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Food Plot Question

Torrent

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Dec 24, 2021
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We've got a small farm and we got hit by Blue Tongue back in 2017. We found 13 deer and I lost all my shooter bucks that year. They're starting to come back and I want to help and do my part.

What's the best mixture to use? Everybody says there's is the best. What do you guys use?

Is Red Clover good to use?
 
Before you go to all the effort were it me I’d hit up whitetail institute and grab a soil test kit. Then go from there. Clover is nice cuz it grows quick but imo you need something for the later months like radish or sugar beets. They’ll will steer you right
 
We've got a small farm and we got hit by Blue Tongue back in 2017. We found 13 deer and I lost all my shooter bucks that year. They're starting to come back and I want to help and do my part.

What's the best mixture to use? Everybody says there's is the best. What do you guys use?

Is Red Clover good to use?
Imo, clover is king. Not that there aren't lots of other good forages, but if you are going to have one perennial, nothing compares to clover.
Red clover is shorter-lived than white clover but red establishes a little faster. Red is usually a little less expensive than white.
I personally like white a little better than red but keep in mind that each come in several varieties.
Stay away from the courser versions of red because it has less palatibility per plant. The best time to plant clovers is in the fall...around Labor day for a lot of the country. Spring planted clover tends to develop more weed issues because clover, being a perennial, takes a little longer to establish than many weeds so it gets out-competed when spring planted.

You could spend the spring and summer prepping the plot and then do a rye/clover mix in the fall. Cereal rye, aka winter rye, aka grain rye is what you want...NOT RYE GRASS.

An easy planting method for a clover/rye mix is "throw and mow". Develop (grow) some thatch...spray with Roundup, broadcast seed, and mow the dead thatch. Cultipack if possible or even just drive over it with atv, or other vehicle in order to press seed to soil.

The object is to minimize tillage which will reduce activating weed seed in the seed bank of the soil. You'll also preserve soil moisture with less tillage.

There's a lot of good varieties of brassica if you want to do an annual.
Most brassica should be planted around July-ish.

An excellent source for seed and plot-planning is Green Cover Seed. Check out their Smart Mix calculator. Its very useful and almost addictive to play with different varieties.

Saddlehunter is a great forum, but it's not really the best source for habitat info. Try Habitat Talk if you want a ton of solid info on plotting and habitat improvement.

My number 1 bit of advice...Learn weed identification! Not all weeds are bad and some are actually highly desirable. Ragweed for example is highly preferred by my deer. You don't need to have a magazine-cover plot. You are just supplimenting the natural foods.
But you absolutely need to know how to identify the "bad" weeds and keep them under control.
Understand what you are getting yourself into. The wrong weeds can turn into a frustrating battle if they get established.

And as mentioned above...Get a soil test FOR SURE.

And thanks to Brandon, fertilizer prices and herbicide prices are thru the roof right now.
Probably the cheapest and easiest plot would be to frost seed clover and keep the competition mowed to about 6" or so until the clover gets well established.

Oh yeah, one more point...Where are you located? You need to taylor your planting to your zone. A plot in Florida is a completely different animal than one in Minnesota. Plan and plant according to your zone.
 
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I agree with getting a soil test done asap. Where I will differ is I would encourage sending it to Waters Labs. I am also a fan of Green Cover Seed. Before I touch on plot planting, imo, the first question to ask is what does your native habitat look like? Most folks would be better putting more resources towards improving native habitat before going all in on plots. Keep in mind, whether you are talking about native habitat or plots, everything starts with the soil. Improving your soil and /or soil function will yield more benefit that the type of seed you plant. I am talking about things like TSI cuts to open the timber canopy to get sunlight to the ground and will aid in mast production, using prescribed burns to clear built up leaf litter which will release new growth and improve water function and nutrient uptake in your timber. If you are blessed with horrible soil like we are, maybe spend some time looking at what Grant Woods has done at his place with their plotting program. It is a deer version of what Gabe Brown has been and is doing on his farm up in the Dakotas. Spend some time reading up or watching stuff by Craig Harper for native habitat improvement.
 
Depends on what your deer have access to in the vicinity. If your property is 10 acres surrounded by thousands of acres of corn or soybeans, you should plant something that is nutritionally very different from corn or soybeans because deer need variety in their diet to get the proper amounts of nutrients. However, planting soybeans could be ideal for your area if there's nothing nutritionally similar there. I also recommend a soil test, as others have.
Also consider the value of controlled burns, as micro-burn areas have been shown to offer tremendous nutritional value to deer.
 
I’ve planted food plots for years. Love em. But I would agree with others and highly recommend some TSI or controlled burning. It will give you better longterm food and cover, it will benefit more than just the deer, and you can use it to dictate more predictable movement. At the end of the day, it will cost mostly sweat equity and pay out more than a food plot blend.

With that said, focus on building your soil with a rotation like the Buffalo system Grant Woods proposes.
 
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