I need a shorter auto block

[aclawrence]

Hey guys I used a Beal jammy all last season and I always ended up sliding it all the way up as high as it will go on my tether. I set the tether about nose to eyeball height. I’m pretty short at 5’4” so that might be part of the problem. Y’all have any suggestions? Also not sure if auto block is the correct term in this situation. Anyway.

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[DB4x4]

Put another wrap or two in your jammy friction hitch.

 

[pesqimon]

Is that the long or short jammy? Looks long but could be perspective.

In addition to adding a wrap, you could get some cord and tie a distel hitch I find takes up less space all things equal.

Of course you could take the plunge and just cut the jammy you have instead of buying more cord.

 

[johnfajitas]

In true fearful form, I preface the following with I do not endorse the safety of what I do. I am just sharing what I use, and you will have to determine how to be as safe as possible. I’ve been using these. I like the VT Prusik better, but they both function well for an autoblock imho. The materials on the VT Prusik are more heavy duty, but for all intents and purposes, the 18” loop from bluewater works just as well. I keep one as a backup in case I drop the other.

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[aclawrence]

Put another wrap or two in your jammy friction hitch.

Trying to give me a common sense answer huh!


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[aclawrence]

Is that the long or short jammy? Looks long but could be perspective.

In addition to adding a wrap, you could get some cord and tie a distel hitch I find takes up less space all things equal.

Of course you could take the plunge and just cut the jammy you have instead of buying more cord.

I’m pretty sure I ordered the shortest option last year. I’ve seen a distel hitch mentioned a lot but I’ve never tied one. I may give one a try sometime.


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[bj139]

Alpine Butterfly.

 

[DB4x4]

Trying to give me a common sense answer huh!


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Sorry, I'll be less sensible next time.

Looks like you have 3 wraps, which is the minimum for a secure hold. I use 4 wraps in all of my prusik hitches because I prefer the way 4 wraps grab the rope. Some guys don't like this and they say that it "locks down tight."

If I'm hanging up at 20+ feet, that's what I want... Locked down tight, haha. I've never had an issue with a prusik locking down so tight that I couldn't move it. Unload the hitch, roll it a little to create some slack, and then move it.

Four wraps looks neater to me, more uniform, and gives me peace of mind. Give it a shot...

 

[bj139]

I had 4 wraps on my Beal jammy and it got locked up so tight I had to completely unweight it and rotate the knot to move it while I was in a tree. It was too tight with 4 turns for me. It all depends on your rope and cord configuration. The Alpine Butterfly is an accepted rock climbing knot to shorten ropes. All leads can be weighted with no slippage.

 

[sojourner]

In true fearful form, I preface the following with I do not endorse the safety of what I do. I am just sharing what I use, and you will have to determine how to be as safe as possible. I’ve been using these. I like the VT Prusik better, but they both function well for an autoblock imho. The materials on the VT Prusik are more heavy duty, but for all intents and purposes, the 18” loop from bluewater works just as well. I keep one as a backup in case I drop the other.

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The 7mm VT-Prusik is a good option. I just picked up one. It might be a little long for OP though. I have thought of calling Bluewater and seeing if they could do a run of custom length of 7mm VT-Prusik. I would be all over that for Oplux.

To the OP, the way I see it is limit the length of ends coming from hitch to carabiner. If you have sewn/spliced friction hitch, you will be limited by the plastic covered area with the splicing/sewing.

If you use knots, you will be limited to the length the knots take up.
In my experience, the sewn/spliced distance is longer than the knots; however, The sewn/spliced is much stronger. Sewn/spliced can sometimes be ordered in custom lengths.

I would look to get a sewn loop (prusik, klemheist) or sewn eye to eye (distel, schwabisch) friction hitch cordage. And I would make sure I choose the right length. Unfortunately, I am not aware of where one can custom order sewn loops or sewn end to ends for friction hitch cordage for oplux.

If that is not available, I would try to make do with existing sewn options, e.g., jammmy or 7mm VT-Prusik.

And if that didn’t work, I would just get a length of cordage and tie my own loop or ends.

Those are the options I would take in order of safety having highest priority, and next, minimizing length.

——

I have done this exercise for my 11 mm predator and have custom ordered sewn eye to eyes for my friction hitch cordage for that.

Last season, I added oplux and cut Beal jammy and made custom length tied ends and used a distel hitch. Right now, I have bought some friction hitch options for oplux and am investigating the best option for friction hitch cordage (safety, minimize length, ease of use). I need to get some tree time to make a final decision as to what I will use for oplux.

 

[johnfajitas]

The 7mm VT-Prusik is a good option. I just picked up one. It might be a little long for OP though. I have thought of calling Bluewater and seeing if they could do a run of custom length of 7mm VT-Prusik. I would be all over that for Oplux.

To the OP, the way I see it is limit the length of ends coming from hitch to carabiner. If you have sewn/spliced friction hitch, you will be limited by the plastic covered area with the splicing/sewing.

If you use knots, you will be limited to the length the knots take up.
In my experience, the sewn/spliced distance is longer than the knots; however, The sewn/spliced is much stronger. Sewn/spliced can sometimes be ordered in custom lengths.

I would look to get a sewn loop (prusik, klemheist) or sewn eye to eye (distel, schwabisch) friction hitch cordage. And I would make sure I choose the right length. Unfortunately, I am not aware of where one can custom order sewn loops or sewn end to ends for friction hitch cordage for oplux.

If that is not available, I would try to make do with existing sewn options, e.g., jammmy or 7mm VT-Prusik.

And if that didn’t work, I would just get a length of cordage and tie my own loop or ends.

Those are the options I would take in order of safety having highest priority, and next, minimizing length.

——

I have done this exercise for my 11 mm predator and have custom ordered sewn eye to eyes for my friction hitch cordage for that.

Last season, I added oplux and cut Beal jammy and made custom length tied ends and used a distel hitch. Right now, I have bought some friction hitch options for oplux and am investigating the best option for friction hitch cordage (safety, minimize length, ease of use). I need to get some tree time to make a final decision as to what I will use for oplux.

I feel like that is a good explanation. I do not use mine (VT Prusik) for anything but an autoblock while rappelling. I use a French prusik because it does not get overly tight. I will probably play with an actual VT prusik above my belay device, but I’m comfortable as is, so I’m not doing that soon. I will try to remember to take a picture later of how short it ends up. It should be shorter than what the OP showed in the picture. I also have no idea what size the OPs tether is, so 7mm may not cut the mustard.


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[sojourner]

I feel like that is a good explanation. I do not use mine (VT Prusik) for anything but an autoblock while rappelling. I use a French prusik because it does not get overly tight. I will probably play with an actual VT prusik above my belay device, but I’m comfortable as is, so I’m not doing that soon. I will try to remember to take a picture later of how short it ends up. It should be shorter than what the OP showed in the picture. I also have no idea what size the OPs tether is, so 7mm may not cut the mustard.


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His tether is Oplux, which is 8mm.

My 7mm vt-prusik is good for ropes 8 to 9.5 mm

After I get some tree time, I’ll most likely report what I have chosen and the alternatives I tried. This will be for a tended friction hitch for 8mm oplux, not for autoblock usage while rappelling.

 

[CharlieTN]

It looks like you’ve got more than enough there to cut it and re-tie it as either a Distel Hitch or a Swabisch Hitch. With them being attached to the carabiner using two poachers knots you can short them as much as you need then cut off the excess.

 

[aclawrence]

Thanks for the replies everyone. You’ve given me lots of options to think about.


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[Jabronie678]

To really customize to your needs properly sized accessory cord with climbing rating can be used.

Take whatever your mainline diameter size and choose an accessory cord diameter that is 60%-80% of your mainline. You can get several feet for reasonable prices and colors. I recommend through REI

Experiment with different lengths and loop sizes and tie off the loop with a double fisherman's knot. You and make any length friction hitch you want.

 

[arm breaker]

I feel like that is a good explanation. I do not use mine (VT Prusik) for anything but an autoblock while rappelling. I use a French prusik because it does not get overly tight. I will probably play with an actual VT prusik above my belay device, but I’m comfortable as is, so I’m not doing that soon. I will try to remember to take a picture later of how short it ends up. It should be shorter than what the OP showed in the picture. I also have no idea what size the OPs tether is, so 7mm may not cut the mustard.


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Do you use the 7mm VT Prusik below device as an autoblock like most folks run the hollowblock? Ive been wanting to try that.

 

[johnfajitas]

Do you use the 7mm VT Prusik below device as an autoblock like most folks run the hollowblock? Ive been wanting to try that.

I do exactly that. The VT Prusik isn’t a loop like the hollowblock, but you can use it similarly. It is really only there in combination with my ATC style belay for a little added comfort. The ATC by itself is very easy to manage, especially since I use a thicker rope. The thicker rope adds friction the the setup


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[TreeFrog]

The 35 cm BJ will be manageable if used as a schwabisch and girth hitched to carribeaner. Do a search for triad bridge to see how to get that hitch made from a continuous loop. That hitch will adjust easier than Prusik too. Mine has 6 wraps and still tends well on oplux.

 

[Brocky]

Hey guys I used a Beal jammy all last season and I always ended up sliding it all the way up as high as it will go on my tether. I set the tether about nose to eyeball height. I’m pretty short at 5’4” so that might be part of the problem. Y’all have any suggestions? Also not sure if auto block is the correct term in this situation. Anyway.

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Autoblock isn’t the correct term, it’s a slide and grip, friction hitch,or the commonly used term prussic, or some form of that word.

Another term being used incorrectly is girth hitch, the tether in your picture is a choked rope. If the Prusik was only wrapped once that would be a girth hitch, if both legs are loaded, one leg loaded would be a cow hitch.

 

[arm breaker]

I do exactly that. The VT Prusik isn’t a loop like the hollowblock, but you can use it similarly. It is really only there in combination with my ATC style belay for a little added comfort. The ATC by itself is very easy to manage, especially since I use a thicker rope. The thicker rope adds friction the the setup


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Nice. Yeah I use an ATC most of the time but with a hollowblock.