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Diy stick questions.

Cwy81

New Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
7
Alright guys I'm building a set of 4 sticks for next season. Using 23 inches of 1x1x1/8 6061 aluminum. 20" step spacing .Going to be making my own steps out of 1/4' 6061 flat bar. Wanting to make them side stacking like the new sticks tethrd is testing out. So here's my question. Is 1/4 thick enough to use for the steps? Seems plenty strong. But I do way 220# and saving weight isn't worth the price of safety. should I weld two pieces of 1/4" together to make half inch for the step? Also another option is to weld a piece of 1/4x1/4 bar along the top edge and down along where the tube meets the step to keep the step from rotating on the stick, make a wider usable pad to step on and save weight vs a full 1/2" step? Really open to opinions here. Trying to be safe but light weight as possible. Also what size holes are people drilling into the tubing to lighten the tube. And how much weight does it get rid of. I'll get some pictures updated to this today or tomorrow to help with the understanding of what I'm saying if anyone is confused. Thank you
 
You mentioned welding. If welding is an option then i would use the same tubing for the steps. I would think it would be cheaper, stronger, and possibly lighter. Less sexy though.

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Using 1/4 flatbar or whateveryou got Cut your step. Find the center of that step and mark. Measure 1/2 inch on either side of that line. Measure from the line to the end of the step. Cut 1/4 flatbar and weld. You'll have 1'' channel for the post and 1/2 standing area. The 1/4 flatbar will bend on its own
 
This is what I was relating to with the 1/4 on top, and on the whole step. Center will be left without to fit around the stick.
 
3/8" works nicely as a step thickness in my experience.
If I had 3/8 available I would use it but I'm getting all of said material for free through my work as drops off of the CNC laser. Otherwise I would use 3/8 and mill it like yours
 
I would assume your leaning towards the option where the whole step is covered? Or would just the 1/4" top and middle suffice like the first picture? Figure it would have the same rigidity as a piece of angle does with the top leg giving the bar a back bone so to speak
 
Bevel the edges good so the weld can flow down into the valley you create with the grind.... You want to get real fancy double the hole size on your next plate and fill with rosette weld

What you got going on will work good IMO. Just keep an eye on them.... They'll want to bend in toward the tree
 
Bevel the edges good so the weld can flow down into the valley you create with the grind.... You want to get real fancy double the hole size on your next plate and fill with rosette weld

What you got going on will work good IMO. Just keep an eye on them.... They'll want to bend in toward the tree
That was the original plan with the holes and then I got the idea of less material. Lol. Plan on beveling both pieces of material and tig welding them tomorrow. May end up making an extra with the other design just out of curiosity to test and see if I can find failure points in either of them
 
20191206_205216.jpg20191206_205156.jpggot my steps made up today and fit to the tubes. Seems sturdy as can be. Just waiting on my standoffs to show up and I'll get them fully assembled with the correct hardware and start putting them to use
 
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