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Iron Will Broadheads

CamoMan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2014
Messages
465
Location
SE Minnesota
I used Iron will broad heads for the first time this year when I shot my buck. I am using the vented 100 grain broad heads.

Construction: Excellent. Uses top notch A2 tooling steel which stays very sharp and retains an edge. All of the broad heads arrived in excellent condition and all edges "stuck" to my fingernail.

Accuracy: I'm shooting axis 300 grain arrows with a AAE PM 23 4 fletch and the iron wills needed just a slight adjustment raising my rest to hit with my field points. After the minor adjustment the Iron wills and field tips were grouping out to 70 yards, which is the furthest my sight will go out to. I shot the broadhead into the target about 7 times and it was still sharp enough to stick to my fingernail. Overall I was very happy with the accuracy. The vented broad heads do have a slight "hiss" to them since they are vented. Very similar to the muzzy trocars that I used to shoot.

Field Test: I shot the buck broadside with a very minor quartering away and hit the buck about 2 inches behind the shoulder crease and it exited just at the crease of the opposite shoulder. The deer flinched and ran about 10 yards and then stumbled and after this he walked away about another 50 yards and then expired. The arrow was stuck in the ground and when I retrieved it it was still sharp enough to stick to my fingernail and there was no bending or chipping of any part of the blades. The blood trail was very apparent and he was bleeding from both sides.

Sharpening: I use the innovative outdoors stay sharp guide with 600, 1000, and 2000 grit sandpaper. It is a little bit of a process to sharpen the broad heads, but they end up razor sharp afterwards and it takes about 30 min per broad head to get them back to factory sharpness.

Final Thoughts: Overall, I am extremely pleased with how the broad heads have performed and would highly recommend. The company also has a lifetime warranty against any issues to the blades such as bending or chipping. The only knock I would give the vented version is that it is a little bit of a pain to clean the vents and you want to make sure they get clean and dry so no rusting occurs. If I were to buy another set I would consider the solid version to avoid this issue as well as the "hiss."

Let me know if you guys have any questions! Also, I've had a couple glasses of whiskey so pardon any syntax errors!
 
I have 6 iron will broadheads that I'll be using this year. I just got the sharpener ordered...how did you sharpen your IW?
 
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I have the solid 125s and they fly just like my field points. I bought the solids because of alot of guys talking abt the noise that the vented version make. The only knock on them is they do rust easily, so you need to keep them lubricated.
 
I have 6 iron will broadheads that I'll be using this year. I just got the sharpener ordered...how did you sharpen your IW?
Did you get the innovative outdoors sharpener? If so I just used a sharpie to color the blade edge I was working on to make sure as I sharpen that I gave the right angle and am getting the whole blade. I start with 600 and do both sides of the blade then go to 1000 and finish with 2000 grit. Then I move the sharpener to the next edge I want to work on. They don’t need sharpened that often. Like I was saying I shot my buck and it was still super sharp and looked brand new, so I just had to clean it up. I just shoot the same one into a target so I only have to sharpen one of them. Some people use a compound strop to finish for a nice polish, but I skip this step.
 
Sweet review. How much?


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100 bucks for a pack of 3. It's a lot compared to others, but like I said above I plan on using these same ones for a long time compared to the trocars, which I never used as long.
 
I love the broadheads and in fact have 6. Camoman, did you remove the head from the ferrell or sharpen it with the bleeder attached? Also, where did you get the sandpaper...will any 2000 grain work?
 
I'm also shooting the Iron Wills. Took 3 deer with them last year. I've also noticed they zip through a deer without it bolting at impact. Perhaps this has to do with shot placement as well but that was my observation. All 3 were complete pass throughs but I didn't hit anything other than rib bones.
I would say the Stay Sharp guide is a must have. I just used a 400/1000 whetstone and finished with buffing compound. But you only need to do this if it goes through an animal and even then they are still very sharp.
I agree, if I were to buy again I would go with the solids because cleaning meat and fat out of the vents is a pain.

I'm also using their 75 grain inserts and impact collars to beef up my system. Loving the 550 grain set up.
a543ecd6f88d1e0ab2a3d615528cd0a1.jpg


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I love the broadheads and in fact have 6. Camoman, did you remove the head from the ferrell or sharpen it with the bleeder attached? Also, where did you get the sandpaper...will any 2000 grain work?
Yes, I remove the head from the ferrule as you have to for the stay sharp guide on the sand paper. I got just generic wet/dry sandpaper from farm fleet, but any store such as home depot, lowes etc. should have these grits of sandpaper.
 
I'm also shooting the Iron Wills. Took 3 deer with them last year. I've also noticed they zip through a deer without it bolting at impact. Perhaps this has to do with shot placement as well but that was my observation. All 3 were complete pass throughs but I didn't hit anything other than rib bones.
I would say the Stay Sharp guide is a must have. I just used a 400/1000 whetstone and finished with buffing compound. But you only need to do this if it goes through an animal and even then they are still very sharp.
I agree, if I were to buy again I would go with the solids because cleaning meat and fat out of the vents is a pain.

I'm also using their 75 grain inserts and impact collars to beef up my system. Loving the 550 grain set up.
a543ecd6f88d1e0ab2a3d615528cd0a1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Have you found any tips or tricks for cleaning out the vents? I find it difficult. Once I get it clean I use a q-tip to put some oil in there to prevent rust.
 
Have you found any tips or tricks for cleaning out the vents? I find it difficult. Once I get it clean I use a q-tip to put some oil in there to prevent rust.
A Dremel with a little wire wheel works like a charm.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I used Iron will broad heads for the first time this year when I shot my buck. I am using the vented 100 grain broad heads.

Construction: Excellent. Uses top notch A2 tooling steel which stays very sharp and retains an edge. All of the broad heads arrived in excellent condition and all edges "stuck" to my fingernail.

Accuracy: I'm shooting axis 300 grain arrows with a AAE PM 23 4 fletch and the iron wills needed just a slight adjustment raising my rest to hit with my field points. After the minor adjustment the Iron wills and field tips were grouping out to 70 yards, which is the furthest my sight will go out to. I shot the broadhead into the target about 7 times and it was still sharp enough to stick to my fingernail. Overall I was very happy with the accuracy. The vented broad heads do have a slight "hiss" to them since they are vented. Very similar to the muzzy trocars that I used to shoot.

Field Test: I shot the buck broadside with a very minor quartering away and hit the buck about 2 inches behind the shoulder crease and it exited just at the crease of the opposite shoulder. The deer flinched and ran about 10 yards and then stumbled and after this he walked away about another 50 yards and then expired. The arrow was stuck in the ground and when I retrieved it it was still sharp enough to stick to my fingernail and there was no bending or chipping of any part of the blades. The blood trail was very apparent and he was bleeding from both sides.

Sharpening: I use the innovative outdoors stay sharp guide with 600, 1000, and 2000 grit sandpaper. It is a little bit of a process to sharpen the broad heads, but they end up razor sharp afterwards and it takes about 30 min per broad head to get them back to factory sharpness.

Final Thoughts: Overall, I am extremely pleased with how the broad heads have performed and would highly recommend. The company also has a lifetime warranty against any issues to the blades such as bending or chipping. The only knock I would give the vented version is that it is a little bit of a pain to clean the vents and you want to make sure they get clean and dry so no rusting occurs. If I were to buy another set I would consider the solid version to avoid this issue as well as the "hiss."

Let me know if you guys have any questions! Also, I've had a couple glasses of whiskey so pardon any syntax errors!

I'm guessing you mean 300 spine Axis arrows, not grain. What's your finished arrow weight? I've been seriously considering the iron wills for a while and believe I'll go with the solid option. With that, my slick tricks work excellent and they sure are much less expensive.
 
I'm guessing you mean 300 spine Axis arrows, not grain. What's your finished arrow weight? I've been seriously considering the iron wills for a while and believe I'll go with the solid option. With that, my slick tricks work excellent and they sure are much less expensive.
Yes you are correct. Like I said at the bottom it was after a few drinks lol. They are 498 grains finished weight currently. I'm switching to lighted nocks so that'll add about 14 more grains I believe. I will have to weigh it all once I officially switch out the nocks. And yes, my Muzzys always worked as well, but I wanted something that would last a long time and would be good for any big game I'll ever hunt. Kinda like buying a mercedes when a toyota will work just fine lol
 
Yes you are correct. Like I said at the bottom it was after a few drinks lol. They are 498 grains finished weight currently. I'm switching to lighted nocks so that'll add about 14 more grains I believe. I will have to weigh it all once I officially switch out the nocks. And yes, my Muzzys always worked as well, but I wanted something that would last a long time and would be good for any big game I'll ever hunt. Kinda like buying a mercedes when a toyota will work just fine lol

That's a solid weight. Over the past year my arrow build has been Axis 260 spine with 75 grain brass inserts. Three fletch blazers with the shorter blazer wrap and 100 grain broadheads. Total arrow weight is 532 grains.

I've been eyeing the Iron Will "reinforced HIT system with steel insert and external collars. The multitude of weight options with the insert makes the system very appealing. I've shot everything from 400-560 grain in the past 13 years, I really prefer the heavier arrows.
 
That's a solid weight. Over the past year my arrow build has been Axis 260 spine with 75 grain brass inserts. Three fletch blazers with the shorter blazer wrap and 100 grain broadheads. Total arrow weight is 532 grains.

I've been eyeing the Iron Will "reinforced HIT system with steel insert and external collars. The multitude of weight options with the insert makes the system very appealing. I've shot everything from 400-560 grain in the past 13 years, I really prefer the heavier arrows.
I was looking into the Iron will HIT system and collars as well. I'm running 50 grain brass inserts currently. The collars are intriguing as I found that the BAR system doesn't really fit the Iron will's. I agree with the heavy arrows. I much prefer shooting around 500ish. Speed doesn't matter to me since modern bows are all so fast that once you get over 275 fps broadhead flight gets sketchy
 
I'm running Carbon Xpress Maxima Red 350's. I piggy back a 50 grain brass insert on a standard insert in the front with solid 125's and nocturnals on the back. 3 a d 4 fletch blazers...475 grains at 260 fps with 26.5 inch draw at 70 lbs out of a RX3 Turbo.
 
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