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Help with lower poundage bows

HuumanCreed

HuumanCreed

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Aug 21, 2020
Messages
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Location
Westminster Maryland
Forcefully dragging my father-in-law(age74) back into traditional archery. Got him a used 35lber ASL with a mild reflex/deflect that I'm going to surprise him with for father's day. The previous owner gave me fiberglass arrows that he said came with the bow when he got it. They spin well on the arrow spinner but need to be re-fletch which is fine, problem is there is no spine marking and they are have glued on tip.

So now I'm looking for arrows and doing my research on what is the best fit. Probably going with small diameter carbon because I have no experience with wood or aluminum. The Goldtip site is saying 500 spine @28in would work if I go heavy upfront. BUT the internet has been telling me that I need to go at least 600 spine at full length, some are even saying 800 spine?????? I have tons of 500 spines that I was hoping to use instead of buying MORE arrows....

Is it me or do you need to be a lot more precise when its a lower poundage bow?

Anyone here setup lower poundage bow? Any suggestions? Honestly I don't think he would care if I just give him the fiberglass one, but I never used fiberglass before and would feel better being able to give him carbon arrows.
 
If you already have 500 spine arrows I would start there. Load up the front with about 200 grains up front and try that. The lowest poundage I have shot in an ASL is 56# so I am guessing here. I'm shooting 500's in my 56# with 400 grains up front, 650 TAW and they fly like darts.
 
Asl shelves are usually cut very shallow so you've got more handle to shoot around (more paradox). That means they are more spine specific than Rd bows or recurves as a whole.
Still start with 500 and adjust as needed. Spine can also be specific to the archer, and not just draw length but grip and release. These can't be accounted for on any spine chart.
 
Petrichor said:
For such I light bow I’d go with 600s with a moderate tip. I think with 500s with a heavy point could work but your arrow is really gonna be diving for the dirt.
Click to expand...

I'm actually leaning towards 700 and cutting it as I tune. I have the same worries that you mentioned. I understand speed in a recreational bow is not the main concern, but to arch so much really worries me.
 
Check out 3Rivers Archery web page. They have a spine calculator that should help you pick the right spine and point weight for the length of arrow you want.

With all my bows they are almost right on with what bareshaft tunes for them.

www.3riversarchery.com

3Rivers Archery Supply

Find the perfect arrow to maximize your shooting! Match the dynamic spine of both bow and arrow for optimal arrow performance.
www.3riversarchery.com www.3riversarchery.com
 
HuumanCreed said:
I'm actually leaning towards 700 and cutting it as I tune. I have the same worries that you mentioned. I understand speed in a recreational bow is not the main concern, but to arch so much really worries me.
Click to expand...


Leave a little of the "arch". The flight of the arrow is no doubt what this man is going to find most gratifying. It's going back to being a kid again.
 
There are a million variables but just to give you an example I shot a 33lb recurve cut to center, 28" draw, last deer season with full length (32") 600 spine and 275 grains up front. They were bare shafting a bit stiff. With a 35 lb ASL I would start with 600 spine. Of Course, draw length, insert length, fletching length, brace height, string silencer drag, shelf material and many other things effect dynamic spine so you will need to tweak. I just doubt a 500 spine will be weak enough for a 35lb ASL. JMO
 
Depending on his draw length and knowing he will be shooting a broom handle. I would dtart with a 700, but it 1.5"s longer than his draw and try point weight around 175 grains. If stiff which it may be than add another 25 to 50 grains of point weight. If he draws 28"s that should get him close. Shawn
 
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