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foot ascender, spikes, Foot locking!!!

R

rnomad

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
71
Heres a link I found for a foot ascender. I saw a few guys talking about pre setting a cheap line to leave and carrying in a climbing line to pull up and threw the tree. Then someone was suggesting $300 worth of rid for going up a tree you could just use this and a separate rope tied to your saddle with a blakes hitch or a 2 under and two over knot.

http://shop.opticsplanet.com/cmi-foot-a ... oCd33w_wcB

heres a link to a video of how its used

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAE4ghiPubc

Im thinking about cutting down and old pair of spikes and making some of these sport climbers. Just to see if I like the stubby ones cause of the weight and easy to store and carry. Plus I wont be out $100 if I dont like them. I'm not really worried about the support of my boots because all of my boots even my rubber muck boots have steel shanks instead of plastic.

heres a link for them

https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... =0CJsBELok

Theres also another technique we use called foot locking its easy to do once you learn how( LOTS OR PRACTICE ) heres a link for that. I'm just trying to brainstorm a few easier ways to get up the tree with the least effort and SWEAT. That one stick method look good, but seams like it takes a while for him to get up there and uses a lot of effort. I could use spikes and be up there in like 10 seconds flat with a safety belt on, and a few limbs in the way with way less sweat. them my other dilemma is do I want to just use the spikes for a platform of have a alum. one with a pull strap fab'ed up.


Let me know what you guys think!!!!
 
I considered this. This is/is similar to what tree climbers call doubled rope technique?

The problems I see:

1. You must isolate a limb (SRT with rads gives you the option of a basal anchor)
2. Seems like more exertion... RADS just looks smooth, and you can slowly work yourself up, take a break etc.
3. Saves some money on the gear, but then you need to use a rope instead of a mechanical descender. Seems less reliable to me. Upgrade to mechanical descender/rope grab or whatever and it's $$.
4. You need to use a cambium saver to avoid damaging the bark, adding money and complexity. Not sure how big of an issue this is.

This is purely an armchair opinion as I have never used any of the gear in question... Maybe you or others can point out where I am wrong?

Foot locking looks to require a lot of practice and conditioning! I'll let others comment on sours because they're not legal for public land here.
 
boone0 said:
I considered this. This is/is similar to what tree climbers call doubled rope technique?

The problems I see:

1. You must isolate a limb (SRT with rads gives you the option of a basal anchor)
2. Seems like more exertion... RADS just looks smooth, and you can slowly work yourself up, take a break etc.
3. Saves some money on the gear, but then you need to use a rope instead of a mechanical descender. Seems less reliable to me. Upgrade to mechanical descender/rope grab or whatever and it's $$.
4. You need to use a cambium saver to avoid damaging the bark, adding money and complexity. Not sure how big of an issue this is.

This is purely an armchair opinion as I have never used any of the gear in question... Maybe you or others can point out where I am wrong?

Foot locking looks to require a lot of practice and conditioning! I'll let others comment on sours because they're not legal for public land here.
Click to expand...

You can stop or go when ever you want your taunt line hitch or blakes hitch would be in place. I don't trust mechanical descenders or ascenders that replace a blakes hitch or taunt line hitch. They BREAK!!!! I've seen it first hand. Your not gona damage the bark to the extent its gonna even be noticeable or hurt the tree. When I cut them down for people up and down all day it barely makes the bark slick.
 
When I was at New Tribe, I got to climb a tree with ascenders on a single rope, let me tell you that is not an easy task. Watched the foot locking technique and there is no way in heck I could do that in hunting gear. I will stick with climbing sticks.

Thanks,
Boswell
 
Boudreaux said:
When I was at New Tribe, I got to climb a tree with ascenders on a single rope, let me tell you that is not an easy task. Watched the foot locking technique and there is no way in heck I could do that in hunting gear. I will stick with climbing sticks.

Thanks,
Boswell
Click to expand...

I guess i've just been climbing trees to long think im just gonna try the spikes
 
Boudreaux said:
When I was at New Tribe, I got to climb a tree with ascenders on a single rope, let me tell you that is not an easy task. Watched the foot locking technique and there is no way in heck I could do that in hunting gear. I will stick with climbing sticks.

Thanks,
Boswell
Click to expand...

On a similar note, I've been fooling around with my SRT system. It is pretty awesome and really fun. I can go out in the backyard and be up in a tree in minutes when I'm not wearing anything but jeans and a sweatshirt. So far on all my attempts in the woods I have been layered up on cold days with bulky boots and it has been much harder for me to get up the tree. It may be I just need more practice (and upper body strength lol). As of right now I would say that system is great for the early season though.
 
For you guys p-laying around with SRT check out two devices that work in conjunction with a hitch- one is the Rope Wrench and the other is the Hitch Hiker. They go up the rope(need a means of tending them up) and then you descend on your hitch. Treestuff carries both and has links for their use I believe.
 
Has there ever been a product like a climber that's foot sized? I wonder if that could work. Stagger step up the tree..maybe move around at height. The attachment point would have to be angled differently to allow equal foot height without the cables crossing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
you can simply tie knots that do all the same thing you guys are spending money on that do the same thing and it costs ZERO $$$$

heres the foot loop Ill have to make a video next time I have some one to film for you guys on the taunt line or blakes hitch they are both self advancing and cost nothing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbEVCfajM-8

plust from my point of view you dont have to worry about medal on medal contact and theres no worry of anything breaking I've seen all of this stuff you guys are buying break and guys getting hutr bad a few have died i dont know bout you but I'd like to live so I can hunt tomm.
 
Using double rope you can use just a hitch but a hitch on a single line will grab so tight that descending is not a reality without something added to cause additional friction(Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker)
 
So your leaving your $100-$140 rope in the tree? So your saying if i climb a tree and tie my climbing rope off around the trunk or a lead, that i cant take my split tail and tie in and descend the tree with out any problems. I'm running my rope threw a crotch with a pc of throw line i left in the tree trying in like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my9vel7jx5A

then using this below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbEVCfajM-8

so all i have to do is stand up sit down And slide my foot loop Repeat till you reach your desired height. Descend as normal foot loop still attached. Then removing my rope and leaving the throw line to avoid squirrels chewing it and people stealing it.




I'm confused.
 
I don't think anyone is leaving climbing rope in the tree. Whispers Death explained how he leaves paracord in the tree, uses it to haul up throw line, then uses the throw line to haul climbing line. I think its somewhere in the other rope climbing thread you posted in..
 
That's what I was getting at. So how is he not having to stand at the ground and clang his hey I'm over here !! Asenders descenders and micro pullys together?
 
rnomad said:
That's what I was getting at. So how is he not having to stand at the ground and clang his hey I'm over here !! Asenders descenders and micro pullys together?
Click to expand...

It is really not loud to set up. You are just careful as you do it so you don't clank anything together. I have some parts covered with camo cloth to prevent accidental noises but you can do it without clanging easily.
 
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