First time saddle purchase need some advise

[Pathfinder]

Hello to all!!!
I need a little advise as this is gonna be a change for me. I will say that I have some extensive time in tree saddles as I am former tree arborist where I climbed a ton and work with cranes a great deal. Always thought of using them for hunting and have set tons of stands while wearing them. Never hunted from one though and have made the decision to jump into the game. Many reasons for doing so but with my time spent as a guide in Iowa and living my whole life in the state of Maine both places present a ton of reasons why saddles may be the way to go. In Iowa LOTS of “Wonkey” trees that don’t grow straight and in Maine tons of trees that have tons of branches. Also in Maine I hunt vast tracks of land where it’s common to measure your walks in by the amount of miles you cover not yards. I do have commercial saddles for tree work but they are heavy and loud not good for walking or packing in at all!!! I also have multiple hang on stands and a summit viper climbing stand. Hang on stands are great but the time I spend setting 8-10 hang on setups I could use time better scouting. Our “Big Woods” deer up here aren’t as predictable as the deer in set up on while guiding in Iowa. Up here in Maine mobility can be absolutely the key to killing big deer. Just like in Iowa being able to utilize the tree in the best position instead of making do with one you can get a stand in would be key.

With all that being said I’ve spent hours and hours watching YouTube and reading comments on forums here. I really think this is gonna change the way I hunt. Right now carrying my viper climber is my best option but loaded for long sits and long walks in my stand weighs in as much as 35lbs.Try not to get sweated up walking 3miles in up a 2500-3000ft elevation change for basically an all day sit. Now I realize it’s gonna be different for everyone and let’s trim the all day sit to 4hr sits. I think I’ve narrowed it down to 3 but need some opinions/advise as I’ve never saddle hunted. No preference in any order to these choices but here they are and a thought or two on why

Latittude Method: super lite, tons of micro adjustments, back support without needing back band

Cruzr XC: hammock like, looks real comfortable in sitting position, ability to attach dump pouches for my gear

JX3 Hybrid: seems as close to treestand as you can get and still be taking advantage of saddle mobility, the ability to use as my back pack, questioning whether I can shoot from the sitting position with my bow, seems to be best option clearly if I only gun or crossbow hunted.

Again I have no preference in any of these but need some advise from those who have used them and what they have experienced while using them.

Thx and looking forward to reading reply’s!!!

 

[Hunter260]

Welcome to the site! I’ll say that if you really want to dial in a good system you should spend 95% of your time, money, and energy picking a good, lightweight, packable climbing system. That’s by far the key to mobile hunting. The platform and saddle are probably 5%, even though that’s what most everyone focuses on.

 

[raisins]

I've never read someone say "I bought a Cruzr XC and just couldn't get comfortable in it". It's more like "I've not found a way to make this thing uncomfortable".

I walk in with a 32 liter pack and use the pack waist belt to carry the load. The Cruzr is big walking in and it wasn't comfortable with the pack belt on top of the saddle belt and it kept pushing the saddle down as I walked. Easy problem to solve, I just put the Cruzr in a mesh sack attached to my pack and put it on at the tree.

A lot of people can walk in ultralite with just their saddle (with dump pouches on it) and a light pack. If you want that to be you, then walking comfort is important. I walk in pretty deep and knew I needed a really good pack that could carry a good amount, so how the saddle walked or held objects wasn't a concern.

 

[Pathfinder]

I am planning on buying Lone Wolf custom double steps with a two step Aider for the bottom step. I’m estimating 15-16ft without stretching with heavy cloths for me. Early season might get a bit more but up here in Maine as much as I would like 20ft 15ft will do just fine 95% of the time. Platform I’m undecided right now. I know I’d like ability to stand up on it for a break but that’s a like not a need for me most of the time as even something like “Artisans” stick platform may work for me I believe.

 

[Hunter260]

I am planning on buying Lone Wolf custom double steps with a two step Aider for the bottom step. I’m estimating 15-16ft without stretching with heavy cloths for me. Early season might get a bit more but up here in Maine as much as I would like 20ft 15ft will do just fine 95% of the time. Platform I’m undecided right now. I know I’d like ability to stand up on it for a break but that’s a like not a need for me most of the time as even something like “Artisans” stick platform may work for me I believe.

If you want that extra 5 feet, I suggest trying out a 2 step aider on just the bottom stick. They’re so much easier to climb 5 feet off the ground than 15 feet, and instead of climbing down it most of the time you can get to it on the way down and jump off. A Single 2 step aider should get you at least 4 feet higher

 

[JakeFromVirginia]

As others mentioned, the big choice is what you use to get up the tree. If your were an arborist, I’d think DRT climbing rope and a throw ball would be something you’d chose? I’m new to DRT but love it and am getting better with the throw ball. I tried all manner of sticks, steps, etc. but all were too much to carry and took time to setup and I just hated it.

I hunt National Forest hiking in 2 miles and up 1-2k elev climbs. The DRT method really changed the game for me. I almost sold my saddle before cause I hated climbing sticks.

 

[Pathfinder]

If you want that extra 5 feet, I suggest trying out a 2 step aider on just the bottom stick. They’re so much easier to climb 5 feet off the ground than 15 feet, and instead of climbing down it most of the time you can get to it on the way down and jump off. A Single 2 step aider should get you at least 4 feet higher

Ya that was my plan was to use the 2 step Aider on the bottom step. Like I said 15ft will be very effective height 95% of the time even though 20ft is preferred for bow. Most of the woods I hunt are so thick that you actually start to limit your shots the higher you get unless on the edges of clear cuts and swale swamps. Bow hunting it doesn’t matter but we do a great deal of gun hunting and from the ground 50yds can be tough to see, 15ft 100yds+ is common, 20-25ft you go back down to that 50yd distance because of overhead canopy.

 

[Pathfinder]

As others mentioned, the big choice is what you use to get up the tree. If your were an arborist, I’d think DRT climbing rope and a throw ball would be something you’d chose? I’m new to DRT but love it and am getting better with the throw ball. I tried all manner of sticks, steps, etc. but all were too much to carry and took time to setup and I just hated it.

I hunt National Forest hiking in 2 miles and up 1-2k elev climbs. The DRT method really changed the game for me. I almost sold my saddle before cause I hated climbing sticks.

It would have been my choice 20yrs ago. Now I’m not so sure I could my out of shape big butt up that way. I could also see myself catching my throw ball square in the face in the dark on a deflection off a limb with a bad throw.

 

[raisins]

As others mentioned, the big choice is what you use to get up the tree. If your were an arborist, I’d think DRT climbing rope and a throw ball would be something you’d chose? I’m new to DRT but love it and am getting better with the throw ball. I tried all manner of sticks, steps, etc. but all were too much to carry and took time to setup and I just hated it.

I hunt National Forest hiking in 2 miles and up 1-2k elev climbs. The DRT method really changed the game for me. I almost sold my saddle before cause I hated climbing sticks.

This would still feel limiting to me. When I hunted with a climber (which can be almost as light as a saddle set up because you hardly need anything), I was always hunting for trees that would work rather than trees in the right spot. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the various rope techniques you have to find a tree with a sturdy branch/fork that you can get a rope/ball around and also gives you a decently straight shot (so really branchy = no?). That introduces the opposite issue as the climber. Versus....climbing sticks or steps = any tree.

I just posted a detailed post showing my 4.6 lbs climbing method that is very secure and uses steps (and can get you to 24 feet).

 

[Pathfinder]

This would still feel limiting to me. When I hunted with a climber (which can be almost as light as a saddle set up because you hardly need anything), I was always hunting for trees that would work rather than trees in the right spot. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the various rope techniques you have to find a tree with a sturdy branch/fork that you can get a rope/ball around and also gives you a decently straight shot (so really branchy = no?). That introduces the opposite issue as the climber. Versus....climbing sticks or steps = any tree.

I just posted a detailed post showing my 4.6 lbs climbing method that is very secure and uses steps (and can get you to 24 feet).

For me the DRT method is a great idea if you can do it and I see the benefits of it. I just know it wouldn’t be for me now. Sticks are my best option after considering all the options. Screw-in or drilled steps are illegal in my state unless written landowner permission.

 

[raisins]

For me the DRT method is a great idea if you can do it and I see the benefits of it. I just know it wouldn’t be for me now. Sticks are my best option after considering all the options. Screw-in or drilled steps are illegal in my state unless written landowner permission.

My method is public legal strap on steps that is more secure than any strap step method I have used/seen (order of magnitude more secure than Cranford rope steps and lighter than any strap step that uses a metal buckle). It can get you to 24 feet lighter than any 4 stick method (which would have to use aiders to get you as high)....until the Tethrd One sticks come out, then with aiders you can get as high as my method with the same weight since One sticks will be 1 pound each. 8 steps (less than 3 pounds) can get you to hunting height reliably (16 feet). (EDIT: the carbon sticks also would work, but carbon sticks or Tethrd One stick cost over $500 to get 24 feet unless you one stick)

description/review of amsteel buckleless treehopper step climbing method after 20+ hunts

I described on someone else's thread a while back how I was going to try an amsteel daisy chain method with treehopper steps. I developed that and used it for the past 20 or so hunts and this will be my method until maybe I switch to Tethrd One sticks with aiders. Any critiques or suggestions...

saddlehunter.com

 

[DroptineKrazy]

Welcome to the site fellow Mainer! Where abouts are you located? I have a Cruzer xc and some Hawk Heliums you can try out anytime you'd like. Just shoot me a pm. My Heliums have Amsteel aiders on them too.

 

[Pathfinder]

[QUOTE="DroptineKrazy, post: 470408, member: 10377"
Welcome to the site fellow Mainer! Where abouts are you located? I have a Cruzer xc and some Hawk Heliums you can try out anytime you'd like. Just shoot me a pm. My Heliums have Amsteel aiders on them too.
[/QUOTE]
Southern ME for me Sanford. Ya that’s one of my choices for a saddle after looking at all the options. Do you tend to sit for long sits in it? Funny I say my climber is to heavy and the weight SUCKS that’s for sure but it’s more the way the weight sits and how cumbersome it is to maneuver through the woods on long treks into the woods. That’s why I’m also considering the JX3 Hybrid. If it’s like a frame pack then it should carry well and I’ve packed out my share of moose quarters now that weigh as much as 100-150lbs. so on a frame pack that sits well it’s work but not uncomfortable. But I wanna keep my options open before I dive in with both feet.

 

[DroptineKrazy]

I just started saddle hunting this year so the longest I've sat is about 4 hours. It was pretty comfy though. I tend to be more of a leaner but it sure is nice to take the weight off your feet and knees when you sit. I used to user a climber too. A Summit Viper and it sure was comfortable but it was pretty heavy and quite noisy and awkward going through the thick stuff. I have never tried the hybrid but it's supposed to be the Cadillac of saddles as far as comfort goes.

 

[JakeFromVirginia]

The recliner back strap that Tethrd makes is a must for me to sit longer than 2 hours.

 

[JakeFromVirginia]

This would still feel limiting to me. When I hunted with a climber (which can be almost as light as a saddle set up because you hardly need anything), I was always hunting for trees that would work rather than trees in the right spot. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the various rope techniques you have to find a tree with a sturdy branch/fork that you can get a rope/ball around and also gives you a decently straight shot (so really branchy = no?). That introduces the opposite issue as the climber. Versus....climbing sticks or steps = any tree.

I just posted a detailed post showing my 4.6 lbs climbing method that is very secure and uses steps (and can get you to 24 feet).

Finding a tree is a lot easier... when looking for the right crotch, you just need a limb bigger than your forearm as rule of thumb. The throw ball is the hardest part to do and I preset almost all my drt setups in the off season or a few days before I hunt a tree. Yes tossing a throw ball in dark or with pressure of trying to get it done to get up the tree is the downside to drt. Some trees I can throw my climbing line over without a separate throw ball and line. In all cases definitely takes more practice. But I’m finding it pays off. I am just now learning how to do a throw with my climbing line after climbing the tree to get up higher on another branch. If I can dial that in I’ll be more effective and will have more trees to climb.

 

[slydog]

Recon saddle, treehopper drill and bolts if you can drill trees. If not sticks of your choice until you decide if saddle hunting is for you. You can spend a lot more on a saddle but you will be hard pressed to find a better one.

 

[Noonan61]

Cruzr saddle, tetherd stand, a couple of steps on your stand strap and 4 beast sticks. I have tried everything, I’m done...... for now!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Pilk64]

Hello to all!!!
I need a little advise as this is gonna be a change for me. I will say that I have some extensive time in tree saddles as I am former tree arborist where I climbed a ton and work with cranes a great deal. Always thought of using them for hunting and have set tons of stands while wearing them. Never hunted from one though and have made the decision to jump into the game. Many reasons for doing so but with my time spent as a guide in Iowa and living my whole life in the state of Maine both places present a ton of reasons why saddles may be the way to go. In Iowa LOTS of “Wonkey” trees that don’t grow straight and in Maine tons of trees that have tons of branches. Also in Maine I hunt vast tracks of land where it’s common to measure your walks in by the amount of miles you cover not yards. I do have commercial saddles for tree work but they are heavy and loud not good for walking or packing in at all!!! I also have multiple hang on stands and a summit viper climbing stand. Hang on stands are great but the time I spend setting 8-10 hang on setups I could use time better scouting. Our “Big Woods” deer up here aren’t as predictable as the deer in set up on while guiding in Iowa. Up here in Maine mobility can be absolutely the key to killing big deer. Just like in Iowa being able to utilize the tree in the best position instead of making do with one you can get a stand in would be key.

With all that being said I’ve spent hours and hours watching YouTube and reading comments on forums here. I really think this is gonna change the way I hunt. Right now carrying my viper climber is my best option but loaded for long sits and long walks in my stand weighs in as much as 35lbs.Try not to get sweated up walking 3miles in up a 2500-3000ft elevation change for basically an all day sit. Now I realize it’s gonna be different for everyone and let’s trim the all day sit to 4hr sits. I think I’ve narrowed it down to 3 but need some opinions/advise as I’ve never saddle hunted. No preference in any order to these choices but here they are and a thought or two on why

Latittude Method: super lite, tons of micro adjustments, back support without needing back band

Cruzr XC: hammock like, looks real comfortable in sitting position, ability to attach dump pouches for my gear

JX3 Hybrid: seems as close to treestand as you can get and still be taking advantage of saddle mobility, the ability to use as my back pack, questioning whether I can shoot from the sitting position with my bow, seems to be best option clearly if I only gun or crossbow hunted.

Again I have no preference in any of these but need some advise from those who have used them and what they have experienced while using them.

Thx and looking forward to reading reply’s!!!

1. As an arborist are you against using spurs as a climbing method?...climb right makes a nice set of aluminums that you can cheaply modify to be comfortable, quiet and easy to install (see G2Outdoors on youtube)
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KJP36QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Uw8XFb06TW4J3
this makes an excellent backpack for carrying everything you need to bring into the woods to saddle hunt...very durable and very affordable...
3.Tethrd Phantom saddle, Tethrd Predator platform, ropes: (10' oplux linesman,10' oplux tether, 40'oplux rappel rope, madrock safeguard(rappel device), 3 biners, quick link, gear hoist, saw, branch snippers, 2 sys bags on saddle, kill kit(knife gloves drag strap etc.) , flashlight xtra batteries, HYS Gear strap, rangefinder, small binos, 2 squirrel steps, couple small biners for gear hanging and aluminum spurs all comes in at 17#...packs into a very tight, quiet, small package...easy to carry in and out easy system to perfect in the dark...I hope I remembered everything...LOL...Either way it all weighs in at 17#

 

[Pilk64]

Cruzr saddle, tetherd stand, a couple of steps on your stand strap and 4 beast sticks. I have tried everything, I’m done...... for now!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what about any accessories?...what is your total weight to carry miles in?...I am curious because I may hunt a state that doesnt allow spurs...for now all my hunts are climbed with aluminum spurs...would like to knock a couple more lbs off with a srt of kiwi carbons...but it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper if I drop 15 lbs myself...lol