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Make it make sense

Micneador

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2020
Messages
885
Location
Sapulpa, Ok
So, nabbed a 16 strand fast flight string the other day for my newly built warf. I had a 10 or 12 strand from Lancaster and the nocks are so loose I was loosing the arrow upon drawing the bow back

This is a bear panther riser, sabastian flute Evo carbon/foam #42 limbs that are giving me #47.5ish at the fingers and my draw length. (~46lbs with the riser @28" if the math checks out)

Went to bareshaft tune my 32" gold tip trad 500's w/ 225g up front. Weak. Ok, worked my way down to 150 total, still way weak. Played with some full length 400's and had anywhere from 150-300 grains up front and they all still showed weak. Did some searching/reading and seen a few folks state that being over spined can cause false weak readings. Dropped to gold tip warrior 600's 30.5" and only 150 up front to get it to fly right bareshaft. No bueno for hunting arrows as this is only around 370 TAW.

What gives? Surely a 500 spine isn't THAT over spined for a 47lb bow is it? Also, I know my form isn't the greatest but it can't be that bad.

Guess I'm gonna have to find some 600 spine GT trads and build up a new set of hunting arrows.
 
if shooting off a rest, move it out a smidge. riser is most likely past center.
Negative, I have a diy accutune. attempted moving it out a smidge,took it off completely.

If the riser is cut past center then I should, in theory, be able to shoot a stiffer spine rather than having to go weaker right?
 
For a weak arrow you can lower the brace height, move your silencers in towards the center serving, add more silencers, lighten point weight, shorten the arrow, or switch the strike plate out for a thicker and/or stiffer material.
 
Did you solve the loose nock fit? I didn't see that in your narrative. Is that what the 16 strand string was for?
Are you sitting split finger or 3 under? If 3 under make sure not let your fingers push the nock too tight against the nock point. That can cause flight problems with any arrow.
 
If I’m reading your post correctly you have a draw length a little over 28”, correct?

Assuming no nock issues like @Phopkins mentions, I would be really surprised with those specs that a 500 spine is stiff enough to give you a false weak. I would try again another day. I’ve had days were I was getting weird bareshaft results and I just put the bow down and came back the next day and things suddenly made sense again. It doesn’t take much of a hiccup in your form to make bareshafts do weird things.
 
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Did you solve the loose nock fit? I didn't see that in your narrative. Is that what the 16 strand string was for?
Are you sitting split finger or 3 under? If 3 under make sure not let your fingers push the nock too tight against the nock point. That can cause flight problems with any arrow.
Yes the 16 strand was to solve the loose nock fit I think maybe it's to tight now.

Fixed crawl just under my second nock point
 
If I’m reading your post correctly you have a draw length a little over 28”, correct?

Assuming no nock issues like @Phopkins mentions, I would be really surprised with those specs that a 500 spine is stiff enough to give you a false weak. I would try again another day. I’ve had days were I was getting weird bareshaft results and I just put the bow down and came back the next day and things suddenly made sense again. It doesn’t take much of a hiccup in your form to make bareshafts do weird things.
I draw 29 1/4"-29.5"
I've been working on it for 3 days.

With my other bow that is close to the same specs, black bear with Sammik sage limbs bareshafted well with the same arrows/point weight and being ever so slightly weak.
 
I draw 29 1/4"-29.5"
I've been working on it for 3 days.

With my other bow that is close to the same specs, black bear with Sammik sage limbs bareshafted well with the same arrows/point weight and being ever so slightly weak.

I’d never have guessed that 47# bow with a 29”+ draw needed a 600 spine shaft but, it wouldn’t be the first time I was surprised in tuning.
 
I’ve killed 5 critters close to/over 200# each with 379gr TAW. Granted, that’s out of my compound but I think TAW matters less than we may be led to believe. More on trad bows than compounds, but less than RF would suggest.
Also, may just be the arrows. I haven’t shot GT in like 8 years but Im switching to the Easton Carbon Legacy shafts on my recurve soon from an older Cabela’s series of shafts. They use the accucarbon extrusion process and their spines are completely consistent all the way around the shaft, and from shaft to shaft. Makes bare shaft and nock tuning negligible by comparison to some arrows I’ve shot. #notasponsor #couldbe
Granted I’m pretty novice with the recurve. I mainly replied to this thread cuz I’m a curious sort.
 
I’d never have guessed that 47# bow with a 29”+ draw needed a 600 spine shaft but, it wouldn’t be the first time I was surprised in tuning.
I will say, at least it bareshaft tunes SOMETHING. :sweatsmile:
I cut down one shaft just to see how much could load the front. Ended up with a 175 grain point with stock insert and lighted nock for 410 TAW.

Now to source some higher GPI 600's to build a hunting shaft.
 
Definite brain teaser! Only advice I can offer is to try a smaller diameter shaft. I’ve seen some noticeable spine differences with certain bows.

Good luck. It can certainly be frustrating. Stay with it! I look forward to seeing where you land.
 
I will say, at least it bareshaft tunes SOMETHING. :sweatsmile:
I cut down one shaft just to see how much could load the front. Ended up with a 175 grain point with stock insert and lighted nock for 410 TAW.

Now to source some higher GPI 600's to build a hunting shaft.

I was wrong with this statement. I had read in a thread here that the long weighted inserts could give you the affect of a slightly stiffer spine, that held true. Took a shaft and added an aluminum GT 50 grain insert and was able to get it to tune with the insert and 175gr point for 425 TAW (re weighed last night)

Wife had her gallbladder removed on Friday and has some pain related complications since then so my brains fried. Spent entirely to much time at hospitals in the last 7 days.
 
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Are you canting the bow. If so knock high or low will make it appear left or right. Also a big issue with bareshafting is trying to watch the arrow. Head pops up and crazy things happen. Relax and shoot smooth.
 
Are you canting the bow. If so knock high or low will make it appear left or right. Also a big issue with bareshafting is trying to watch the arrow. Head pops up and crazy things happen. Relax and shoot smooth.
Straight up and down. Made that mistake with my first bow.
 
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