• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

DIY Saddle

SHIPWRECKDD992

SHIPWRECKDD992

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2018
Messages
63
Hi all,

Deer season is coming to a close in a few weeks here in my area. I have been using a saddle for 2 seasons and love the entire setup. I am now wanting to use my sit drag and RCH as a back up and make a new saddle. I am interested in the kestral style saddle. I've bee watching videos and reading instructional information on how to make one that is safe and will last.

Here is my issuse. I have aquired most of the materials I need to make this project a reality. 1. how weight bearing is the seat material? 2. can I sew this on a regular sewing machine with a heavy duty foot and needle? 3. Is there a site or publication that has patterns for a guy who is 5'7" and a size 31 waist?
 
Send it man! Check out the DIY Sewing Thread for info and load bearing stitch patterns. I'm about the same size as you and I used some camo fabric from Joann's Fabriks and some Guttermans upholstery thread. I've hunted out of mine all season and it is rock fricken solid.
 
If the machine will sew 3 layers of webbing it will be fine. All the strength is in the webbing, seat material is mainly for comfort. Saddles like the Anderson, wraptor, and wraith don’t have anything other than webbing.
 
Marc W said:
If the machine will sew 3 layers of webbing it will be fine. All the strength is in the webbing, seat material is mainly for comfort. Saddles like the Anderson, wraptor, and wraith don’t have anything other than webbing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for clarifying this. I was just about to ask after reading the first two posts which didn't mention any webbing.
 
Im using 2" seatbelt material rated for the automotive industry. No i didn't cut my seatbelts. I found my material from an odd source. I found it in a junk yard for considerably less than new. I got mine from a 2 year old vehicle that got wrecked (Extended cab truck rear seatbelts). The other webbing comes from wratchet straps of various working loads. minimally the working load on those straps are 750lbs, the seatbelt is rated for much more than that. the lightest webbing I am using is for the molly straps which is rated for 500lbs more than I will ever need. the fabric for the seat is rip stop in the multi cam pattern. bridge is going to be the same as I am using now which is a 7mm climbing rope and my tether is 11mm climbing rope. I do not intend on getting a ropman or any other mechanical device. I've been using blake's hitches and prusik knots for over 30 years in my profession and have never had any kind of slippage in any weather condition.
 
@DanO has some seat belt webbing at Eastern Woods Outfitters for a really good price . I bought some generic 2" webbing from REI before I knew this. I considered junkyard seatbelt webbing but new seems to be only a little more in cost. I still have not gotten around to a DIY saddle with my 2" webbing.
 
When it comes to a picknpull you have to be careful. My picknpull has been around for quite some time and I've been going there for years. I think I paid like 2 dollars for my webbing but it helped I was there for a few things so I got the bulk discount. The belts I got did smell a little when I got them but a couple days outside and in the shade sorted out that issue. When the saddle is completely finished I'll wash it in my hunting detergent and air dry.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top