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climbrights

T

Torque_tune

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Messages
93
hello guys,
new to this whole saddle thing. the wealth of knowledge on this site is ridiculous. actually my cup runneth over when im trying to filter out what I need to know now and what I should hold off and learn a bit later. I came across a used mantis. everything seems fine. chose a platform, solo scout with a squirrel step attached to either side.

now im to the climbing method. my gut is telling me to go with the climbright modified for hunting. that's where I am now. mind you, I know this information is available here. its just impossible for me to find it, compile it and retain. if someone could shoot me a couple of links or something that would be great. I just want to buy a good pair and mod them into efficiency. I hunt private exclusively.
 
Just use the search option and type In spurs. You’ll get tons of content. YouTube hunting climbing spurs and you will get tons of content there too.
 
thanks for the help. Ended up getting ultralight aluminums. The gaffs were a whole different animal. I went with pole gaffs. I hope I don't regret it.
 
I have used spurs over 20 years for work, here is my 2 cents, pole gaffs are better for smaller tight bark trees, the gaff will obviously be shorter on a pole gaff so your foot is closer to the tree and feels more natural and also puts less torque and strain on your ankles, on a tree with shaggy or loose bark tree gaffs shine, you need deeper penetration on trees like that, which in turn reduces spur kick out, I have both on the truck for work, but mainly use tree gaffs because thats what I am used too and know they can handle anything I throw at them. Have your spurs kick out and plant your face in the tree once and your pants will be full I guarantee it, you will also truly appreciate that flip line when that happens. For hunting and new users who climb only during hunting season I think pole gaffs are a good choice, just remember the shaggy bark type trees are not ideal, a couple practice climbs you will understand what I mean. As far as some of the DIY mods guys are doing to there spurs for hunting reasons, I completely understand why and please don’t take this the wrong way but those lower and upper straps that come with your spurs from the factory are tested extensively and are made for life support. I would reccomend practicing with what comes with your spurs from the factory first and then go from there. Hope this helps. I run aluminum bashlins with tree gaffs for work with big thick cushy pads, my hunting spurs are aluminum bashlins with pole gaffs and some no frills leather t pads, they are light and standard issued equipment, they are not super comfortable but get the job done.
 
Torque_tune said:
thanks for the help. Ended up getting ultralight aluminums. The gaffs were a whole different animal. I went with pole gaffs. I hope I don't regret it.
Click to expand...

I’ll trade my tree gaffs for your pole gaffs anytime.


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So my spikes came in today. I Was crazy excited. Climbed a few trees that are eventually going to get removed. I think i am in love. I had a spike kick out which was my worst fear and everything was ok. That boosted my confidence and raised my alert level. If I can get these easy on and off ,get them quiet and transition on to my solo safely, my needs are met
 
Thats awesome! Just remember to trust your flip line and by leaning into it and keeping that angle your spurs will do all the work, newbies usually grab the tree to much pulling themself into the tree and losing that all important angle/contact the spur makes to prevent kick out. Most spur kick outs happen when a guy gets his flip line hung up on a limb stub or something on the back of the tree and is leaning into the tree too much wrestling the line off the obstacle, thats what makes a stiffer rope nice for a flip line, instead of leaning in so much just give it a flip, my work flip lines are cable with a rope sheath.
 
Topdog said:
Thats awesome! Just remember to trust your flip line and by leaning into it and keeping that angle your spurs will do all the work, newbies usually grab the tree to much pulling themself into the tree and losing that all important angle/contact the spur makes to prevent kick out. Most spur kick outs happen when a guy gets his flip line hung up on a limb stub or something on the back of the tree and is leaning into the tree too much wrestling the line off the obstacle, thats what makes a stiffer rope nice for a flip line, instead of leaning in so much just give it a flip, my work flip lines are cable with a rope sheath.
Click to expand...
Well said

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