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Bow out of tune mid-season

wdarby

wdarby

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Messages
234
Location
New Hampshire
I shoot through paper every few weeks to check the tune of my bow. It held up for a couple of months, including my trip to NY - probably 40 climbs total. I shot through paper again last night, and I had a left tear. My rest hasn't moved, so what would cause this? Also wondering if other people recheck their bow tune mid-season?
 
A change in grip pressure will affect tune. Cable stretch will affect tune. Rest timing, etc. There's a ton of reasons it can change. When I only shot compounds, Fridays were "tuning" days where I checked and made adjustments if needed.
 
wdarby said:
I shoot through paper every few weeks to check the tune of my bow. It held up for a couple of months, including my trip to NY - probably 40 climbs total. I shot through paper again last night, and I had a left tear. My rest hasn't moved, so what would cause this? Also wondering if other people recheck their bow tune mid-season?
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When something like this happens (change in flight without any obvious bow change) after the string has been on the bow a while....it is almost always the shooter (grip change and not squeezing the trigger are the two culprits for me). I wouldn't change anything until you have time to really see if it is the bow or not. Same goes with sudden shifts in point of impact, it is usually me having a bad day.
 
Agreed with folks saying don't change anything based on one day's shooting.

Tune your bow on a day where you feel good and shoot good. Scratch lines into your riser, rest, sights, etc so you can tell if they move. Check your cam timing and measure your ATA. Then you have something to look at the next time it seems to be tearing wrong. If nothing on the bow has moved and the arrow hasn't changed, then you know it's the nut behind the sight that got a little loose.
 
Nutterbuster said:
Agreed with folks saying don't change anything based on one day's shooting.

Tune your bow on a day where you feel good and shoot good. Scratch lines into your riser, rest, sights, etc so you can tell if they move. Check your cam timing and measure your ATA. Then you have something to look at the next time it seems to be tearing wrong. If nothing on the bow has moved and the arrow hasn't changed, then you know it's the nut behind the sight that got a little loose.
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Agreed on the witness marks, but I like a silver sharpie because if you have to legit move something then the sharpie comes off with some rubbing alcohol. It is very durable and if you ever see it start to fade, then just put a dab more on.
 
What bow? Dual cams? Quality string? Agree with everything already said above.
 
What brand bow and model do you shoot? Lots of factors here, new strings this season? Is your peep twisting at all? Could also be cam lean. My terrible hoyt has split yoke cables and they are notorious for needing an extra twist if I’m shooting a lot.
 
Thanks for feedback. Interesting my grip changed in the middle of the season - but I appreciate the nut behind the sight comment in particular.

I shoot a Hoyt Helix Ultra.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
wdarby said:
Thanks for feedback. Interesting my grip changed in the middle of the season - but I appreciate the nut behind the sight comment in particular.

I shoot a Hoyt Helix Ultra.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
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Well a form change is just one possibility, and the most common one, but anything can happen. Grip change also typically induces a left or right tear.

The way I grip the bow can get wonky if I'm not shooting regularly (which I don't during season). Noticing that my bow is not shooting right is often a cue for me to practice. I like to shoot bare shafts to check form. If they are flying right at 20 yards, then I know I'm good.
 
Form could have broken down. It happens to everyone regardless if they want to admit it. Measure the ATA and Brace Height on your bow, make sure it’s still in spec. If you tuned it yourself you should remember what center shot was so check that as well to be sure you haven’t bumped your rest on something and thrown it off. Don’t know if you have nock points tied onto your string but you should do that so that if you ever have to tie a new d loop on you don’t lose the nock height you tuned your bow to. If everything is exactly how it should be, break yourself down to the basics and blank bale for a few rounds and try shooting through paper. If it’s still off make the adjustments, then walk back tune and Broadhead tune. Missing a day of hunting to get your equipment and confidence back to day one will be better than missing an animal or making a bad shot causing unnecessary suffering to the animal as well as yourself. Good luck and shoot straight!


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Maybe a silly question however I am going to ask it anyway. If you are doing your check outside are you now wearing gloves and or a winter hat since it is colder out? Gloves are a culprit for me and I know a winter clothing in general has an effect on my form/anchor point.
 
I shoot through paper inside. I also tried my old bow and it was still shooting bullets. Could still be form - maybe something got bumped. Need to save the measurements this time.
Thanks again

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
wdarby said:
I shoot through paper inside. I also tried my old bow and it was still shooting bullets. Could still be form - maybe something got bumped. Need to save the measurements this time.
Thanks again

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
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If the bow is still shooting well, I wouldn't change a thing. A perfect bullet hole means nothing. In fact some of telhe most accurate bows I've ever shot didn't shoot perfect bullet holes.

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dbow0603 said:
If the bow is still shooting well, I wouldn't change a thing. A perfect bullet hole means nothing. In fact some of telhe most accurate bows I've ever shot didn't shoot perfect bullet holes.

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I get a bullet hole through paper, then walk back tune, typically the walk back negates what I did to get a bullet hole.


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Re-Bow said:
I get a bullet hole through paper, then walk back tune, typically the walk back negates what I did to get a bullet hole.


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Click to expand...

Good flight is more important to me than having axes aligned so that 20 yards and 60 yards hit dead on and not 1 inch apart.

I find that if I set my rest to centershot and then do almost all left-right tuning with my yokes that once I get bullet holes with bareshafts and bareshafts and fletched hit same point at 20 yards....then walk back tuning isn't necessary and also broadhead tuning is seldom necessary (maybe the smallest micro bump of the rest that your eye can see). Have you tried this?

With modern binary cams, you can't adjust cam lean to that fine of a level as you can with hybrid cams and yokes (well until bowtech and elite came out with their new systems). Typically, you have to find the shim combo that gives the best overall performance with an acceptable rest position, and a lot of tuning is done with the rest.
 
raisins said:
Good flight is more important to me than having axes aligned so that 20 yards and 60 yards hit dead on and not 1 inch apart.

I find that if I set my rest to centershot and then do almost all left-right tuning with my yokes that once I get bullet holes with bareshafts and bareshafts and fletched hit same point at 20 yards....then walk back tuning isn't necessary and also broadhead tuning is seldom necessary (maybe the smallest micro bump of the rest that your eye can see). Have you tried this?

With modern binary cams, you can't adjust cam lean to that fine of a level as you can with hybrid cams and yokes (well until bowtech and elite came out with their new systems). Typically, you have to find the shim combo that gives the best overall performance with an acceptable rest position, and a lot of tuning is done with the rest.
Click to expand...
Yes. The BT deadlock and elites set tech is the best.

You can do it with a older bowtech binary as long as it has split cables on both limbs. That's why that system was so awesome. Set your rest center shot, adjust yokes. Done deal.

The tophat and shimming crap is just a pain. As long as Mathews continues to use AVS and tophats I won't even consider buying one.

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