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Drt climbing

N

Njjb122

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2021
Messages
60
So i recently purchases a kit from wesspur as ive been going through every climbing method for saddle hunting i like it and think its a good method for preset locations with that i wanted to ask if you guys that use this method noticed certain footwear being better then others ive only tried it with my red wing hiking boots for whatever reason my feet slip right off the trunk of the tree i think something that had a more aggressive sole would prlly be better im just wonder if others had a similar issue or is it just a technique issue
 
I’ve only been doing DRT for a year so I’m not an expert but I think what is most important for “foot traction “ is to be on the correct side of the tree when trying to climb you want gravity pulling you into the tree.
If your on the wrong side no boot sole will help due to gravity pulling you away
Hope that makes sense.


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mucks suck for drt. Got some rockies version of mucks with more promise. However. getting a footloop and ascender and you dont neeed to touch the tree again.
 
From what it sounds like I assume you're body thrusting up the rope. You're probably trying to sit too upright in the saddle. Lean your upper body further back, that'll help you thrust your hips more to get the weight off the rope for each pull and your feet more used for balance on the tree, not traction. Body thrusting isn't the easiest way up a tree by todays standards but with good technique it's not bad actually. I used to tie my hitch with a really long bridge (section of rope from the hitch to where It's connected on the saddle. Not the bridge on the saddle, you want the saddle bridge short) so with each thrust you're getting a full arm extension worth of hitch movement. Too short and it makes thrusting much harder IMO.
 
Just keep up practice n you'll be doing it in crocks like me, but I have been climbing this way for 18years
 
I tried the footloop i had the swaider from my we step climbing its nice but i thought the standard way was a bit easier all the footloop did was make it easier on my hands...i guess its just gunna take more practice like anything else. im using gravity to my advantage to keep myself into the tree but when i go to hip thrust i end up pushing off and swing away from tree...i was almost debating making something with small spikes like golf cleats that would strap to my boot to get a good purchase into the tree bark...i know petzl doesnt advise using the grigri and hand ascender on 11.4 mm rope "predator rope" but ive heard others say theyve used it with no issues so i might try srt and make my own judgment call on the rope
 
Ct hand ascender is rated upto 13mm rope. Petzl does make a bigger version of the Grigri if you do want to go that route.
 
I think @Treehopper2 nailed it. Some trees are impossible to climb unless you have a footloop or use good footlock technique.
Practice will make all of it easier. I learned last year to not throw my line over tight crotches,the bark eats the zing line and you will have to cut it off.
 
This was my first year climbing with DRT I have enjoyed it. I had one pair of hikers that would slip off the tree. Switch to boots with airbob soles they work great.
 
Njjb122 said:
Can you put a link in to that grigri i dont see any rated for rope over 11mm
Click to expand...
rope-master.com

Descender I'D S (10-11,5mm)

The self-braking I’D S descender is primarily designed for work at height and rope access work. It has an ergonomic handle that allows comfortable descent control. The integrated anti-panic function and anti-error catch limit the risk of an accident due to user error.
rope-master.com rope-master.com

They also make one called the Maestro that takes 12-13mm rope.
 
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