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Feedback on tuning

HaunSolo

HaunSolo

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2020
Messages
225
I'm having some problems tuning my bow.

2014 Mathews Monster Chill R. Pulling between 60-64 lbs - I don't have a scale and I need to get one but I'm two full limb bolt rotations back from Max(70 lbs.). Draw length is 29 in.

Arrow is an Easton Carbon Bowhunter 6.5, 300 spine, cut to 30 inches. It has 3 blazer vanes, arrow wraps, 75 grain inserts, and 150 grain points/broadheads.

I've been shooting 150 grain field points all summer with good success at 20 and 30 yards. Last week I threw on 150 grain Magnus stingers and they did not fly like my field points. I remembered that I needed to tune my bow. I followed instructions for bare shaft tuning a whisker biscuit(what I have) from AJA. At 13/16ths center shot my point was hitting about 3 or 4 inches left of my nock. I can correct that by moving my rest but it takes about 1/4" of adjustment to the left - is that too much?

I was able to get my bare shaft to group with my field points but the issue I have is my rest is moved so far left that I have run out of adjustment to my sight to compensate. Basically, I can't move my sight any more to the left so at 20 yards I'm about 3 or 4 inches left of my aim point with my field points.

Am I overthinking this? Am I over spined? Is there a step I'm doing wrong?

Pretty flustered at the moment.
 
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I had this same problem recently trying to tune my bear Alaskan. After moving my rest all over the place I realized I would’ve been better off have my yokes/cables twisted instead of maxing out my rest adjustments. Took it to a shop, they twisted my yokes and cables as need and my rest tuned back out to 13/16 centershot again. Stingers started flying exactly the same as my field points
 
HaunSolo said:
300 - forgot to mention that in my post.
Click to expand...

With having a 150-grain point and 75-grain insert on a 30" arrow, you may be under-spined. Try a 100-grain point to see what effects it has on your bareshaft point of impact. But first set your center-shot back to where it belongs. Then shoot a bareshaft with a 100-grain field point and a bareshaft with a 150-grain field point and post the difference in your POI.
 
With your bow at rest lay an arrow on the rest side of your top cam parallel to the string. Typically it will run perfectly parallel to the string or (at the d loop) be closer to the string. Then do it to the bottom cam. The should be the same. Then draw the bow and anchor. Do your best not to move much and take a peek at your cams and see if the string is looking pretty straight off the cams. This should give you a pretty good idea if you cam lean is right. 13/16 rest is not a hard number. Get your rest where when you nock and arrow and look down from the top of the bow, the arrow is straight over the center of the stabilizer. That is a good place to start. Shoot. If you have a big tare try going down in point weight. If it doesn’t go away then forget about wasting valuable practice time and go to a bow shop. I’m all about DIY stuff but hunting season is fast approaching.
 
Thanks for the feedback. The arrow calculators recommended 250-300 for my setup. I'll try 100 grain points and see what I get.
 
I don't think the spine is the issue. I shoot 300 spine from a 60# ventum with a 200gr broadhead up front and they fly like darts. 30" DL,so the arrows are just under 30 I think...
I had to have the cams shimmed after I bought the bow used to get it tuned to me...
 
All - thanks for the replies. I'm going to reset the center shot back to 13/16ths tomorrow and swap out the point for a 100 grain point and see what I get bare shaft vs fletched.

If that doesn't work I have some 340 spine arrows with stock inserts that I can try.

If that doesn't work I'm throwing in the towel and going to my pro shop. I don't think he is a believer in heavy arrows but I just get what works for this season.
 
Also try nock tuning each shaft to make sure you’re shooting off the stiffest part of the shaft. So rotate the nock 1/4 turn, shoot to see if have any improvement. If not, rotate a 1/4 turn and try again etc. to see if you get a bullet or close to bullet.
 
All,

Today I went out and shot my 300 spines with 100 grain points(175 total up front). With a few rest adjustments to the left of my center shot my bare shaft grouped well with field points. I had to move the rest much less than I did with the 150 pts. After I moved the rest I shot at 20 and 30 yards and got good groupings(sub 3 inches at 30 yards).

I'm going to buy a set of 100 grain stingers and see how they shoot. Hopefully this was the fix. I feel much more confident in my direction now.

Thanks for all the help
 
HaunSolo said:
All,

Today I went out and shot my 300 spines with 100 grain points(175 total up front). With a few rest adjustments to the left of my center shot my bare shaft grouped well with field points. I had to move the rest much less than I did with the 150 pts. After I moved the rest I shot at 20 and 30 yards and got good groupings(sub 3 inches at 30 yards).

I'm going to buy a set of 100 grain stingers and see how they shoot. Hopefully this was the fix. I feel much more confident in my direction now.

Thanks for all the help
Click to expand...
That’s great.
 
Is this a new to you bow? Or have you made any changes like new string or rest? I had a similar thing happen when I got a new string put on my bow. The string was fine but the rest cord was too short and causing torque.
 
Cajunyankee said:
Is this a new to you bow? Or have you made any changes like new string or rest? I had a similar thing happen when I got a new string put on my bow. The string was fine but the rest cord was too short and causing torque.
Click to expand...

New to me bow. I bought it 3 or 4 months ago. Took it to my local pro shop and he looked it over and thought everything looked good. Only thing he changed was the peep sight and draw length.
 
Bow tuning/arrow flight problems are hard to diagnose over the computer. It could be a bow cam timing issue or rest timing issue. It could be an arrow spine issue. Or it could be shooter form issue.

What would help to determine the direction to go to correcting the problem is to shoot thru some paper and see how the arrow is leaving the bow. You can take a big piece of cardboard and cut out a large square hole and tape some paper over the square hole. Then set the cardboard up shoulder height and shoot thru it with your bow a few feet from it while at full draw. You can shoot a fletched arrow with a field point or bareshaft with a field point. There are YT videos about paper tuning that you can watch if needed.

Good broadhead flight starts with good arrow flight. If the bow is punching good holes thru the paper, then you will usually get good broadhead flight. Having a make-shift paper tuner is a good thing to have around to check arrow flight when problems arise. You can make a paper tuner out of PVC pipe or 2x4s or cardboard. You can buy a big role of masking paper for $7.50 at Harbor Freight and it lasts forever.

Paper tuning can help to diagnose bow problems, arrow problems and shooting form issues. A paper tuner helps with the process of elimination to get down to what the problem is.
 
Cajunyankee said:
Does your limbs accept the top hats. Here is a link
To some information.
www.archerytalk.com

Mathews Chill R Top Hat Question

www.archerytalk.com www.archerytalk.com
Click to expand...
I had a very similar issue last year with my Mathews Halon. I couldn't get it to paper tune without moving the rest so far left that I couldn't adjust the sight. Changing it the top hats fixed it for me. The problem was it was hard to find a shop to do it for me. The local shop didn't know how to change top hats (not sure how you can be a Mathews dealer and not offer this service), so I had to drive an hour away to a better bow shop to get it done.
 
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