the furnace room to make sure it gets good and dry. I apply A drop of 3in1 oil to the axles and always keep the strings and cables waxed.
 
Jwiggins762 said:
I was really wanting a new elite bow with all the bells and whistles but because of rain mud and so on decided I didnt want mess up a $1,000+ bow. Got me a less than $300 bear for hunting, one day I may get that expensive one but it may be just for target shooting.
Click to expand...
There's absolutely nothing wrong with your approach. However, my justification (or maybe rationalization is a better term:)) for spending on a bow is this. I have two deer rifles, by the time you add up the rifle and optics cost your well over the $1k apiece price tag. I rifle hunted 5 days last year (2 all day sits, 2 mornings and evenings and one other morning) and fired 5 rounds all year (2 ea to verify zero in preseason and one deer). That's a lot of expense tied up for little usage.

On the other hand I sat with the bow 80+ times for deer and 4 times turkey hunting before filling my tag last year. On top of that I shoot at least twice a week all off-season and probably closer to 3 times. Bottom line is that thing gets USED! I don't mind paying a little more for it since it is my go to hunting tool. It hunts in all conditions and gets banged around a little but that's the sign of a working weapon. I call it character:). Just my $.02 worth.
 
I don't consider myself an expert, but here's what's worked just fine for me (pretty similar to what you do):
  1. Keep bow string waxed consistently, and try to remember to wax it the night before a rainy hunt if you can.
    1. Be sure you know how your bow shoots when it's wet, heavily waxed, muddy, etc. if that's how you're going to hunt, because those things can make a world of difference at even 30 yards and even if you shoot a really fast bow like I do (BowTech RPM 360).
  2. Frequently check cams and cable slides for debris, removing with air or a rag.
  3. Use a neoprene sling that covers the string and cams when coming and going from particularly rough/wet/muddy hunts.
  4. Store the bow in a dry place.
  5. A couple times a year, check the screws and limbs closely for rust, cracks, heavy wear, etc.--apply oil where necessary.
Advice I don't generally follow myself (but should):
  1. Change your bow string annually, or sooner if it shows signs of heavy wear.
  2. Re-serve everything and tie on a new d-loop annually, or sooner if either shows signs of heavy wear.
  3. Press the bow periodically (or after a really gross hunt), remove the string, and really wipe down the cams and cable slides.
  4. Put a bit of oil (3-in-1 or Rem Oil) in the places that move and a little Loctite in the places that don't.
 
TNbowhunter said:
  1. Change your bow string annually, or sooner if it shows signs of heavy wear.
  2. Re-serve everything and tie on a new d-loop annually, or sooner if either shows signs of heavy wear.
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All depends on how often you shoot, what string material you're using, what arrows you're using, how you store your bow, and a host of other variables. My dad has a Mathews Featherlite that wears a 10 year old string. It stays in his closet at camp and gets shot maybe 5 times a year. It's his backup bow in case he forgets to pack his main when he rides up for a hunt. He had me check it out last year since I have a press. I pressed it, separated the strands and fibers, checked the serving, shot a few arrows through paper, waxed it, and gave it back to him.

If you are someone who likes or believes in shooting a hundred arrows a weekend all year, annual might make sense. Strings are tougher than folks think they are. I can't tell you how many perfectly good strings I threw away when I worked at a shop because somebody thought they were being smart and doing the right thing. Heck, a lot of times all they needed was new serving. Bit nope, gotta have a whole new string to the tune of $150 bucks.

You'll be uncomfortable with a string long before it breaks, barring a freak occurence or something like a burr on a cam groove cutting it in a dozen shots after you ding the cam without realizing it.

Bows are tough. Bows are simple. Bows have a lot of myths and rumours surrounding them. Like heat delaminating them. I used to get a kick out of telling people who insisted on that little legend that every one of the 400+ bows in my shop came from a warehouse in atlanta in a big, metal, shipping container around july or august. So hot when you unloaded it you felt like you were opening an oven.

There are many things in life worth worrying over or babying. Bows ain't one
 
My bear cruzer is the truck bow....it stays in a padded case behind my seat. It rarely leaves that spot. I read that it's not good to keep a compound in the truck because of extreme temps? I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary it's been back there for couple years now. ... Maybe that was the case with older technology limbs?
 
Those of us in wet and humid environments, I highly suggest becoming good friends with a de-humidifier and a hair dryer. During the colder months here in NY our wood stove is a great friend to keep things dry too. Most bows now have sealed bearings, stainless steel axel's etc. and as long as you can dry things out every night after a hunt, your equipment should be in pretty good shape. Another thing to consider is stainless fasteners if the rust concerns you on things like your limb bolt heads, sight screw heads, set screws etc. If I've been hunting in snow or rain conditions and my bow is soaked, I dry it off at the truck with an old towel and prop it up in the front seat and get the heater blowing on it until I get home, this gets most of the moisture you can see. Then I bring it in and take a hair dryer on low setting to the areas that are harder to reach. An air compressor works good too but If I suspect it is still in areas I cannot get it out of, I'll still use the hair dryer. The heated part dries itself so to speak. Most manuals recommend not using any spray lubricant's etc. on your cam axles because these solvents can attract dirt and grit. I try to store my hunting equipment in a room with a dehumidifier during the summer months and in the winter months where the humidity is low to keep rust at bay. Just like running your firearms, a little lube goes a long way and drier is better all things considered. One final recommendation, a light mineral oil (which has no discernable scent IMHO) wiped on your limb bolts etc. or any steel surface that is prone to rust may keep it in good order. Now you turd birds with dirty minds, don't take this comment the wrong way... but Just put a couple of drops on your finger and work it all over the bolt heads etc. Another trick an old bow show owner used to use is scentless or white petroleum jelly, just a very light coat. This works great on your high carbon steel content broadheads too!!
 
Weldabeast said:
My bear cruzer is the truck bow....it stays in a padded case behind my seat. It rarely leaves that spot. I read that it's not good to keep a compound in the truck because of extreme temps? I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary it's been back there for couple years now. ... Maybe that was the case with older technology limbs?
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I still wouldn't keep today's bows in too hot conditions but that's just because I'm old school. But yes, the older bows utilized laminated and glued limbs and high heat could cause them to "come apart." The Gordon Bowtuff glass limb materials that they use now are pretty bomb proof so you're probably ok but to me, if you have to store you bow in you vehicle, keep the windows open a crack etc.
 
I noticed my drop away rest wasn't dropping away as quickly last year and it was because of exactly that reason, moisture got up in there and some surface rust developed. I guess it probably could've made for a pretty bad day if I hunted with it like that.
 
I’ve owned four bows, and only ever shot 3(one was a spare) in 23 years of bowhunting, and 25 years of shooting. I’ve never done any maintenance besides wax strings, change strings, and wipe off dirt. I seem to remember a couple spray downs with a hose after particularly swampy outings. On occasion a rest bolt or sight bolt would be rusty enough to annoy me and Get swapped. I’m thinking once or twice that I recall.

I’ve averaged 3000 shots a year the last 8 years, before that about 4 years of 2-300 a year, preceded by 2000+ a year since I first picked up a bow. I’ve gone through a total of 5 strings, in 50k+ shots with a bow. Zero other maintenance.
 
I should have qualified my last statement, the older laminated limb bows we used to have were wood laminated limbs with fiberglass on the outside of each limb then they would put a gloss polyurethane over the wood and fiberglass laminations. The manuals that came with the bows would warn of not storing them in high heat conditions like your closed up car or truck in the beating down sun. The fiberglass limbs of today are all one material to my knowledge so no delamination risk. Its just a block of fiberglass.
 
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