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HELP - Single Bevel KME sharpening

hokiehunter373

hokiehunter373

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Messages
1,570
Location
Maryland
Here’s what I’ve got:

KME kit
3 stones
Strop
Cutthroats

What am I doing wrong? I can’t seem to get a burr. Do you all use forward or back strokes? Both? Obviously start course and work to fine then strop. How many passes do you find is usually enough? Please give me your tips and tricks. Thanks
8e48e91e9b2cda1c12f8f080688a721c.jpg



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I have the cutthroats too. I used the fine stone then ceramic on my work sharp guide sharpener. I go from outside towards ferrule for these two steps. You can take a sharpie and blacken the edges that way you will see when you have hit the entire blade surface for the stone then use ceramic, usually 20-30 passes (no set number). Then I strop roughly the same, 20-30 passes and go from ferrule out pulling the edge away from cut. After that I check on paper or arm to make sure it’s shave sharp. If it’s not to my liking I go back to ceramic unless I see any visible burrs on the edge and 20-30 ceramic passes and strop again. I usually don’t worry about a burr when I start I just go through the process and repeat but it works for me.

I’m also going to follow this to get some better ideas/methods.

I will say I’ve got them very sharp this way though.


Sent from parts unknown
 
Following. I’m having the same issues getting the Cutthroats back to razor sharp. I tried stones with the StaySharp system, finally called them and they recommended using a diamond sharpening stone. I ordered one will report back.
Cutthroats are HRC 55 which I believe is fairly high on the hardness scale for a broadhead. I know the Tuffheads are 52.
 
The SS on the Masai is 54 hardness. I didn't get a burr on the Masai the first time I took a stone to it. It didn't stop me from getting them shaving sharp. I kept wanting to get a burr, but I made several passes with my coarsest diamond stone and couldn't get a burr, so I went through the stones and to the strop, and when I was done it could cut thin curls of fine paper and take the hair off your arm. We may be dealing with a different animal than the old zwickey heads. Which could be softer steel and easier to get a burr. I know I won't have a problem using them. The marker on the edge is the key so we know we're getting to the edge regardless of whether we get a burr or not. Still following.
 
Diamond stones are better suited for the hardened material....like everybody mentioned .....run a marker on the shiny cutting surface and then make some passed and see if your sharpener is on the same angle as the broadhead. My sharpener has option for either a 20 or 25 degrees bevel. 20 is a finer edge that will be very sharp. I sharpen on 25 degree to give me a little more durable edge.....with the broadheads I currently playing with (grizzly200 and steel force145) I had to change the factory edge profile. The marker on the blade will tell you how much or little you'll need to remove.

 
Weldabeast said:
Diamond stones are better suited for the hardened material....like everybody mentioned .....run a marker on the shiny cutting surface and then make some passed and see if your sharpener is on the same angle as the broadhead. My sharpener has option for either a 20 or 25 degrees bevel. 20 is a finer edge that will be very sharp. I sharpen on 25 degree to give me a little more durable edge.....with the broadheads I currently playing with (grizzly200 and steel force145) I had to change the factory edge profile. The marker on the blade will tell you how much or little you'll need to remove.

Click to expand...
Great video, shows great technique. Now bring that edge to the strop and your done.
 
Also, you can get in touch with Ron from KME and he would be glad to talk you through the process. He has helped alot of guys over the years figure it out.
 
I’m experimenting with heavy arrows as well (Ranch Fairy, Ethics Archery, Cutthroat/Tuffhead broadheads).
As a novice to sharpening, I’m researching pulling the trigger on either a KME or Tormek T4 bushcraft. Pros/cons on both (mostly price). Opinions vary and tons of video out there. I definitely want a guided sharpener (vice just files or sand paper).
Lotta art and $ in our bow hunting passion!
 
I've had this smiths set for over 10 years. It works great for broadheads and smaller blade knives. The stones are about wore out. I added the leather for strop and cone shaped stone for the gut hook to the kit. The little pouch is perfect....it stays in my truck under the seat most of the year....touching up broadheads in the fall and filet knives in the spring

Screenshot_20200405-115154_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20200405-115158_Gallery.jpg
 
Nomad Hunter said:
I’m experimenting with heavy arrows as well (Ranch Fairy, Ethics Archery, Cutthroat/Tuffhead broadheads).
As a novice to sharpening, I’m researching pulling the trigger on either a KME or Tormek T4 bushcraft. Pros/cons on both (mostly price). Opinions vary and tons of video out there. I definitely want a guided sharpener (vice just files or sand paper).
Lotta art and $ in our bow hunting passion!
Click to expand...

www.worksharptools.com

Guided Field Sharpener

The Guided Field Sharpener is a complete sharpening solution for field, home or shop use. It is the first angle guided, 5 stage sharpening solution designed for sportsmen who need a complete, robust and compact field sharpening solution.
www.worksharptools.com www.worksharptools.com

I got this little sharpener and love it, works great for broadheads and knives, got my cutthroats shaving sharp with it. They make good stuff and have a good variety of sharpeners besides this one. I just like it bc it fits in a pack and takes up no room really.


Sent from parts unknown
 
Are you sure that you are REALLY matching the factory angle of the broadhead?
Don't assume that the given angle that the KME is exactly the same as the factory angle on the broadhead.
Not every broadhead and sharpening jig match on a stated angle.
That is the value of putting a sharpie to the edge before you start sharpening. It allows you to see exactly where the stone is contacting your bevel angle.

I suspect your broadhead edge is not making contact with the stone.
 
A 10x Triplet magnifier is a great aid when used in conjunction with the sharpie. It will let you see if you are cutting steel all the way to the edge, and when the entire length of the edge is sharp. It also lets you see when finer stones in a progression have removed all the scratch marks fron previous, courser stones. $30-$40 well spent.
 
Another way to test for an initial edge with your most course stone is to wet your thumbnail and LIGHTLY drag the edge across it. If you don't feel the edge drag hard on your nail, you don't have a good edge. If only part of your edge drags, you don't have a good edge for the full length of the blade. Until you establish this initial edge you will never get a broadhead sharp--time spent on your initial stone is the most important, finer stones can only refine that existing edge.

The biggest mistake you can make is to get frustrated and not complete your work with the initial stone, thinking "I'll catch it up with the next stone"".
 
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