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GEN 2 STRAP MOD (NO BUCKLE)!!!

ckossuth

Well-Known Member
Vendor Rep
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
780
Location
Rolla, Missouri
So the daisy chain is nothing new but I made one up for my G2 Predator to give it a go. I did some quick testing in the back woods (at night of course). I put it on 6”, 12”, and 20” trees. It worked well on all. I hunted with it all weekend. It works flawlessly! I love it! The bungee cord on the end keeps it nice and tidy and super easy to deploy.

I used 3/4” tubular webbing (#2300 breaking strength). Sewn with V92 Tex 90 thread on my Juki walking foot. Thought I would share. Enjoy!

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Real nice. Thoughts on the commercially available woven daisy chain webbing being viable here? (taking safety angle out of the conversation, strictly looking at function)...
 
Real nice. Thoughts on the commercially available woven daisy chain webbing being viable here? (taking safety angle out of the conversation, strictly looking at function)...

To properly function, the "loops" need to be sewn to a specific size. Basically as small as they can be and still slip over the post button. If the loops are too big you would not be able to get as much slack out of the strap as possible. This would result in a severe strap angle when you push the post down to cam over the platform. This could lead to the top of the platform wanting to pull away from the tree with a lot of weight on the edge. Just like with the original strap, the straighter you can keep it as it goes around the tree before you push the post down, the better.
 
Several of us looked at daisy chains last year to replace our tethers. The climbing guys really frowned upon it. I guess since your not using it as a lifeline(tether) its probably fine.
 
Several of us looked at daisy chains last year to replace our tethers. The climbing guys really frowned upon it. I guess since your not using it as a lifeline(tether) its probably fine.

Yeah I wouldn't use stitched daisy chain webbing for a tether either.
 
what spacing did you use for your stitching pattern, aka optimal loop length aka distance between each stich line
how many loops did you make and total length of strap
I gotta make one of these...genius idea man
 
Did you weigh that strap in comparison to the stock strap and buckle? I keep finding myself in very large diameter trees down here in Alabama to avoid the loud, annoying, anti WE stepp pines down here. So thinking that would take an significant amount of extra webbing. Really like the bungee idea! Thanks for sharing.
 
Did you weigh that strap in comparison to the stock strap and buckle? I keep finding myself in very large diameter trees down here in Alabama to avoid the loud, annoying, anti WE stepp pines down here. So thinking that would take an significant amount of extra webbing. Really like the bungee idea! Thanks for sharing.

I'll get a weight difference for you in a little bit.
 
That’s awesome . I’m gonna have to check that out.


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Nice job I’ve also been looking to get away from the buckle. I’m going to try @Allegheny Tom Whoopi’s sling method first. If that seem to be a pain, I’m going to sew up some daisy chain. So you just sewn the gaps so there the same diameter as the versa button?


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Nice job I’ve also been looking to get away from the buckle. I’m going to try @Allegheny Tom Whoopi’s sling method first. If that seem to be a pain, I’m going to sew up some daisy chain. So you just sewn the gaps so there the same diameter as the versa button?


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I tried a whoopie sling on my Predator. I really didn't like it. It seems like the Pred really needs to have the strap (or rope) in a horizontal attitude in order to keep the stand really stable during side torque. The whoopie needs to have that slack so you can remove it easier. I could be wrong about my analysis, though. Try it for yourself and report back to us. It would be nice to lose the buckle.
 
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I tried a whoopie sling on my Predator. I really didn't like it. It seems like the Pred really needs to have to strap (or rope) in a horizontal attitude in order to keep the stand really stable during side torque. The whoopie needs to have that slack so you can remove it easier. I could be wrong about my analysis, though. Try it for yourself and report back to us. It would be nice to lose the buckle.

I’m going to give it a shot since I have some left over amsteel. I’m wondering if you pull the tag end toward you and pull the male side to loosen if that will take pressure off the constrictor part and make it easier. This of course makes it a two handed operation but only for removal . Daisy chain would still probably be easier/ safer since you can have one hand on predator to remove, time will tell.


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Hammock straps work as well. But I keep going back to the cam strap
 
I’m going to give it a shot since I have some left over amsteel. I’m wondering if you pull the tag end toward you and pull the male side to loosen if that will take pressure off the constrictor part and make it easier. This of course makes it a two handed operation but only for removal . Daisy chain would still probably be easier/ safer since you can have one hand on predator to remove, time will tell.


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Maybe I should mess around with it again. You could be on to a couple techniques that I didn't think of.

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Maybe another approach would be using slotted nylon webbing. Here's an example:
This was a door prize at a traditional shoot years ago. I never used it for anything. It's 1 inch wide. The slots are woven in but would be a little small for the current Predator versa button.

https://photos.google.com/archive/photo/AF1QipPneM9SleOD3ugFAM3upApiCzC6iCX6C7U72U1s
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While I was searching for this webbing I ran upon this video and instantly thought about all the possibilities it might hold for us DIYers.

 
I’m thinking a spliced/sewn eye on some 7mm rope with a prusik knot for adjustability on the other side for an attachment. Possibly a ropeman but that doesn’t save any weight or reduce metal noise.

One draw back would not being able to use a side step as the rope wouldn’t fit in the slot.
 
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