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Cheap Stuff that Gets the Job Done

dollar fifty gizmo and an old shoelace. Tie shoelace to gizmo. Cut shoelace accordingly. Attach to rappel line before descent and tend ur backup friction hitch as u rappel. Breaks the hitch much easier if it's being stubborn letting go. Acts kinda like the wire release on ropemanScreenshot_20230301-061142~2.pngScreenshot_20230301-061147~2.pngScreenshot_20230301-061153~2.png
 
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Byrd pocket knifes. I've had 1 long enough to use and abuse and it's got weldabeast seal of approval. Definitely not the best but definitely not the worst. Sharpens quickly and holds an edge fairly well. I'm not gonna be too sad if/when I loose it..I think this is the cara cara and it's too large for my liking so I gonna pick up a robin as well


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boyne bowhunter said:
This is the gear hanger I'm going with this year. In the past I have used a Amsteel daisy chain that I girth hitch to the tree and weight with my pack (which serves double duty as my knee pad). The issue I've had in the past is that I need to have the pack on the daisy chain for it to support the weight of the bow. That means I have to lower the bow before I put my pack on or take my pack off my back before I can bring up my bow.

I decided to try the Cable Cuff as advertised by the always resourceful @always89y ($1.25 at Home Depot).

Easy, cheap compact bow hanger

Thought I would share. 1. Getcha a $1.25 "Cable Cuff" (I like medium) for the Home Depot 2. Take off the hook 3. Run a gear tie through the hole Excellent gear hook, easy to see, packs great and can hang on your gear strap, branch or anything else. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
saddlehunter.com

To attach I simply ran a length of paracord through the eye where the screw was removed. To that paracord I added two paracord prusiks, one to provide the adjustable girth hitch using a keychain carabiner and the other to support my pack which has another keychain carabiner on the handle loop.

The pluses: Small and light, Cinches to the tree without needing to be weighted, Provides an infinite adjustment for my pack height (daisy chain sometimes was either just slightly too low of slightly to height), plastic hook is quiet, CHEAP and Simple.

The minus: I need to remember to hook the keychain carabiner through both prusiks so they don't unravel and fall off when not in use.

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Excellent an inexpensive suggestion. Thanks!
 
boyne bowhunter said:
This is the gear hanger I'm going with this year. In the past I have used a Amsteel daisy chain that I girth hitch to the tree and weight with my pack (which serves double duty as my knee pad). The issue I've had in the past is that I need to have the pack on the daisy chain for it to support the weight of the bow. That means I have to lower the bow before I put my pack on or take my pack off my back before I can bring up my bow.

I decided to try the Cable Cuff as advertised by the always resourceful @always89y ($1.25 at Home Depot).

Easy, cheap compact bow hanger

Thought I would share. 1. Getcha a $1.25 "Cable Cuff" (I like medium) for the Home Depot 2. Take off the hook 3. Run a gear tie through the hole Excellent gear hook, easy to see, packs great and can hang on your gear strap, branch or anything else. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
saddlehunter.com

To attach I simply ran a length of paracord through the eye where the screw was removed. To that paracord I added two paracord prusiks, one to provide the adjustable girth hitch using a keychain carabiner and the other to support my pack which has another keychain carabiner on the handle loop.

The pluses: Small and light, Cinches to the tree without needing to be weighted, Provides an infinite adjustment for my pack height (daisy chain sometimes was either just slightly too low of slightly to height), plastic hook is quiet, CHEAP and Simple.

The minus: I need to remember to hook the keychain carabiner through both prusiks so they don't unravel and fall off when not in use.

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I may have responded before now but you inspired my gear hanger. 6' of Paracord threaded through a cable cuff like you specify. Thru a camjam hook. 3 paracord Prussics with plastic carabiners to hold pack, quiver, etc. Works great, even if it does like to tangle up on me.
 
I'm sure I'm not the first to do this but I started to do this with my aiders and it cost a couple of zip ties and maybe some heat shrink if you want to add that. In order to make it easier to get my feet in my aiders(especially if the tree leans at all) I put 2 zip ties about 4" long and maybe 5" apart on the aiders(I use either hose or heat shrink on my aiders). Cinch them down as tight as possible and point them at a 90 degree angle towards the tree. These act as aider standoffs and make climbing much easier especially trying to get your foot in it coming down in the dark. The zip ties in the pic are probably 50-75lb rated zip ties but I'm switching them much bigger/stiffer 250lb zip ties now which work better.

fwiw this pic was a trial I did and I don't use this small webbing for aiders. It works the same w amsteel aiders with some type of hose on it.
 

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phorizt said:
I'm sure I'm not the first to do this but I started to do this with my aiders and it cost a couple of zip ties and maybe some heat shrink if you want to add that. In order to make it easier to get my feet in my aiders(especially if the tree leans at all) I put 2 zip ties about 4" long and maybe 5" apart on the aiders(I use either hose or heat shrink on my aiders). Cinch them down as tight as possible and point them at a 90 degree angle towards the tree. These act as aider standoffs and make climbing much easier especially trying to get your foot in it coming down in the dark. The zip ties in the pic are probably 50-75lb rated zip ties but I'm switching them much bigger/stiffer 250lb zip ties now which work better.

fwiw this pic was a trial I did and I don't use this small webbing for aiders. It works the same w amsteel aiders with some type of hose on it.
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I did this a couple of years ago with an aider I built with amsteel & 1/4" fuel line. Works pretty good but keeps moving and you have to make sure to check that they are 90 degrees to the tree before climbing.
 
Torges tree seat. Easy to make if you have any woodworking skills. It consists of a roughly 12x12 piece of 1/2 plywood and some nylon boat rope. Weighs very little and costs maybe $10.00 to make. You can add a cushion for comfort.
 

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TreeCreep said:
I would have to think this has made it on here multiple times..
US Army Molle II ACU waist pack. ( Army surplus or eBay /Amazon )
Versatile pack for scouting or climbing method/ ropes/ ROS.
Sub $20 tyd is USA made & can be worn on waist, as a sling , added to pack or hybrid.View attachment 77851View attachment 77852
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I use this for my kill kit. Everything I need and can be strapped on my bag or left in the truck. Use around waist, over the shoulder or hand held. Great, cheap pack.
 
Yimmyb60 said:
I use this for my kill kit. Everything I need and can be strapped on my bag or left in the truck. Use around waist, over the shoulder or hand held. Great, cheap pack.
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I sewed elastic loops in mine so I can organize it better.

For public land hunting where I need to go back to get my sled and thus drop off my hunting stuff, these fanny packs work great as a kill kit.
 
Red Beard said:
Did I ever show yall my wind checker? Ran a piece of 550 cord through a cotton ball and attached it to a front belt loop. Pull off a tiny bit when you need it and let it fly. Works great. Always within reach. Single cotton ball will make it through most of the season.
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This would be great if I could stand to tear a cotton ball…it’s like nails on a chalkboard for me and makes me my back twitch just thinking about it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
FrankNess14 said:
This would be great if I could stand to tear a cotton ball…it’s like nails on a chalkboard for me and makes me my back twitch just thinking about it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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You're not the only one but I thought I was until now. The weird squeak they make between two fingers gives me shudders too.
 
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