Bear hug with left arm as I tried to take the card out of the home base cuddlelink cam. No linesmans...ugh i know. Quick card pull before work.
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I fell...well slid- Amsteel bury was not long enough.
- Thread starter sdonx
- Start date
Bear hug with left arm as I tried to take the card out of the home base cuddlelink cam. No linesmans...ugh i know. Quick card pull before work.
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How's about a whole 'nother section!!
ImThere
Well-Known Member
It will be ignored imho. Or it will need duplicated and store in a couple of locations.
Or a sticky in each section that links to the “near miss” in its original location
Not an easy answer if the intent is for people to read it. I also think there needs to be a key word type post so it will easily show up
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IkemanTX
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 3,501
A well titled sticky thread would work wonders. Maybe a good, non scary title, to get people’s attention and just the accounts from the user. No responses to clutter it up.
We could have a format for guys to provide enough info so that it stays relevant.
Climbing method, personal mistake, equipment failure, how the equipment reacted, injuries, modifications to climbing method/gear to avoid it in the future... it could be really useful with all the new guys showing up.
................................................................................All climbing methods, platforms, saddle designs, and/or use of materials possibly mentioned in the post above are not peer reviewed for safety, and should only be used as an example of my own method. Do your own research and testing before becoming confident in any DIY solution to support your life.
-IkemanTx
Good idea.
IkemanTX
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 3,501
How about something like this from one of my fall/slidings
Location of incident:
Climbing
Saddle type:
Diy modifies Sit & Drag with spliced Amsteel bridge
Climbing method:
Modified Hawk Helium’s with 2-step fabric aider
What happened:
Stick spun, causing linesman belt to catch me against the tree.
Cause:
Stick was placed with the lower tree bracket in a cup shaped depression on the tree, which kept it from being firmly attached. This wasn’t a problem when my weight was below the versa button, since the weight simply pulled down on the versa-button. Once my weight was applied to the top step, the stick spun 180° due to the lack of friction on the bottom bracket.
Gear engagement:
Linesman belt swung me into the tree, stopping my fall with 18-24 inches of friction against the tree.
Injuries:
Road rash on knuckles, minor bruising on torso
Recovery:
Re-set the stick in a more secure location and continued climbing.
What I learned:
Proper friction for tree brackets can be effected by tree angle, bark shape, and the angle of weight applied. Always ensure climbing sticks are tight and secure before applying weight.
................................................................................All climbing methods, platforms, saddle designs, and/or use of materials possibly mentioned in the post above are not peer reviewed for safety, and should only be used as an example of my own method. Do your own research and testing before becoming confident in any DIY solution to support your life.
-IkemanTx
Location of incident:
Climbing
Saddle type:
Diy modifies Sit & Drag with spliced Amsteel bridge
Climbing method:
Modified Hawk Helium’s with 2-step fabric aider
What happened:
Stick spun, causing linesman belt to catch me against the tree.
Cause:
Stick was placed with the lower tree bracket in a cup shaped depression on the tree, which kept it from being firmly attached. This wasn’t a problem when my weight was below the versa button, since the weight simply pulled down on the versa-button. Once my weight was applied to the top step, the stick spun 180° due to the lack of friction on the bottom bracket.
Gear engagement:
Linesman belt swung me into the tree, stopping my fall with 18-24 inches of friction against the tree.
Injuries:
Road rash on knuckles, minor bruising on torso
Recovery:
Re-set the stick in a more secure location and continued climbing.
What I learned:
Proper friction for tree brackets can be effected by tree angle, bark shape, and the angle of weight applied. Always ensure climbing sticks are tight and secure before applying weight.
................................................................................All climbing methods, platforms, saddle designs, and/or use of materials possibly mentioned in the post above are not peer reviewed for safety, and should only be used as an example of my own method. Do your own research and testing before becoming confident in any DIY solution to support your life.
-IkemanTx
Last edited:
I actually like the idea of the sticky. In the sticky a brief description of the Lesson Learned along with a link to the thread. The followup info in the thread typically adds value as to possible fixes and other experiences. For Instance:
Amsteel Bury Fail https://saddlehunter.com/community/...-slid-amsteel-bury-was-not-long-enough.17362/
Amsteel Bury Fail https://saddlehunter.com/community/...-slid-amsteel-bury-was-not-long-enough.17362/
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2019
- Messages
- 1,043
I'm
Struggling to understand how you were using the Amsteel. Was it like a woopie sling without a stopper knot, locked brummel, or something else?
Straight bury to make the loop.
Timber hitch to the tree.
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ImThere
Well-Known Member
Straight bury to make the loop.
Timber hitch to the tree.
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Those need to be brummel splice. Every time you take tension on and off those your tail will get shorter. Or you can lock stitch them. Most everyone will recommend the brummel splice.
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ImThere
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2019
- Messages
- 1,043
Glad your safe. Thanks for the warning
Cbinderjr
Well-Known Member
Would it be to much trouble to have a repeat sticky in every section for safety?
Ignorance and complacency is the reason most accidents happen, if the information is easy to access that could help the ignorance part.
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Sorry but could someone explain what they mean by a “bury” for the folks that are new to this? Locked Brummell vs bury means nothing to me yet. Just got some Heliums this week, so I’m interested in learning as much as I can.
Seems like a dumb question I’m sure, but if I have it I’m sure there are others as well.
Seems like a dumb question I’m sure, but if I have it I’m sure there are others as well.
Cbinderjr
Well-Known Member
Locked brummel is a term used when spicing hollow braid ropes like amsteel, the "bury" is the left over tag end that's get fed back into itself.
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ImThere
Well-Known Member
Locked brummel is a type of splice. It is self locking.
https://www.animatedknots.com/brummel-eye-splice-knot
Long bury splice
https://www.animatedknots.com/long-bury-splice-knot
Lock stitch is a stitch used to lock a long bury splice For a critical breaking strength , stitching adds nothing. movement, shaking, and inquisitive fingers, may displace the tail – even pulling it completely out of the rope – wrecking the ability of the splice to withstand a maximum load. The recommended stitching is a serpentine zigzag right through the rope and buried tail. This stitching is made up in one direction followed by a similar return pattern back down with the rope rotated 90 degrees.
Bury is the end of the rope that is fed back in to the middle of the rope the length of the buried tail should be 72 times the rope’s diameter. This is about three and a half full fid lengths (a full length fid is 21 times the rope’s diameter.) The very slippery Spectra and Dyneema require this long bury.
Make sure you taper the end of the tail. A tail with no taper creates a weak point because the square end of the buried tail abruptly
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https://www.animatedknots.com/brummel-eye-splice-knot
Long bury splice
https://www.animatedknots.com/long-bury-splice-knot
Lock stitch is a stitch used to lock a long bury splice For a critical breaking strength , stitching adds nothing. movement, shaking, and inquisitive fingers, may displace the tail – even pulling it completely out of the rope – wrecking the ability of the splice to withstand a maximum load. The recommended stitching is a serpentine zigzag right through the rope and buried tail. This stitching is made up in one direction followed by a similar return pattern back down with the rope rotated 90 degrees.
Bury is the end of the rope that is fed back in to the middle of the rope the length of the buried tail should be 72 times the rope’s diameter. This is about three and a half full fid lengths (a full length fid is 21 times the rope’s diameter.) The very slippery Spectra and Dyneema require this long bury.
Make sure you taper the end of the tail. A tail with no taper creates a weak point because the square end of the buried tail abruptly
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In addition to@ImThere ‘s informative response, please check Sampson’s official how to splice videos.
Make sure to match them to their products (amsteel blue is 12 strand)
https://www.samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope
Lastly, amsteel blue is different than amsteel. It has nothing to do with the color of the rope.
Make sure to match them to their products (amsteel blue is 12 strand)
https://www.samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope
Lastly, amsteel blue is different than amsteel. It has nothing to do with the color of the rope.