EZ Kut Tree Bolts

[justsomedude]

Any one else using these?
http://www.ezkutproducts.com/products.php
Or old Tree Hopper?

Here is the whole setup wrapped in a Ranger Band.


I have the hand drill and also got the power drill bit.
Got a smallish Lithium Ion 12v Drill (my 18v is a bit bulky and heavy).
Drilling holes with a power drill only takes a few seconds.
You pull out the bit without reversing it and it removes the sawdust from the hole.
The Bit is preset to make the holes the correct depth.

Make sure you get the right Bolts!
6" Grade 8
If they aren't Grade 8, they will bend.
I weigh 215lb and they don't bend.

Bolts are about $1 each and can be bought at any hardware store.
You MIGHT have to go to a few stores if you are buying 20 at once (I had to go to 2 stores).

I Plastidip them up to where they should be in the Tree (easy to see if they aren't going in far enough) and it keeps them quiet and hides them on the tree.
You could dip the ends in Flo orange if you are worried about not seeing them on the way down.

I carry a small Shoulder bag with 15 Bolts and the Hand Drill and it weighs 4lb.
The Shoulder bag makes them easy to reach going up and easy to put away as I climb down.
If you cram them into a small pouch, it is harder to access them without dropping them (was for me).
I also put a pair of Ratchet Pruners and a Laplander Folding Saw, Orange Flag Tape and Trail Marking Tacks in the bag.

The Bolts are the same size as the hole.
They aren't THREADED into the tree....you just push them in going up and pull them out by hand as you climb down.

You can drill the first 3 or 4 while still on the ground (the hand drill doesn't work well reaching up too high).
I put the 1st one even with my left knee, 2nd on the right at my waist, 3rd on Left at my Chest, 4th at the top of my head and the 5th is about as high as I can reach.
With holes predrilled I usually place 5 before I start climbing.
I know that people space steps out more than that but I HATE that feeling of overextending/fishing around for the next step down.

I space them about 20" apart (use my Elbow to Fingers as a guide).
I usually only use 12, but often go ahead and drill 15 so I can use the highest ones as hand grips while I set up.
If you space the width carefully, you can get them where they won't be constantly catching on your Lineman's belt.
I like having extras in case I drop one or if were to kick one out (hasn't happened).
I keep extras in my car.

The only downsides: You have to drill holes in the Tree, and they aren't comfortable to stand on for long with thin soled shoes (I like to hunt in Moccasins when I am ground hunting!).
The holes COULD freeze up under the wrong conditions. We'll see.
If you dropped one from a tree it would be hard to find (so are screw steps).
Drilling a tree by hand and hunting it immediately is doable but can get tiring (depends on the tree).
You need to make good use of the Linesmans Belt and keep a good easy working angle so you don't burn out your legs standing at odd angles.

BENEFITS: If you hunt private land you can go around and pre-drill a bunch of trees.
The holes will last all season (and you have the hand drill if you need to clear one out a little) and they grow back in.
I am pre drilling at least 10 trees right now and will be able to pop around depending upon the wind and my mood...
After I drill a tree, I mark it with a Glow Tack and a small orange tape flag.
And then I mark the Trail near the Tree.
AND I mark it on a Topo Map that I have gridded out for easy coordinates.

Compact.

 

[redsquirrel]

I have seen the tree hopper before. It looks like you have a great system in place.

I have 40 trees pre-set with screw in steps so I am always looking for sales on them because I need so many. If I could use these bolts for $1 a piece that would save some money. How do you think this system would work if I were to leave the bolts in the tree? I like to have everything easy and ready to go when I get to the tree. It sounds like you are doing everything almost identical to what I do. I also like to set my steps a little closer to make climbing up and down easier.. this pays off especially when it gets cold and you have more clothing on.

 

[justsomedude]

The only issue I can imagine with leaving them in the tree is that they will freeze in the holes.
I thought they would be scary to climb on but they scare me less than the sharp edges of some screw steps I used

40 Trees!?
Nice.

 

[redsquirrel]

The only issue I can imagine with leaving them in the tree is that they will freeze in the holes.
I thought they would be scary to climb on but they scare me less than the sharp edges of some screw steps I used

40 Trees!?
Nice.

Freezing in the holes wouldn't be an issue because they would be permanent anyway. Now that I think about it I guess the real issue would be they would be a 1 time use if I leave them in. At least with screw ins I can remove them if I want.

It has taken me a while to build up to 40 trees but each year I buy some more steps and add some more trees or move old ones I'm not happy with.

 

[justsomedude]

They'll come out in the thaw!
I haven't tried to remove a frozen Bolt.
Will be interesting to see if it happens.

Last season I hunted with them about 10 times all around late December/January.

 

[Extremesolo]

This is the exact method that I use the majority of the time. It is a little inconvenient to have to auger the holes but with a drill it is fairly easy. You can definitely prep a large number of trees but know that you will have to prep each tree each season as the holes grow shut every year. The holes without the pegs in are virtually undetectable so if this is allowed in an area where you hunt you can keep your stand locations a secret and not have someone hunting in your area because they saw your stand, climbing stick or steps.

 

[justsomedude]

The holes are so undetectable that you need to be consistent with how you place them!
Once, I had the bright idea of sticking something in the first hole with a flag on it so I could find it.
Went out to hunt and the marker was Frozen solid in the hole

I always place the first hole just above my Left Knee.
Then I'll be able to find the rest easily.

 

[bowhunterchuck]

JUST BOUGHT THIS DRILL AND BOLTS. GOT 35 OF THEM ON EBAY FOR $30 ! GRADE 8, 6 INCH. WILL BE USING THEM MORE FOR NEXT SEASON. I WONDER HOW THEY WILL WORK AS A PLATFORM ? (40 TREES ?)
BOWHUNTERCHUCK

 

[justsomedude]

The comfort of using them as a platform depends on the thickness of your boots.
They stick straight out and you only have about 3 3/8" to stand on AND the head of the bolt is on the end.

I wear pretty thin Boots until it gets really cold.
They aren't great to stand on unless you are on more than one at a time (tried that).
I don't particularly like Screw in steps either though...and I cut a pair of Boots on a step.

 

[justsomedude]

PS...

I rigged three trees today (used a Power Drill) wearing some LaCross Pac Boots without the liners.
The Bolts weren't too bad to stand on.
I was having to cut off branches and hang out longer than I wanted to and on some trees I was going a good 20+ feet up.

The main advantage to this system is the ability to re-use the Holes you made AND be able to take the Bolts with you to use on another tree AND they are cheap.

 

[redsquirrel]

Any thoughts on if this would work for my permanent setups if I screwed a slightly smaller hold and used a socket wrench or something to put the bolts in? Or do they make something similar to these bolts with a wood screw end? I'm thinking of cheaper ways to set up trees than the ameristep screw ins.

 

[justsomedude]

If you leave the standard bolts in the tree, they will stay in.
You can pull then out easily but I haven't had one come loose.
I mark them so I can see how far they are supposed to be in the tree for an extra measure of comfort.
And I would imagine that you wouldn't need to bother with Plasti-Dip if you won't be carrying them around.

I would imagine they would tighten up as the tree grows back.

How long have you left Screw in Steps so far?
I wonder when it becomes an issue to leave something permanently in the tree.

 

[redsquirrel]

Ok cool, I am going to look in to trying that. I think bowhunterchuck got some of those bolts pretty cheap on ebay.

I have some saddle trees that have been set up for 5 or 6 years. That was when I really started increasing my number of trees. After a couple of seasons the tree starts to grow around the steps. I have been able to take them out of trees that were set up 3 or 4 years ago, but that is starting to push it. I look at it as when I set up a tree, if it is a good tree the steps are never coming back out.

 

[justsomedude]

The Drill bit is the part you want to get right.
I tried making my own (with a bit from Home Depot) and it doesn't save any money and doesn't work as well.
http://www.ezkutproducts.com/products.php

For the bolts, you just go to the Hardware store.
GRADE 8 6" Bolts.
I have gotten them for $1-$2.25 each depending upon the finish and the store.

 

[Matty]

Hey guys, new to the forums, but not new to saddle hunting.

I've been using the tree bolts and hand drill for at least four or five years now. Absolutely love them for setting up tons of spots, and that's exactly what I do. My friend showed them to me and now my brothers and I all use them almost exclusively.

I drill out a ton of trees for the season and just have one set of bolts that I bring in and out with me.

Occasionally for hunting spots on the fly that I don't know if I want to commit to or not, I use Lone Wolf Mini climbing sticks the first time in the spot. Saves effort on hand drilling all those holes. If the spot ends up being one I will revisit, I'll drill it out. If not, I take my sticks and go home. No sweat equity invested. lol


For a platform I use one of a few different things. Sometimes I use the tree bolts. Sometimes I use cranford eze double fold steps...I also have a mini platform that my friend welded up, I designed it with him and it folds up to the size of a small book and straps on the tree with a lone wolf strap. My version is the prototype so it's steel and weighs a few pounds. His is aluminum and weighs nothing. They are pretty awesome for saddle use.
I also have the ameristep steps on a strap, but never thought of using a cam-over buckle on it until I came to this site. I stopped using the ameristeps because the original fastening system causes it to shift all over when you move side to side...and the ratchets are too dang loud.

A few of your concerns are real too.

In the winter, the main issue can be that if you bring your bolts in and out (like I do), snow and ice can fill in the holes and freeze. To remedy this, always carry your hand-drill and drill if necessary. Usually only happens to a few holes or on one side of the tree from snow. The worst is melting runoff though that fills the holes and refreezes, that's like drilling into rock.
If you leave your bolts in the tree though, just return after the thaw and pull them all back out like someone else suggested.

As far as knocking the bolts out, I've only done it once, but it left me in a precarious position. lol....I actually knocked it out while pulling my bow up in the dark. Went to climb down around lunch and kept searching for the one step....finally I realized the "plunk" in the leaves I heard that morning was a tree bolt. I had to take one out from above me and reach way down below me to install it. So it can happen, but with how much use I've put these things through, it's extremely rare, just be aware that it could happen.

Red, you mentioned leaving steps in trees for several years. I used to do that, but the freezing, thawing of the tree and the fact that it's constantly growing can cause stress on the steps. They can end up breaking off. It can be very dangerous so be very careful doing that.

I also don't exclusively hunt with the saddle, I also use a lonewolf assault hang on sometimes. So far this year though it's been all saddle.

I also modified my saddle by cutting off the leg straps (yes the leg straps, my friend who also uses a saddle and guidos web said I was crazy) been using it for several years like that though. Those stupid leg straps used to get caught on everything. People said you'll fall through it. Well for that to happen my arms would have to sheer off of my body at the torso, so I'm not too concerned. lol

You guys might also find the pine ridge strap on bow hook system and big game retractable bow hoist to be very helpful for quick, quiet, trouble free setups when you go mobile.


Good luck all - Matt

 

[justsomedude]

Matt,

You just reinforced why I always carry extra Bolts!
If I drop one, I can quickly reach another one.
I am trying to economize my pack load now...but don't want to cut it too close with the bolts.

 

[Matty]

Matt,

You just reinforced why I always carry extra Bolts!
If I drop one, I can quickly reach another one.
I am trying to economize my pack load now...but don't want to cut it too close with the bolts.

Definitely a good idea. Like I said it's rare and only happened to me that one time, but they can come out if you hit them just right.

If you ever find yourself without a spare bolt though and one goes plunk, just use one from above you to fill in the gap until you can get down to the dropped one. Worked for me and I'm far from my athletic days. lol

Now if you'll excuse me, I need to knock on wood now to make sure I haven't jinxed myself into a liftetime of dropped tree bolts. lol

 

[justsomedude]

Matt,

Other than "man up!", any tips on using the hand drill?
How many bolts do you tend to use and how long does it take you to get set up?
I only set up for an immediate hunt when I could go in the afternoon and stay up until dark.
Never felt like drilling a setup at 5:00am

At first, my error was in not being in a good position where I could relax with my Linesman's Belt...trying to drill too high above my head or out to the side.
And also in wearing thin soled shoes/boots (I run barefoot and wear minimalist sandals/moccasins when not hunting).
In the Winter with thicker boots and heavy socks with Felt liners it isn't bad standing on the bolts.

I also had bad luck with tree selection a few times. Getting the Drill out is the most annoying part.
Some trees just don't want to let go.

 

[redsquirrel]

Welcome to the site Matty!

I also have a mini platform that my friend welded up, I designed it with him and it folds up to the size of a small book and straps on the tree with a lone wolf strap. My version is the prototype so it's steel and weighs a few pounds. His is aluminum and weighs nothing. They are pretty awesome for saddle use.
I also have the ameristep steps on a strap, but never thought of using a cam-over buckle on it until I came to this site. I stopped using the ameristeps because the original fastening system causes it to shift all over when you move side to side...and the ratchets are too dang loud.

Let's see some pictures of that thing! If you ever want to meet up, I can show you the over center buckle in action, I think it works awesome.

Red, you mentioned leaving steps in trees for several years. I used to do that, but the freezing, thawing of the tree and the fact that it's constantly growing can cause stress on the steps. They can end up breaking off. It can be very dangerous so be very careful doing that.

Thanks Matty. I don't have too many trees that they have been in that long because they have worked there way out of the rotation, but I think maybe after this season I will take some time to go to all the older trees and back the steps out to relieve some pressure. I LOVE having the trees pre-set.

 

[Matty]

Matt,

Other than "man up!", any tips on using the hand drill?
How many bolts do you tend to use and how long does it take you to get set up?
I only set up for an immediate hunt when I could go in the afternoon and stay up until dark.
Never felt like drilling a setup at 5:00am

At first, my error was in not being in a good position where I could relax with my Linesman's Belt...trying to drill too high above my head or out to the side.
And also in wearing thin soled shoes/boots (I run barefoot and wear minimalist sandals/moccasins when not hunting).
In the Winter with thicker boots and heavy socks with Felt liners it isn't bad standing on the bolts.

I also had bad luck with tree selection a few times. Getting the Drill out is the most annoying part.
Some trees just don't want to let go.

Well, to be fair, I don't always use bolts for on the fly setups, only as a few at the top to get me higher and the platform. I usually use a combination of lw mini sticks and the bolts for on the fly hunting. The sticks go on so fast I'm at 12' before I think about foot pain.

I have worn regular rubber boots without a steel shank before though and I couldn't even finish setting up the tree....I had to give up....So I know what you mean. You need a good sole to stand on steps or bolts for an extended period of time. Especially if you may have eaten a few too many backstraps in your days like me. lol

A thick sole on the boot helps comfort immensely. I used to wear uninsulated Lacrosse Rubber Boots with the steel shank and they weren't bad, but I've been wearing these Cabelas boots all season now for a while. I just got a new pair since my last pair was wearing out and the only thing different was the tread pattern. Definitely a great boot: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas- ... archWithin

With a thin wicking sock in the early days, they aren't too hot for even somewhat long treks. And with a pair of liner socks and good synthetic socks they get me through the winter. I've found them to be a great boot for whitetail hunting here in the NorthEast. And I can actually rest on the bolt heads for a while without discomfort.

I also use pair of Under Armour Speed Freeks that aren't bad on the steps. Even though the sole is flexible it doesn't hurt. They have a shank in them too I believe. I got those for elk hunting, but I also use them for scouting, setting up trees back here at home. Incredibly comfortable boot that feels like a sneaker.

Anyway, I do use only bolts sometimes on the fly though and I usually use between 12-15 bolts in my setups. And I use the same distance from my top bolt to my "platform" as I use in all my steps to get me a little higher. (depending on the cover and shooting lanes)

The trick I've found to using the hand-drill is to keep it spinning really fast as you start to pull it back out. I start it out with both hands, as you're supposed to. one hand guiding, the other spinning. Once it's steady, I just use one hand and spin fast until it bottoms out on the collar. Once it hits the collar I keep spinning for a few turns. Then I use the other hand again to push it away from the tree using the collar while spinning it very fast. It works well to get it out easily when it's "stubborn".

As my hand drill has slightly dulled over the years, I've noticed it has gotten a little harder to pull it back out, but spinning it fast on the way out definitely works. If you stop spinning it becomes extremely difficult to pull it out. I mean you can take a break from spinning, but when you're pulling it out, you have to have it spinning pretty quick. I think it makes it easier because it keeps the saw dust built up inside channeling back out of the hole. But I could be wrong, all I know is it definitely helps. lol

Don't waste your time "unscrewing" it out, because you're just left with a clogged hole that you can't get a bolt in. Then you still have to drill it out again and the drill still gets stuck at the bottom and becomes difficult to pull out. Ask me how I know! lol

I also do one step per step. IF that makes sense. First I do as many from the ground as I can. Then I lineman belt up and go up until I'm drilling a hole at about chest high. This is well above the lineman belt so it doesn't interfere, nothing in the way. My lineman belt is around the same height as my "bent knee" maybe a little higher. There is already a bolt in the tree opposite my bent knee height and I use my elbow to fingertips to figure out approximate step gap. After that hole is drilled I move up one step, so now my weight is on the opposite foot and the other leg becomes the bent knee and get's to rest. Hopefully this makes sense.

If you drill too low, you'll end up in pain, or with the lineman belt in the way, or have to stand on one foot too long. That's when you run into problems.

The only time I have to stand on the same foot for a little while is while drilling in the platform bolts. And if you really wanted to...You could drill out two level steps at the last step height before your platform so you can stand on both feet. I don't usually do that, but it's only one more bolt.

Hope this helps and I think I covered everything. Good luck!



Forgot to add, I only use 3-4 bolts for the platform when I hunt on the fly. Ive even used as few as 2, but that can get a bit silly. I have never been able to get all the way around the tree on a deer anyway. So I always force myself to sit and think about where I need to be facing for a shot before I start climbing. This lets me keep my "can't shoot side" downwind. The chances of something shootable standing in my downwind side long enough for a shot is slim so why worry about it?


I'm also not 110% sure on the amount of time, but maybe 15 minutes to be fully setup with an arrow nocked. Everything I need is attached to my saddle, I only make one trip up the tree and I'm hunting pretty quickly and definitely VERY quietly...