• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Friction hitch vs. Ropeman 1 OFFICIAL (red neck) TEST

Friction hitch forever over a Ropeman for me 100% of the time.

I was explaining the dangers of a Ropeman to a buddy of mine and he wasn’t buying it. 2 minutes later and he on a platform 2’ off the ground perpendicular To the force of gravity and trying to figure out WTH just happened. He’s 100% anti-Ropeman now.
 
Last edited:
That was a Knut.
It tightened up pretty tight but in no way whatsoever damaged the mainline.

I'm done with yard work for the day so more extreme testing will have to wait...



Besides, I'm working on a new site tape for my heavy weight arrows.
 
Last edited:
dalton916 said:
Friction hitch forever over a Ropeman for me 100% of the time.
Click to expand...


No doubt!

dalton916 said:
I was explaining the dangers of a Ropeman to a buddy of mine and he was buying it. 2 minutes later and he on a platform 2’ off the ground perpendicular To the force of gravity and trying to figure out WTH just happened.
Click to expand...

I took a ride all the way to my stopper knot with a CT Roll-n-Lock last summer... o_O
 
I guess I'm on the other side of this issue. :) I've attempted to get away from my Ropeman 1 and use a hitch, but I've had more than one of those hitches either slip or bite the rope so hard it was difficult to break them lose. :rolleyes:
Hitches that I've tried: JRB Ascender, Blakes, Distel with and without a micro pulley, VT hitch and Asymmetrical Prusik. These hitches would either bite the rope so hard that it was difficult to brake them lose or they wouldn't hold in place consistently.

I've had the least amount of issues with the standard Prusik, when tied with a double eye prusik cord vs. a continuous loop cord. When rappelling, I used a Figure 8 backed up with a standard Prusik, using a double eye cord, above the Figure 8.
Here's a photo of it in the background of my climbing stick.
Muddy Pro 2.jpg
 
BowhunterXC said:
I guess I'm on the other side of this issue. :) I've attempted to get away from my Ropeman 1 and use a hitch, but I've had more than one of those hitches either slip or bite the rope so hard it was difficult to break them lose. :rolleyes:
Hitches that I've tried: JRB Ascender, Blakes, Distel with and without a micro pulley, VT hitch and Asymmetrical Prusik. These hitches would either bite the rope so hard that it was difficult to brake them lose or they wouldn't hold in place consistently.

I've had the least amount of issues with the standard Prusik, when tied with a double eye prusik cord vs. a continuous loop cord. When rappelling, I used a Figure 8 backed up with a standard Prusik, using a double eye cord, above the Figure 8.
Here's a photo of it in the background of my climbing stick.
View attachment 71007
Click to expand...

I started this thread just to have a little fun really. Not too serious.
I should mic the mainline to show how much the Ropeman squished it though...

I like your setup ^^^.
It kinda looks like you've got 8mm hitch cord on 8mm Oplux???
That might have sumthin' to do with why a standard Prusik grabs for you?
 
phatkaw said:
I started this thread just to have a little fun really. Not too serious.
I should mic the mainline to show how much the Ropeman squished it though...

I like your setup ^^^.
It kinda looks like you've got 8mm hitch cord on 8mm Oplux???
That might have sumthin' to do with why a standard Prusik grabs for you?
Click to expand...
Yep, 8mm hitch cord, but with 9mm Oplux.
I use my rappel rope to climb with the "one stick" method, but use a Ropeman1 and a carabiner, as I ascend. Once I'm done hunting, I attach the Figure 8, the Prusik and another carabiner to my bridge, BEFORE removing the Ropeman1 and its' carabiner. I like always being attached and it's safer that way too. :cool:
 
I suppose an argument could be made against it as a tether, but as a lineman's belt it's the best there is period. I've never had as issue nor have ever known anyone else have an issue. Its perfect
 
BowhunterXC said:
I guess I'm on the other side of this issue. :) I've attempted to get away from my Ropeman 1 and use a hitch, but I've had more than one of those hitches either slip or bite the rope so hard it was difficult to break them lose. :rolleyes:
Hitches that I've tried: JRB Ascender, Blakes, Distel with and without a micro pulley, VT hitch and Asymmetrical Prusik. These hitches would either bite the rope so hard that it was difficult to brake them lose or they wouldn't hold in place consistently.

I've had the least amount of issues with the standard Prusik, when tied with a double eye prusik cord vs. a continuous loop cord. When rappelling, I used a Figure 8 backed up with a standard Prusik, using a double eye cord, above the Figure 8.
Here's a photo of it in the background of my climbing stick.
View attachment 71007
Click to expand...
Part of the equation is the type of rope you utilize and also the diameter ratio of cord to the main rope. I’ve never had issues with schwabisch (asymmetrical prusik) or distel. I prefer them around 70 to 80% for ease of breaking them loose. If they aren’t as consistent as you like, simply add one extra wrap on top.
 
bigmike23 said:
I suppose an argument could be made against it as a tether, but as a lineman's belt it's the best there is period. I've never had as issue nor have ever known anyone else have an issue. Its perfect
Click to expand...
Big Mike, I gotta disagree. I’d rather use a mechanical on my tether where I know it’s consistently tensioned and I can limit my fall distance to mere inches. On a positioning lanyard (ie: lineman’s rope) your potential fall distance is typically farther and less controlled. For this reason I feel the mechanical is the worst option. Since your lineman’s rope is rarely ever fully weighted, I’ve found friction hitches with tenders move easier on a lineman’s rope than they do on a bridge or tether.
 
Tether use is on a fixed/stationary rope, your full weight is on the hitch. With LB it is in a basket configuration, half the weight on the hitch, which should be easier to break.
 
BowhunterXC said:
I guess I'm on the other side of this issue. :) I've attempted to get away from my Ropeman 1 and use a hitch, but I've had more than one of those hitches either slip or bite the rope so hard it was difficult to break them lose. :rolleyes:
Hitches that I've tried: JRB Ascender, Blakes, Distel with and without a micro pulley, VT hitch and Asymmetrical Prusik. These hitches would either bite the rope so hard that it was difficult to brake them lose or they wouldn't hold in place consistently.

I've had the least amount of issues with the standard Prusik, when tied with a double eye prusik cord vs. a continuous loop cord. When rappelling, I used a Figure 8 backed up with a standard Prusik, using a double eye cord, above the Figure 8.
Here's a photo of it in the background of my climbing stick.
Click to expand...
I know this is a little off topic but do you just tend / squeeze the prussic and the rope advances decent through the 8 on rappel? I’m currently running a michoacan (my tether hitch when set up) as a backup, but below the 8…
 
neonomad said:
I know this is a little off topic but do you just tend / squeeze the prussic and the rope advances decent through the 8 on rappel? I’m currently running a michoacan (my tether hitch when set up) as a backup, but below the 8…
Click to expand...
I only use a prusik, when I'm rappelling and I use it with a Figure 8. I like this setup, because I need to stop rappelling long enough to remove my platform and climbing stick. I can use a hard block feature on the Figure 8, to sit/stop in one place without concern for slippage. :)

I used a JRB Ascender Hitch, while climbing, this morning and had no issues with tending it or breaking it to rappel. :cool:
After I rappelled down, I noticed the hitch stretched out a bit, so I shortened the 2 loops at the bottom and dressed up the rest of the hitch. Everything seems to be working great. :cool:
JRB Ascender Hitch.jpg
 
neonomad said:
I know this is a little off topic but do you just tend / squeeze the prussic and the rope advances decent through the 8 on rappel? I’m currently running a michoacan (my tether hitch when set up) as a backup, but below the 8…
Click to expand...
Yes, hold tight on the rope below the fig 8 with your brake hand and push down on the hitch with the other. The hitch will release easier if the 8 is weighted first.
 
Man, I was just outside trying that ^^^ and it SUCKS with a normal Prusik.
I tried it with a Klemheist and that wasn't much better...
 
phatkaw said:
Man, I was just outside trying that ^^^ and it SUCKS with a normal Prusik.
I tried it with a Klemheist and that wasn't much better...
Click to expand...
That’s why I asked, because the hitch won’t bind as tight when it’s below the figure 8, I was curious about this because it does look more convenient… but if the hitch bites then you’re just hanging unless you have a stick to stand on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top