Is this knot, hitch safe ????

[JC3]

I have been trying this simple knot, hitch, for the past couple of weeks in practice climbs, I don't think I copied anyone else....
The end of the 8mm Oplux is looped initially with just an over hand knot, then the carabiner is introduced as shown, (a picture is worth a 1000 words).
I wanted a knot, hitch, that would be easy to construct in the dark, but also be somewhat taught and not release easily during a single stick climb.
I have in past used the DMM carabiner, poacher knotted to the end of my line, but that was a challenge to keep in place with out be loaded.
It also releases after the hunt, easier that I thought it would, as it does not appear to "lock up" tightly
I attach to the carabiner and pull it down from ground level with my pull down line, after rappelling down.
If anyone can find a fault with this hitch, knot, let us know.

 

[raisins]

if safe, this would allow folks that stick climb to stay tethered and also work around branches

right now, the primary way to do that is using a screw link, but this might be better

and if you were to drop the carabiner, then you can always just feed the rope through the bight as usual and still be able to climb

 

[elk yinzer]

Following, I've been doing this also after seeing the JRB hitch but not needing two working ends this idea came to me. I can't find a fault potential with it but I don't claim to be an expert with it by any means. I guess the gate could become an issue but I make sure the load stays away from it.

 

[TommyDee]

I know the load moments are not what carabiner is designed for, but seems there would be very low load on those 2 loops, should be mostly within the hitch. Waiting for an expert….or better yet, would be cool to see someone test this rig to failure, see if the rope or biner goes.

 

[thedutchtouch]

That is a very clever knot. Carabiners girth hitch with a twist to capture the working end of the line. I have no knowledge/ability to weigh in on its safety, but it is very smart (looking to me). If the safety gurus deem it acceptable I may be copying you.

 

[raisins]

I know the load moments are not what carabiner is designed for, but seems there would be very low load on those 2 loops, should be mostly within the hitch. Waiting for an expert….or better yet, would be cool to see someone test this rig to failure, see if the rope or biner goes.

that section of aluminum is so short that it has to be very stiff and strong, but you are bending it sideways in comparison to the intended direction

 

[raisins]

That is a very clever knot. Carabiners girth hitch with a twist to capture the working end of the line. I have no knowledge/ability to weigh in on its safety, but it is very smart (looking to me). If the safety gurus deem it acceptable I may be copying you.

a downside i can see in comparison to a screw link in the same job is that this would be easier to tie wrong and it might give way if that happened as you weight it....versus a screw link is idiot proof in the dark with gloves....so long as the rope is inside it and you have it screwed down (and this is very easy to check visually)

 

[JC3]

a downside i can see in comparison to a screw link in the same job is that this would be easier to tie wrong and it might give way if that happened as you weight it....versus a screw link is idiot proof in the dark with gloves....so long as the rope is inside it and you have it screwed down (and this is very easy to check visually)

My main reason for this endever was to find a knot, hitch that would keep the tether taught during the climb and release easily.
It was one of those, lets try this and "hmmm that might really work moments"
I am not nearly as skilled as John JRB is in the knot creation world, but really admire his skills.

 

[JC3]

if safe, this would allow folks that stick climb to stay tethered and also work around branches

right now, the primary way to do that is using a screw link, but this might be better

and if you were to drop the carabiner, then you can always just feed the rope through the bight as usual and still be able to climb

You gave me a idea, have a short line that attaches the carabiner to the loop end so you can't drop the carabiner.

 

[Still Kicking]

Good idea! I would feel a lot better climbing on it with a figure eight knot rather than the overhand. Just my take though, we all need to do what makes us feel safe.

 

[Iron_llama]

You gave me a idea, have a short line that attaches the carabiner to the loop end so you can't drop the carabiner.

Make the tail after the figure-8 knot forming your loop a few feet longer. Scaffold hitch it to your 'biner, vet-wrap on either side of it so it can't slide anywhere.

 

[Fairchild#17]

I fooled around with that hitch this evening and I really like it. Easily adjustable and cinches right up. It did bind down on my 8mm Resc tech though, to the point that you had to pull to the left to retrieve your rope. Pulling to the right just wouldn't give up the grip on the tag end for me.

 

[Lowg08]

This is an intriguing idea. I can not weight in on it yet but I’m thinking it’s safe from general looking. I’ll mess with it tomorrow. I’ll have to get in my little book of knots and numbers. I hope it’s safe. It would be an excellent way to carry a second tether for going around branches. Only down side I would see is I’m not sure if you miss a loop. You may be a goner. Of course that could be said for lots of things we do.