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help with heavy arrow shorter draw

kongzilla

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
95
looking to go heavy or adult arrows. I am a 26.5 draw length and pull around 60+ lbs. Can I get recommendations on this topic for my draw length. info on what I should be shooting as well as insert and broadheads to get over 500. A lot of talk about guys with longer draws, just want more info on guys with shorter draw lengths but are pulling more poundage.
 
looking to go heavy or adult arrows. I am a 26.5 draw length and pull around 60+ lbs. Can I get recommendations on this topic for my draw length. info on what I should be shooting as well as insert and broadheads to get over 500. A lot of talk about guys with longer draws, just want more info on guys with shorter draw lengths but are pulling more poundage.

My arrows are 26.5 carbon to carbon gold tip velocity from a Mathews vertix at 65# with 275gr up front and about 555 taw and they fly like darts. But honestly you’ll probably need to do your due diligence and see what flys right out of your bow. Something similar to my arrow set up may be a good starting point.


Sent from parts unknown
 
My arrows are 26.5 carbon to carbon gold tip velocity from a Mathews vertix at 65# with 275gr up front and about 555 taw and they fly like darts. But honestly you’ll probably need to do your due diligence and see what flys right out of your bow. Something similar to my arrow set up may be a good starting point.


Sent from parts unknown

Thanks man, I am shooting a Triax at around 60lbs. Ill have to give it a go.
 
If you go above 450-475 grains, your trajectory will suffer a good bit. You may bring your effective range in to about 20, maybe 25 yards. You’re basically in trad bow territory once you push above 500 grains.

get longer arms, get stronger to pull more weight, or settle for the limitations. If it were me I’d Shoot a single pin and do one of two things: shoot a 450gr arrow and limit myself to 30 yards(and don’t shoot at nervous or moving deer beyond 20) or shoot a 550gr arrow and limit myself to 25 yards.
 
Go heavy and embrace the 20yds and in strategy and let your woodsmanship bring the deer into shooting range. It's ok to let the deer win one once in a while. As you sharpen your set up strategies your kill rate will increase. That's the difference between becoming a better hunter as opposed to becoming a better shooter.
 
Go heavy and embrace the 20yds and in strategy and let your woodsmanship bring the deer into shooting range. It's ok to let the deer win one once in a while. As you sharpen your set up strategies your kill rate will increase. That's the difference between becoming a better hunter as opposed to becoming a better shooter.

Well said!!!
 
My arrows are 26.5 carbon to carbon gold tip velocity from a Mathews vertix at 65# with 275gr up front and about 555 taw and they fly like darts. But honestly you’ll probably need to do your due diligence and see what flys right out of your bow. Something similar to my arrow set up may be a good starting point.


Sent from parts unknown
What spine is your arrow? I shoot 400 spine Axis right now. But I bought some 100 grain brass inserts and my heads are 165 grain. I was going to go to a 300 spin Axis. I have a 26" draw length.
 
I shoot 400 spine Axis right now. But I bought some 100 grain brass inserts and my heads are 165 grain. I was going to go to a 300 spin Axis. I have a 26" draw length.

I thought that the higher the spine number on an arrow the stiffer the arrow is? Also since our arrows are going to be shorter wouldnt that just make it even stiffer. Since we have a shorter draw shouldnt we go with a lower spine?

I feel like im overthinking it
 
I thought that the higher the spine number on an arrow the stiffer the arrow is? Also since our arrows are going to be shorter wouldnt that just make it even stiffer. Since we have a shorter draw shouldnt we go with a lower spine?

I feel like im overthinking it
The lower the number the stiffer the spine
 
What spine is your arrow? I shoot 400 spine Axis right now. But I bought some 100 grain brass inserts and my heads are 165 grain. I was going to go to a 300 spin Axis. I have a 26" draw length.

300, my b forgot to add that


Sent from parts unknown
 
My arrows are 26.5 carbon to carbon gold tip velocity from a Mathews vertix at 65# with 275gr up front and about 555 taw and they fly like darts. But honestly you’ll probably need to do your due diligence and see what flys right out of your bow. Something similar to my arrow set up may be a good starting point.


Sent from parts unknown

28.5 DL
65# DW

Arrow-350 spine Day Six
Arrow Length-27” C2C
TAW-550 grains
100 grain stainless steel insert
125 grain point

seems to work well
 
I thought that the higher the spine number on an arrow the stiffer the arrow is? Also since our arrows are going to be shorter wouldnt that just make it even stiffer. Since we have a shorter draw shouldnt we go with a lower spine?

I feel like im overthinking it

300 would be stiffer. Shorter arrows would be stiffer but most people aren't loading up the front so heavy, which weakens the spine. From my understanding it's better to be overspined than underspined. I could probably be fine with 340 spine but 300 gives me some wiggle room.
 
My arrows are 26.5 carbon to carbon gold tip velocity from a Mathews vertix at 65# with 275gr up front and about 555 taw and they fly like darts. But honestly you’ll probably need to do your due diligence and see what flys right out of your bow. Something similar to my arrow set up may be a good starting point.


Sent from parts unknown
Any idea what your arrow speed is? I'm thinking of a similar setup and will probably need to get in a new ezv insert
 
right around 240fps if I remember right, not real concerned with speed this time around


Sent from parts unknown
 
Like the RF says, you gotta do the work. For me, a 340 spine shot better out of my bow than a 300 spine. A 300 or 250 spine might shoot better for the next guys setup. If you are shooting around 65# DW, get a 250 spine and 300 spine and a test pack of varying weight field tips and start shooting until you determine which combinations shoot best out of your rig. If you are shooting under 60#, start with a 300 and 340 spine
 
If you go above 450-475 grains, your trajectory will suffer a good bit. You may bring your effective range in to about 20, maybe 25 yards. You’re basically in trad bow territory once you push above 500 grains.

get longer arms, get stronger to pull more weight, or settle for the limitations. If it were me I’d Shoot a single pin and do one of two things: shoot a 450gr arrow and limit myself to 30 yards(and don’t shoot at nervous or moving deer beyond 20) or shoot a 550gr arrow and limit myself to 25 yards.

Wait where can I find those longer arms?

I have a 25.5" DL 65lb Bowtech Realm on the Comfort setting. Shooting 27" Easton Hexx 330, 75gr insert 150gr point. Comes to around 490gr, 18% FOC. Previous arrow was around 95gr less. Velocity went from 239 FPS to 229 FPS.

I figured nothing will ever get my bow fast, so I figured I'd go for more weight.
 
I have a 26" DL and I'm shooting 65 lbs with a Mathews VXR.

297 g - Day 6 300 @ 26.5" (11.2 gpi)
100 g - Day 6 concentric outset
125 g - broadhead (slick tricks and a few single bevel 2 blades - I'll figure out which one I like most)
20 g - Nocturnal Lighted nock
12 g - Zinger Fletchings
________
554 grains

That's the exact arrows I'm running. I max out with a 3 pin slider sight from Spott Hogg at around 75 yards. If you had a 5 pin slider, you could probably shoot to 100 yards. I'm very accurate with this bow/arrow.

Don't be afraid to go heavy. The real test will be in September when I whack a giant North Dakota Booner!
 
Do NOT

False. I've been bowhunting for nearly 30 years. Those light arrow broadhead combinations are only effective if things go right. We don't hunt in a perfect world with perfect hunting situations. I'm not saying go stupid high arrow weight. But it's like this. Have you ever went somewhere and decided not to carry something with ya, then once you get there you wish you had. This is the same thing. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

who Are you arguing with? I’m not sure I disagree with anything you’re saying. But as a fellow multi decade bowhunter, I’m not sure what it’s got to do with anything?
 
Am I the only on that pictured this when I read the title included help with shorter draw length? Maybe its just the pain meds...
bb2cd51b9bb896444574b30bdbae395b.jpg
 
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