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JX3 Tree setup

K

Kmark77

New Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
26
Location
SE WI
I just got my JX3 a couple of weeks ago and I have been practicing climbing and shooting at height. The one thing I havent been able to figure out is how to set myself up at the beginning of the hunt. As a new saddle hunter I hadn't given it much thought until I was out practicing.

For example the first time I set up I put the tree directly in front of me a where I would expect the deer to come from. I found this challenging to draw my bow and shoot down the tree. I was making contact with my bottom string against the bridge and had to swing out further to get clearance, which I haven't quite mastered yet without making to much noise/ being stable enough to shoot. I tried loosening the backrest to give me more room, but then it felt like i was laying down/doing a crunch to shoot.

The second time I put my back to the place I was going to be shooting and this gave me more movement and shooting ability, but you cant really see anything coming down the trail until its within shooting distance, which is unfortunate cause I would already like to have drawn my bow by then.

How do you set up in the tree with regards to the trail/area you are hunting? I was thinking of at a 45, between the tree and trail (see below).
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Kmark77 said:
I just got my JX3 a couple of weeks ago and I have been practicing climbing and shooting at height. The one thing I havent been able to figure out is how to set myself up at the beginning of the hunt. As a new saddle hunter I hadn't given it much thought until I was out practicing.

For example the first time I set up I put the tree directly in front of me a where I would expect the deer to come from. I found this challenging to draw my bow and shoot down the tree. I was making contact with my bottom string against the bridge and had to swing out further to get clearance, which I haven't quite mastered yet without making to much noise/ being stable enough to shoot. I tried loosening the backrest to give me more room, but then it felt like i was laying down/doing a crunch to shoot.

The second time I put my back to the place I was going to be shooting and this gave me more movement and shooting ability, but you cant really see anything coming down the trail until its within shooting distance, which is unfortunate cause I would already like to have drawn my bow by then.

How do you set up in the tree with regards to the trail/area you are hunting? I was thinking of at a 45, between the tree and trail (see below).
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Yeah you got it. It’s not much different in a jx3 than Lockon your just facing the tree & I know some guys like to lean in their JX3 I just haven’t much. I’m seated most of the time & shoot that way as well ( so takes a little bit of maneuvering to get lined up. But not really more so than I traditional stand, just different.
 
you should be able to sit directly underneath your girth hitch, with the fork resting on the tree, seat of the hybrid perfectly level, your knees at 90*, and your feet with very little weight on them when set properly. Then you should be able to pivot 30* or so on the fork in either direction by moving one foot or the other, opening up your strong shooting position from 6-1 on the tree. This should be done at whatever speed you choose, with no noise. If you can’t execute this move, you have your tether set at the wrong height, your seat is not set perfectly level, or your platform is too high or low. It also helps to have some type of foot purchase on either side of the tree in the form of a ring of steps.
 
I have been wondering the same thing, I was thinking 180 to the trail so the tree is in front of you then just rotate one way or the other for the shot.
Not sure which is better, to have the tree hiding you when your setting vs already being 90 and ready for the shot
 
Take KyleR’s notes. As far as angle to potential shooting direction, I do what you’ve got in your diagram, about 135 degrees from the trail. A couple of other notes... A higher tether height gives more rope for maneuvering... A couple of ring of steps on either side of your stick/platform helps stabilize once you’ve rotated, should the need arise. I’ve also found it easy to stand on my platform/stick to shoot weak side from 12 o’clock to 9ish.
 

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A ROS is key part of the JX3 versatility and your ability to shoot 360
I typically have a minimum of 4 up to 6 steps depending on the size of the tree equally spaced around the tree.
I like to set up with the deer (hopefully) approaching directly at me as I sit facing the tree.
This will hide you.
The trail should be on your bow side, so as the deer walk by you have a nice full side shot.
If things do not go as planned, you can easily walk around the tree quietly and get into shooting position
I like to lean into the side webbing, so the bow string easily clears the JX3
 
All,
Thanks for the advice. I definitely think not having a ROS is where im seeing some of my issue. I had just been using the top of my last stick to maneuver and getting more than 30 degrees of rotation was a challenge. I think ill also need to adjust my tether height around. Im a bit on the bigger side and with a higher tether (~1ft above my head) the bridge is fairly close to my chest. Ill try putting it at nose height to see if it will pull the bridge out further from my chest.
 
I’ve had my JX3 Hybrid for a year now. I used it all of last season. I find that I like my tether as high as I can reach above my head. When spinning to shoot remember take the fork off the tree and get a new bite and it will help you stay more balanced on a larger tree. On a smaller tree you do not have to do that


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Looks like I need to experiment more with the tether height. Any recommendations on ROS systems?
 
Kmark77 said:
Looks like I need to experiment more with the tether height. Any recommendations on ROS systems?
Click to expand...

I used squirrel steps on an OCB all last season. Worked great. I use 6. You can get away with 5 for sure. They're light so I like having the extra step. There are cheaper options too. Really, you're not standing on them much so any set will do...I like the squirrel steps mainly for packability.
 
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