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Consistent Arrow Flight Problems

TJutte

TJutte

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
74
Recently installed a new Trophy Taker Takedown drop away rest, replacing my whisker biscuit. Prior to doing this, my bow was shooting great with vaned arrows, and I hadn't fired bare shaft.

After installation, I cut the vanes off of one of my arrows, and it always flies severely fishtailed nock left. Moving my rest left or right had no impact on flight, but I did find a position that allowed my point of impact to remain consistent.

My bow is a 2016 Hoyt Defiant, 70#, 28" draw. The first bare shaft arrow I fired is 29" 260 spine Easton Axis with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain field point. I then tried a 150 grain point, no change. I thought it might be a spine issue, so I cut the vanes off of a 28" 400 spine Cabelas Carbon Hunter with 14 grain insert and 150 grain point - no change.

I'm guessing my yoke is out of tune - but wouldn't I have seen this with my biscuit? Also, I noticed when I shoot my bow tired (I like to exercise before/while/after shooting sometimes) that I pull into my wall hard. Can this throw off my cam alignment, and should I remove my limb stops for a more cushioned back wall?
 
I would definitely start with putting the rest back at center. I think the 400 grain is gonna be a weak spine for you. Not sure on the 260 spine. Adding weight up front will only make weak spine worse.

If you have or can get to a draw board you can check your cam synch and timing of the stops.

Knowing your bow is tuned before playing with paper tuning or nock tuning is key to keep you from going crazy.

Also ensure your grip is good and consistent as well. Poor form will give you bad results as well.
 
Mattfish is right,grip is huge. I have my bareshafts dialed in now,but if i focus on torquing left or right i can make the bareshaft go tail left or right. Just a little though,if you got severe tail left or right and your a close to centershot your cams need attention.
 
I am facing a similar problem. I definitely am noticing the effect that grip torque has on bare shaft flight. It causes significant tears. I’m also thinking incorrect draw length accentuates the problem. I keep my draw length a little short to prevent string slap and as a result I find myself pushing the riser away from me a little when the release comes off the string causing me to torque. I never noticed this shot form flaw until I started bare shaft tuning. Maybe something to look out for...
 
mattfish said:
Bowmanmike can you do me a huge favor? Could you PLEASE tell my wife that!!!! She is convinced that it is not possible in any situation.

Ever.
Click to expand...
Ok,i can. We are all right some of the time...some more than others.
I am familiar with that situation though,been married for 21 years.
 
My god if y’all werent right. Took a day off shooting to let my muscles and mind rest, hydrated properly and only shot a couple arrows.

Straight bullet holes, i was torquing my grip as a result of shooting tired and trusting my IQ bow sight too much.

The difference between ( • ) and (• ) in my IQ sight is astonishing. Bullet hole vs 8 inch lateral tear on paper at 7 yards and small(>2”) tear at 30. I now notice a different feel of the grip in my hand when I’m not “gripping” the bow. Tempted to put tape over my IQ torque bubble so i focus on hand feel more than bubble center.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TJutte said:
My god if y’all werent right. Took a day off shooting to let my muscles and mind rest, hydrated properly and only shot a couple arrows.

Straight bullet holes, i was torquing my grip as a result of shooting tired and trusting my IQ bow sight too much.

The difference between ( • ) and (• ) in my IQ sight is astonishing. Bullet hole vs 8 inch lateral tear on paper at 7 yards and small(>2”) tear at 30. I now notice a different feel of the grip in my hand when I’m not “gripping” the bow. Tempted to put tape over my IQ torque bubble so i focus on hand feel more than bubble center.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

When I got my iq sight I thought I had it settled in and ran into the same problem. Throw some tape over it like you mentioned or just ignore it until you get results then reset it. That’s my only gripe with that bubble. Once I was getting the results I wanted I set the bubble while shooting paper to make sure it was right. I really like that feature though, I had it on my last bow and my peep wasn’t tied in good and must have caught on something in my truck or walking in and slid the peep down. Well some hogs came in and I trusted my peep and not the bubble. First shot gave the hog a hair cut on his back. Luckily it ran a circle and I trusted the bubble on the second shot and drilled him.


Sent from parts unknown
 
Glad you figured it out. I’m still trying to find a solution that works for me consistently. Thinking that lengthening my draw length setting a little is in the cards but that will mean changing everything else in the setup. Before taking that action, I need to get some 300 spines to compare against my 340’s just to make sure I’m not under spines.
 
Sounds like your in business.

The one thing I was going to mention is the release hand.
You can cause similar effects by how you are holding the release hand, how you clock it relative to your face and the presence of tension.

It's easy to see, sometime when you shoot turn your hand in and out shoot different positions and you should see what I mean.
Years ago I had trouble with this using my wrist release. I used to point my trigger finger forward and set it on the trigger prior to the shot.(I never did like sweeping across to discharge)
It was causing my wrist to feel ok cause I use the release body along the corner of my mouth.

Anyhow I got a more consistent hand placement and shot by opening all my fingers like if I were applying brakes on a bicycle. Then I trigger with slight expansion of my elbow rather than a feel of pulling a trigger.
Feels very different but is only a few shots to get use to..
 
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