• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Extreme Cold Saddle Hunting

BassBoysLLP

Well-Known Member
Vendor Rep
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
3,096
Who does it? I love hunting extreme cold. 20 below zero and even colder isn't out of the question. These are some of my favorite times to hunt. Saddle hunting on the other hand is a challenge and I'll be the first to admit that I find myself using conventional methods that work better with my cold weather clothing (HBS usually but also have IWOM). Any tips?

I have also given up on cold weathwr filming. It doesn't work in extreme cold. A sock and hot pack keeps the fluid head fluid but the footage comes out like the blair witch project sometimes. Any tips?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I've been out down to about 0. I don't hunt out of treestands anymore so its only the saddle. All the times I have been out that cold have been pre-sets, it just makes life so much easier. I have been using the cabelas stand hunter extreme coveralls. This year I'm trying the sitka fanatic because it packs down a little better but I only got to wear it once in the low 30's. I'm sick and out of commission right now, I'm just hoping I can get back out there for our winter bow season in January.

Whatever I wear late season, I will put it on at the base of the tree. It includes lots of activated warmers.
 
I've been out down to about 0. I don't hunt out of treestands anymore so its only the saddle. All the times I have been out that cold have been pre-sets, it just makes life so much easier. I have been using the cabelas stand hunter extreme coveralls. This year I'm trying the sitka fanatic because it packs down a little better but I only got to wear it once in the low 30's. I'm sick and out of commission right now, I'm just hoping I can get back out there for our winter bow season in January.

Whatever I wear late season, I will put it on at the base of the tree. It includes lots of activated warmers.
I'd be interested in how the sitka performs regardless. I don't expect it to perform great in sub zero temps. At some point bulk and packability no longer make sense when staying stationary. It's all about maintaining temperature of the core and keeping appendages at core temp.

Regardless, Sitka seems like a great option for normal cold.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I'd be interested in how the sitka performs regardless. I don't expect it to perform great in sub zero temps. At some point bulk and packability no longer make sense when staying stationary. It's all about maintaining temperature of the core and keeping appendages at core temp.

Regardless, Sitka seems like a great option for normal cold.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I've done -15 a few times. It sucks. A neck gaiter is imperative at those temps and I pull it up over my face.

I have the stand hunter , the fanatic and the incinerator sets. My stand hunters are old and don't have the wind stopper. That combined with the bulk made me retire them.

I then bought the incinerator set. They are really warm, and being down, they pack up really small. But...... They seem crunchy and loud when cold. I have been meaning to wash them a few times though see if they soften up...

That brings me to the fanatic set. It seems to be a good compromise between bulk and warmth. I found them used for a great deal and couldn't pass them up. They have become my go to set. Most importantly, they are dead quiet. I have used them at 15 below in a snow storm, but I also had kelvin pants and a kelvin jacket under them. I was plenty warm.

I use a lot of hand warmers. Usually a few in my hand muff and then when it's really cold, on my kidneys and base of my neck.


If you are buying the Sitka gear, I highly suggest buying the jacket one size larger than you normally would. Once you get the bibs on, the jacket is really tight if you buy your normal size.

Then you spend six months trying to find someone to trade you sizes....


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I went on YouTube and this guy was on there and he made a open foot camo sleeping type bag with shoulder straps . The blanket was made out of fleece. Looked pretty warm
 
I've done -15 a few times. It sucks. A neck gaiter is imperative at those temps and I pull it up over my face.

I have the stand hunter , the fanatic and the incinerator sets. My stand hunters are old and don't have the wind stopper. That combined with the bulk made me retire them.

I then bought the incinerator set. They are really warm, and being down, they pack up really small. But...... They seem crunchy and loud when cold. I have been meaning to wash them a few times though see if they soften up...

That brings me to the fanatic set. It seems to be a good compromise between bulk and warmth. I found them used for a great deal and couldn't pass them up. They have become my go to set. Most importantly, they are dead quiet. I have used them at 15 below in a snow storm, but I also had kelvin pants and a kelvin jacket under them. I was plenty warm.

I use a lot of hand warmers. Usually a few in my hand muff and then when it's really cold, on my kidneys and base of my neck.


If you are buying the Sitka gear, I highly suggest buying the jacket one size larger than you normally would. Once you get the bibs on, the jacket is really tight if you buy your normal size.

Then you spend six months trying to find someone to trade you sizes....


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Sitka sounds promising. Thank you

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Here's part 1 of an article on hunting in the cold I wrote last year


Dressing for bitter cold and wind


The most challenging part of hunting beyond mid-November is supposedly being “tough enough” to remain on stand for long periods of time in frigid and oftentimes miserable weather conditions. Trust me on this one, how strong or seemingly tough you are has absolutely nothing to do with it.

I’m a buck 60 pound guy that gets cold very easily yet I would guarantee if “The Rock” and I were to plan an all-day sit in single digit temperatures with 20 plus mile an hour winds, he would definitely be the first one to cry uncle and go back to wherever its warm whereas I know I could sit comfortably all day. Why, because I live in northern Michigan and have learned how to dress for and what other measures to take for hunting in severely inclement weather conditions and there’s absolutely no reason you can’t as well.

Dressing for severe weather is a learned process and how tough you are or think you are is irrelevant. How you dress from the top of your head to the end of your toes will dictate how long you can comfortably remain on stand in frigid conditions which can and in most instances will have a direct correlation to how successful you may be.

I remember as if it were yesterday a December morning muzzleloader hunt in 1976. It was 5 degrees and a group of 5 does and fawns came through and were met by a spike buck. Four of the does and fawns ran off but one doe stayed and within moments the spike began breeding her a mere 30 yards in front of me. I shot the spike buck while he was mounted on her with a .54 caliber T/C Renegade and he just hopped off as if nothing happened. I couldn’t reload because my fingers just wouldn’t work because they were so cold and within a few moments he took off running and expired about 150 yards later.

That’s when sticking it out that little bit longer was about being stupid, stubborn and not caring about my health because I used to get sick every season from hunting in cold weather without proper gear. With today’s garments, boots and other things used in conjunction with them, those days of shivering, chattering teeth, cold feet, and blue fingers are a thing of the distant past, or they should be.

From the top down, this is how I keep warm in inclement cold conditions and keep in mind I’m doing this and maintaining a proper scent control regimen in the process:

Far and away my first choice in an exterior cold weather suit is ScentLok’s Vortex jacket and pants. Vortex garments have deep napped fleece exteriors with polyurethane windproof membranes to both block wind and hold in your body heat. This is a no frills affordable suit that can be worn for temperatures from 10 degrees to 40 degrees as it allows for many layering options.

Lastly would be a ScentLok Covert Deluxe jacket and pants. Covert garments have deeper fleece exteriors and interiors than the Vortex and offer more features and come with the same polyurethane windproof membrane. Due to its deeper napped interior fleece Covert garments are warmer than Vortex garments and I only wear Covert garments in 10 degree and below temperatures.

While membraned exterior garments might be relatively quiet in a 70 degree store, the colder it gets, the noisier the membranes become. During cold weather with no foliage to absorb sounds, if there is no wind every noise will seem amplified. The only way to make exterior garments quiet is by masking the noise of the membranes with an exterior high loft fleece and the Vortex and Covert garments both have that and are QUIET during cold weather whereas most other brands of waterproof garments have short napped micro fabric exteriors and are very noisy in cold weather.

No matter how windy or cold it is, on long entries I dress down and only wear a base garment under my Vortex or Covert exterior garments and pack all my other layering garments in a ScentLok backpack (another brand backpack that’s frequently washed in scent free detergent and kept in an air-tight container will also work).

Carrying my layering garments in a backpack allows me to walk comfortably to my stand without overheating and once on stand and my body cools down, I put on the upper body layering garments from my pack.

My upper and lower body base garments will be either ScentLok’s Active or Summit weight garments or medium weight Merino wool (not regular wool as it itches) base garments. The ScentLok garments have an anti-microbial treatment as well as an activated carbon liner and Merino wool has a natural odor adsorbent quality as well so either will add to the longevity of my ScentLok exterior clothing. I don’t wear heavy weight base garments because they are too heavy and cause me to overheat and for another very important reason I will get into later.

Wearing all my clothing in would make me sweat which would make my bottom layers damp and cause me to become cold very quickly after sitting motionless for a while. Why? Because sweat or moisture on my bottom layers conducts cold much quicker than if the layers were dry. An example is if you stood outside wearing only a T-shirt on a 35 degree day you would withstand it quite a while before hypothermia set in whereas if you jumped in 35 degree water you’d succumb to hypothermia within minutes.

Items in my pack used for upper body layering once on stand are military wool sweaters, Rivers West’s Cold Canyon waterproof/windproof vest, River’s West’s Cascade Mountain waterproof/windproof jacket (used as a layer item only). A vest is great to have as one of the layering garments because it helps keep my core body warm while allowing arm mobility and I use the Cold Canyon vest because it’s also waterproof/windproof.

A windproof exterior jacket and pants are vital to staying warm and waterproof/windproof undergarments simply add to that warmth as on cold windy days the wind would eventually penetrate through all my clothing if my exterior suit or top layer below it was permeable. Over the years I’ve discovered that no matter the amount and type of insulation an exterior jacket and pants have, if they aren’t windproof the cold will in short order get through and if it’s windy it will happen very quickly.

An easy example to understand is when you put a washed waterproof and or windproof membraned garment in the dryer and run it through a cycle, you have to turn the arms of the jacket or legs of the pants inside out and run them through another cycle as they will not be dry from the first cycle. Just as the membrane kept the dryer heat from penetrating through and drying the insides of the arms and legs, the membrane will keep the wind from penetrating the garment and will keep your body heat contained within the garment.

For my lower body I typically wear just one base garment and on rare windy occasions may wear 2 base garments and I always wear all my lower body clothing in because I can’t redress my lower body while on stand and my legs never seem to sweat during long entries or get cold while on stand.
 
Part 2 on hunting in the cold

Extremeties


To keep my head warm in 25 degrees and above temperatures ScentLoks Full Season headcovers with drop down facemasks are sufficient and for temperatures below that I wear a beanie over the headcover or wear ScentLok’s Fleece Radar Headcover with drop down facemask. I would never consider wearing any of ScentLoks headgear that didn’t have a drop down facemask.

A scent control regimen is not complete unless my entire face (not eyes), hair and neck are completely covered as any of those gaps will compromise my scent control regiment. I don’t hunt on TV and video fantasy land properties where mature bucks are far more tolerant of human odor and a plethora of other tolerable human related things and I doubt you do either.

To camouflage what little is left of my face, once on stand and cooled down I put on a Spand-O-Flage facemask with eye-holes cut out and then put the Scent Lok headcover over it. Even though this is stretch mesh, it keeps my face warm and they are washed in scent free detergent frequently.

I always wear my Scent Lok exterior suit to my stand so as not to leave human odor on any vegetation I may brush against. This is very critical when walking through tall weeds or marsh grasses which I do a lot of. I typically only have my bottom layer on under my jacket so as not to overheat with long entries and put on my layer garments once in my sling and cooled down.

Insulated boots display temperature ratings that are rather meaningless because they are walking ratings, not sitting still ratings. While I own many pairs of rubber and neoprene boots for differing temperatures, those 1,200 and 2,000 gram insulated rubber boots and Mucks Arctic Sport boots are OK when temperatures are in the 25 to 40 degree range, but they will not keep my feet warm when sitting long hours in temperatures below 25 degrees, no matter what the hang tag says.

I own 7 pairs of boots with removable insulated liners and 4 of them were purchased back in the 70’s and of course are no longer made. The current insulated pack boot of choice is made by Baffin and the model name is Titan. They are the only knee high rubber boot with removable insulated pack that’s still made that will keep my feet warm.

Due to the lack of breathability, on long entries and sits the sweat from your feet will dampen your socks, liners and inner boot. After every use with a pack boot, the liners need to be removed and both the liners and the interior of the boots need to be dried with an electric boot dryer so that you start each hunt with dry boots and liners.

In the 1980’s I came up with a solution to a major problem with long entries. On Federal land my morning entry was a little more than two miles from the parking area and by the time I was on stand my socks and liners were wet from sweat. After a couple hours of being on stand the single digit temperatures froze my feet and forced me to abort the planned all-day hunt.

The next day I put 2 pairs of wool socks in my backpack and did the following: Wore a pair of regular white socks, covered them with plastic grocery bags, and put on my pack boots for the long walk in. At the base of the tree I took off the bag and white socks and put on the dry socks, placing the wet sweaty socks and the grocery bags in a gallon Zip Lok bag. I then had dry boots, liners, socks, and feet, and was able to sit on stand all day as planned.

ScentLok has many socks offerings and my preference is their wool thermal or merino thermal socks. You definitely don’t want your socks to be so bulky that and once your boots are on they seem too tight. You want your socks to fit in your boots as if you’re wearing shoes and I’ll tell you why in a bit.

Wool is a unique natural fabric in that it will retain some heat even when damp or wet, no synthetic fabric does that. While I’m not concerned about foot odor because the non-breathable rubber boots contain it, ScentLok’s wool socks have silver and carbon technology that kills bacteria, adsorbs foot odor and they’re comfortable.

Heavy insulated gloves are a pain for bowhunting because you lose your sense of touch. Scent Lok’s Savanna gloves or Full Season gloves are my current choices. I hated Scent Lok’s gloves in the past but they have a new source and are much better made. These gloves contain Carbon Alloy so if you properly care for them and have to touch stuff during entries it will not be a factor. I use a quiet hand warmer muff with a waist strap (it’s frequently washed in scent free detergent) and inside it I put a Grabber air-activated Mega warmer (bigger than a hand warmer) to keep my hands warm. The waist strap will keep the muff in place during a shot opportunity.

The biggest secret in the Industry on keeping warm

Remember the name Grabber as I’ve been using their air-activated warmer products for years and have found them to be the most reliable warmers in the industry.


Grabber’s air-activated Peel-N-Stick Body warmers are what I call “The Love”. They were originally introduced into the medical marketplace for people with arthritis and unlike Hand, Toe, and Mega warmers that allow temperature fluctuations according to the amount of air they receive, these gems maintain temperatures between 130 and 145 degrees at all times. When strategically placed, they keep me toasty warm and extend my hunting time until I’m tired of sitting. There is absolutely no way in bitter cold weather, even with my layering system, that I could remain on stand as long as I do without Grabber’s Peel-N-Stick Body warmers.

For optimum heat, I wear a mid or lightweight base garment and once on stand and my body cools down from the entry, I typically stick one body warmer over each kidney or if I only use one, will place it over my sternum. These are stuck onto the base garment and then all my other layering garments and jacket are zipped up and the heat is sealed in.

The severity of the weather dictates how many I’ll use as on a hunt in minus 25 degree temperatures I had one over my sternum, one over each kidney and one on my headcover yet under my beanie and one on my back at the base of my neck.

Body warmers last for 12 hours so once a hunt is over, while still on stand, open your layers and peel them off, stick them together (perpendicular to each other) and put them in a quart size Zip Lok freezer bag and flatten it out and seal it. This cuts off the air supply (deactivates them) so they can be used again.

Warning: Do not use Grabber’s hand, toe, or mega warmers against your base layers as they can cause burns because they do not have controlled temperatures.

I also use Grabber’s air-activated hand and mega warmers and usually keep them in my pockets unless wearing a hand warmer muff. These too will be stored in the same Zip Lok bag as my body warmers if I think I can get another hunt out of them.

In extreme cold I put Grabber’s adhesive Toe warmers on top of my socks over my toes before putting on my boots. While these are designed for breathable work boots like leather and Cordura that allows air in and in turn odor to go out, in hunting boots that only allow air in from the throat of the boot, they don’t get very warm because they don’t get much air. That’s why you want an air pocket above your socks in the boot and with liner boots some air will get in when you move your feet, yet the foot odor will be adsorbed in the ScentLok pantlegs that are draped over the boots. Don’t wear leather or Cordura boots as they will destroy any scent free regiment as they let air in and out over the entire boot.

Hunt safe and stay warm
 
Back
Top