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Climbing spurs?

Shane6491

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
533
Location
Williamsport, PA
Thinking about buying a set of spurs. What’s the best option out there? I’m not looking to spend an arm and a leg but do want something that will last. I’m new to saddle hunting but spurs seem legit. Rn I use WE steps with JC K&S. I do hunt some private so would like to try a set of spurs.
 
Thinking about buying a set of spurs. What’s the best option out there? I’m not looking to spend an arm and a leg but do want something that will last. I’m new to saddle hunting but spurs seem legit. Rn I use WE steps with JC K&S. I do hunt some private so would like to try a set of spurs.

Bang for the buck would be the Climb Rite aluminums with ultralight pads. People have been selling used pairs for right around $200, you can't beat that. My pair with quiet buckles weighs 4.5 lbs.

Shoot for the moon would be carbon fiber Gekos or Kiwi Klimbers, but you'll be right around $600 for a new pair. You'll also only save just over a pound compared to the aluminum spurs. I've seen used Gekos listed for $400, and got scooped up in minutes.
 
Thanks for the information. Just over a pound idk if that’s worth the extra cash. Mite just go with the cheaper option. So definitely want aluminum ones not steel. I’ve seen steel ones for pretty cheap but idk what they weigh. I’m sure a lot more then the aluminum
 
Thanks for the information. Just over a pound idk if that’s worth the extra cash. Mite just go with the cheaper option. So definitely want aluminum ones not steel. I’ve seen steel ones for pretty cheap but idk what they weigh. I’m sure a lot more then the aluminum

The weight difference Isn't nearly as much as you would think. I think the aluminum climb rites are around 4.5lbs for the pair and my steel Buckingham's were just over 5lbs.
 
The weight difference Isn't nearly as much as you would think. I think the aluminum climb rites are around 4.5lbs for the pair and my steel Buckingham's were just over 5lbs.
Yeah and a lot cheaper too lol now I don’t know what I want to do lol. Thanks for the info there is a set on classifieds rn steel I believe pretty cheap.
 
We use spurs in our tree business all the time. Any professional arborist will tell you spurs should only be used if you are removing the tree. When pruning or hunting spurs cause damage to trees and should not be used. Spurs increase the spread of disease and insects as well as other issues. Just my professional opinion. Lets protect out forest and lands for all of us to enjoy.
 
Im using the alum climb-rights and quite happy with them. I bought them with the light weight pads and threw the pads in the trash first time using them. Had much better comfort with the leather pads such as the buckinghams. Also i have better climbs using pole gaffs rather than tree gaffs. Just my 2 pennies....
 
We use spurs in our tree business all the time. Any professional arborist will tell you spurs should only be used if you are removing the tree. When pruning or hunting spurs cause damage to trees and should not be used. Spurs increase the spread of disease and insects as well as other issues. Just my professional opinion. Lets protect out forest and lands for all of us to enjoy.
Yeah definitely won’t be using them on state land. I do hunt some private land but still I hear ya on protecting our environment. Spurs seem to be the bees knees tho for climbing wile saddle hunting. Now you got me thinking it’s not worth the investment lol. I appreciate the input man.
 
We use spurs in our tree business all the time. Any professional arborist will tell you spurs should only be used if you are removing the tree. When pruning or hunting spurs cause damage to trees and should not be used. Spurs increase the spread of disease and insects as well as other issues. Just my professional opinion. Lets protect out forest and lands for all of us to enjoy.
So as a professional is there gaffs that don’t hurt the trees as much ? I know there are longer /shorter ones but do they all do the same damage ?
 
I’ve got a pair that I’m planning on giving one more fair shake this next season. If I don’t incorporate them into my system on a more regular basis by then, I’ll be selling them.
I absolutely love the mobility of them, but any property I can legally use them, I can also use bolts. Bolts are a tad slower, but I like that the tree is good to go for the rest of the season after my first climb.
Also, I use the carbon bolts (not recommended for use) so the bolt system is MUCH smaller/lighter.
 
I’ve got a pair that I’m planning on giving one more fair shake this next season. If I don’t incorporate them into my system on a more regular basis by then, I’ll be selling them.
I absolutely love the mobility of them, but any property I can legally use them, I can also use bolts. Bolts are a tad slower, but I like that the tree is good to go for the rest of the season after my first climb.
Also, I use the carbon bolts (not recommended for use) so the bolt system is MUCH smaller/lighter.
Yeah basically I’m on the fence. I hunt a few places that are private but mostly state land. So I just don’t Know if it’s justifiable to get them to use them two or three times a year. I’m new to this and have WE steps and Jc K&S and it works just fine just trying to find an alternative way to climb.
 
The aluminum climb rights are awesome...do the mods that greg from G2 outdoors suggests and I believe you will love them...super quick and quiet!...and the learning curve isnt nearly as bad as I thought...thumbs up for me...as for damaging the trees?...ive seen climbers scar trees and 25 years later the tree is fine...we also tap 35-50 trees a season for syruping...you drill a 3/8" hole about 1 ½" deep in the tree for the tap...end of season you just pull the tap...been tapping the same trees for 20+ years and see no problem whatsoever...just my observations
 
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