Hot melt, cool melt or glue for single bevel heads

[ofor]

I am dabbling in the heavy arrow build craze and was considering trying single bevel broadheads. I have been using cool melt to install ethics 200 gn inserts. DIY Sportsman mentioned on a Bishop single bevel review video that he uses epoxy to install his inserts because the extra rotational forces that occur with single bevels can cause inserts to break free if epoxy is not used. I was looking at using 125 gn cutthroat single bevels.

Has anyone experienced inserts breaking loose with single bevels or am I good with continuing to use cool melt?

 

[Weldabeast]

I'm sure it can happen.....hasn't happened to me....I've accidentally hit 4x4 posts and the impact had enough to blow the nock out and send a crack halfway up the length of the arrow but the glue bond held. Blue low temp hotmelt

 

[Weldabeast]

The prep work to the arrow is important. Scuff up the carbon and I scratch the stainless insert with 36grit to give the glue something other than the groove cuts on the insert tipp grab

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Cool melt is okay for tuning, but once the arrow is dialed in, I'm switching to hot melt.
I don't like epoxy with carbons because it's too hard to undo if I want to change something.
I will say this about the Ethics inserts...At full length, they are so long and offer a lot of surface area for the glue. I think hot melt will be just fine.

 

[JAYBO]

Another vote for hot melt.

 

[woodsdog2]

I've used hot melt for years, the Bohning Ferr-L-Tite amber colored glue. If you're concerned about heat with carbon arrows, get an old long field tip and screw it into your insert you're installing and heat the field tip up, the insert will get hot enough to melt the Ferr-L-Tite and then evenly apply it on your steel insert(s), or aluminum (whatever you're using) and then push it into the carbon shaft and let it cool. What I really like about hot melt is that you can custom rotate your inserts, broadheads, etc. exactly how you want them by heating up the point NOT the carbon shaft. With aluminum shafts its even easier. I know aluminum is old school but you will not get a straighter tolerance shaft at a price point that's reasonable compared to carbon shafts. I believe Easton XX75's are like $6 per shaft and they are at .002" straightness and you do not have to nock tune or insert tune Aluminums either!!!! They are consistent all away along the shaft unlike carbon shafts. The only problem I'm finding is locating as many heavy insert options for the multiple diameter aluminums available.