• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Friction Hitches

I started experimenting with an ATC to replace my 8 for descending and it tends the Prusik pretty well on the way up too.
But this combination of hitches would work really well with an 8 too, for spreading out the friction/adding redundancy. Schwabisch up top and an autoblock on linesman loop. Let go of either one and you stop. In pic is 100% not my original idea, but I like it so far. Privileged Bowhunter, somebody else posted his video recently, I can find it if interested, but more for an idea of both A and B from above with your 8. I’m also considering a secondary bridge below instead of linesman but it works fine as long as the autoblock isn’t holding all the weight. If it ends up that way you just dress your Prusik and release some from the autoblock.
If you don't like the secondary bridge for whatever reason, you could put the descender on a short tether to extend it. I climb in an RCH+Drey and have a couple of tethers girth-hitched to my belay loop; I put my friction hitch on my belay loop and my figure-8 on a (more or less) 18" tether. Prevents metal-on-metal noise, prevents 'carabiner confusion' provides enough standoff between autoblock and descender, and everything is on my centerline, accessible to either hand. With a compact enough autoblock you could get by with like a 6" tether on a friction ring.

I mean, probably. I'm not a safety expert or anything like that. If I'm suggesting something unsafe I trust somebody will correct me.
 
Mainly avoiding biner confusion and keeping it off to the side helps with that. Saddle also has a webbing loop on each linesman loop that keeps the biner from flopping around and potentially making noise.
 
gcr0003 when using the 8 above and hitch below I am having a hard time figuring out how to tend both....
Is this just a one hand deal. I am right handed so I figure I would have to rappel by placing the meat of right hand on Top of the hitch in Figure A. this breaks the hitch and allows for a continuous flow of rope through the 8???? If my hand slips then the hitch catches?? How do I stop the rappel to retrieve my platform, is that a two-handed move?
 
I have used both a hitch above and below my fig 8. I prefer above. I always run my fig 8 in canyon mode: Take a bight through the large hole in the fig. 8, give the bight one twist, place the twisted bight over the small end of the bight. To rappel, pull down on the small end like a lever. If you let go the fig 8 will stop the rappel. You can then use two hands to remove any platforms or sticks. My friction hitch can even be really loose, but I still have to use one hand to keep the friction hitch from catching.
 
I have used both a hitch above and below my fig 8. I prefer above. I always run my fig 8 in canyon mode: Take a bight through the large hole in the fig. 8, give the bight one twist, place the twisted bight over the small end of the bight. To rappel, pull down on the small end like a lever. If you let go the fig 8 will stop the rappel. You can then use two hands to remove any platforms or sticks. My friction hitch can even be really loose, but I still have to use one hand to keep the friction hitch from catching.
i usually do the fig 8 in standard mode with a second loop. Increases friction a bit but I'm on 8mm oplux and weigh in about 220 lb all suited up. I have a mich hitch above but sometimes (rarely) i have a little difficulty breaking it after retrieving platform. Then away I go down.
 
i usually do the fig 8 in standard mode with a second loop. Increases friction a bit but I'm on 8mm oplux and weigh in about 220 lb all suited up. I have a mich hitch above but sometimes (rarely) i have a little difficulty breaking it after retrieving platform. Then away I go down.
Look up @phatkaw rappelling video on YT. He uses a single bight through the 8 but does a single/double cinch that is really nifty. CragHunter’s channel has some great figure 8 rappel videos as well including the same techno as Phat.
 
i usually do the fig 8 in standard mode with a second loop. Increases friction a bit but I'm on 8mm oplux and weigh in about 220 lb all suited up. I have a mich hitch above but sometimes (rarely) i have a little difficulty breaking it after retrieving platform. Then away I go down.
Look up @phatkaw rappelling video on YT. He uses a single bight through the 8 but does a single/double cinch that is really nifty. CragHunter’s channel has some great figure 8 rappel videos as well including the same techno as Phat.

https://youtube.com/@Craghunter01?feature=shared
 
gcr0003 when using the 8 above and hitch below I am having a hard time figuring out how to tend both....
Is this just a one hand deal. I am right handed so I figure I would have to rappel by placing the meat of right hand on Top of the hitch in Figure A. this breaks the hitch and allows for a continuous flow of rope through the 8???? If my hand slips then the hitch catches?? How do I stop the rappel to retrieve my platform, is that a two-handed move?
Rappelling is always a two hand operation. One hand manages tag line other manages hitch. When you stop and let the hitch hold you then you can go hands free.
 
Another option for hitch and fig 8, only need to open the carabiner to add friction, add one more bight on the carabiner to get two finger holding.
View attachment 93140
A bound up hitch can be freed by using a foot lock on the rope and standing up on it.
Just realized that this is your original hitch. Holy crap that’s cool. I’m learning it with a ring but I prefer the rope-only versions of anything in hunting scenario. I’m trying to dissect how you did this version. I see that the rope makes the shape of the rappel ring but I can’t quite trace it.
 
The Soft Sticht isn’t too much more, just form the ring with the bottom wrap, put the top wrap through the ring, take both ends behind to form the twist loosely and put them through the ring to the front again. Wrap down around a carabiner and take the ends, one on each side, up between the twist and the rope, and tie a secure stopper.
A non metallic ring is anothter option.
IMG_6471.jpeg
 
The Soft Sticht isn’t too much more, just form the ring with the bottom wrap, put the top wrap through the ring, take both ends behind to form the twist loosely and put them through the ring to the front again. Wrap down around a carabiner and take the ends, one on each side, up between the twist and the rope, and tie a secure stopper.
A non metallic ring is anothter option.
View attachment 93285
This is my homework today while I sit over the BBQ. Thank you!!
 
Back
Top