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Need Help Choosing Caliber for New Rifle

I'm primarily a bow hunter here in Tennessee, and I also have my childhood .243 and a muzzleloader to use for hunting whitetails around here. But, I'm ready to purchase my first "big" hunting rifle, and I would love to hear from y'all about what caliber to choose. I plan to use it on everything from whitetails to mule deer to antelope to elk (nothing bigger than elk, such as moose or grizz), and I'm planning to get a Weatherby Vanguard. I want something that will pack plenty of punch for elk at 300 yards, while also being pleasant enough (relatively) that I'll enjoy practicing with it, and also not overkill for whitetails and antelope.

I've done some research (Google, MeatEater, etc.), and it seems the best choices are 30-06, .300 Win Mag, and .308. What do y'all think?

Thanks in advance!
Remington 700 BDL 7MM Mag...magnificent caliber...very flat and packs one helluva punch
 
Sell the .243 or retire it to a place of honor and get you a 25-06 then use it for everything.
 
There is no animal in North America a 30-06 cant effectively kill with the right ammo. I have both a 30-06 and tactical .308. The 30-06 is all you need. Ammo is about always available. It just depends on the type of rifle you want. If you want a shorter barrel light weight easy handling carbine style rifle, the 308 is better. Can be had in bolt, lever, pump, or semi auto.
 
The 308 case head is fine, the pressure is too high for that diameter of case. Contenders are available in 45-70 for example. The larger diameter the case, the lower the pressures have to be.
Nope. It is the backward thrust of the cartridge head that is too high. The frame will stretch at some point. Search stretched frame.
Contenders are chambered in 223 which is at the same pressure as the 308 but with a smaller case head diameter.
 
If you really want the best and I do not think anyone has mentioned it go with the .26 Nosler. Kill anything in North America and the .26 bullet is a known tack driver. I still like my Ruger American in 6.5 predator version that I fill the stock with bondo and #7 shot. I would shoot this gun against any out there. One hole gun at 300 and consistently under 7" at 1000 if conditions are right. Shawn
 
Nope. It is the backward thrust of the cartridge head that is too high. The frame will stretch at some point. Search stretched frame.
Contenders are chambered in 223 which is at the same pressure as the 308 but with a smaller case head diameter.

You just restated my post using different words. You're original post said a .473 case head is too big for a Contender. That's only partially correct. It's only too big for 308 operating pressures, at lower pressures a case head of that diameter is fine. That's why Contenders are availble in rounds that are larger diameter than a 308 like the 45-70, because they operate at sufficiently low enough pressures.

If you want to discuss it in terms of backthrust, fair enough. What is the source of that backthrust? Pressure. Pressure (press = lbs/in^2) multiplied by the area (in^2) it's acting over equals the total force acting against the frame. Smaller case heads as you correctly stated originally, can operate at higher pressures without exceeding the maximum total force against the frame. As the case diameter gets larger the pressure has to go down to avoid exceeding the maximum force on the frame.
Explain to me how that's incorrect.
 
Send the 30-30 barrel back and buy a 7-30 waters barrel. Use your 30-30 brass and fire form the brass to take a .28 bullet. No pressures to worry about and you will have a truly awesome Contender deer hand gun!! Shawn
 
You just restated my post using different words. You're original post said a .473 case head is too big for a Contender. That's only partially correct. It's only too big for 308 operating pressures, at lower pressures a case head of that diameter is fine. That's why Contenders are availble in rounds that are larger diameter than a 308 like the 45-70, because they operate at sufficiently low enough pressures.

If you want to discuss it in terms of backthrust, fair enough. What is the source of that backthrust? Pressure. Pressure (press = lbs/in^2) multiplied by the area (in^2) it's acting over equals the total force acting against the frame. Smaller case heads as you correctly stated originally, can operate at higher pressures without exceeding the maximum total force against the frame. As the case diameter gets larger the pressure has to go down to avoid exceeding the maximum force on the frame.
Explain to me how that's incorrect.
You are right. My bad. Sorry.
 
You just restated my post using different words. You're original post said a .473 case head is too big for a Contender. That's only partially correct. It's only too big for 308 operating pressures, at lower pressures a case head of that diameter is fine. That's why Contenders are availble in rounds that are larger diameter than a 308 like the 45-70, because they operate at sufficiently low enough pressures.

If you want to discuss it in terms of backthrust, fair enough. What is the source of that backthrust? Pressure. Pressure (press = lbs/in^2) multiplied by the area (in^2) it's acting over equals the total force acting against the frame. Smaller case heads as you correctly stated originally, can operate at higher pressures without exceeding the maximum total force against the frame. As the case diameter gets larger the pressure has to go down to avoid exceeding the maximum force on the frame.
Explain to me how that's incorrect.

This sounds correct to me. I would also add that straight wall cases provide a better grip to the chamber and reduce pressure to frame.


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This sounds correct to me. I would also add that straight wall cases provide a better grip to the chamber and reduce pressure to frame.

In practice case shape/taper can play a part no doubt. From a design standpoint they may not factor in case shape into the equation. At least I wouldn't anyway, all it takes is a little oil/sizing lube in the chamber for the case to loose it's grip
 
Well 6 pages and 113 replies later what gun/caliber did you go with @TNbowhunter ?
:tearsofjoy: I'm currently waiting on stock of the guns to return, but I'm really torn between the 7mm Rem Mag and 30-06 Sprg. I like the ballistics of the 7mm better, but I like the ammo availability, ammo variety, and nostalgia of the 30-06 better. Don't think I would be going wrong with either, but I'm leaning toward the 7mm Rem Mag. I'll let y'all know what I end up getting!
 
:tearsofjoy: I'm currently waiting on stock of the guns to return, but I'm really torn between the 7mm Rem Mag and 30-06 Sprg. I like the ballistics of the 7mm better, but I like the ammo availability, ammo variety, and nostalgia of the 30-06 better. Don't think I would be going wrong with either, but I'm leaning toward the 7mm Rem Mag. I'll let y'all know what I end up getting!

You won’t find many places without 7mm RM ammunition if they sell ammunition at all. Definitely in the top ten most common deer calibers. I don’t really worry about that too much though. Once you find a load your gun likes to shoot you should buy enough to last. Even different lot numbers of the exact same ammunition will generally shoot slightly different.

Sure, in a pinch you’re better off with whatever the local store has than nothing at all but I’d never consider that without range time to sight in.


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I have a .25-06 Browning A-Bolt, and while it is a beautiful whitetail gun I don’t think I could suggest it for elk. I have never elk hunted, so this is all just personal, but I have had sika and whitetail run at 250+. I think you would be under-gunned on elk at 300 or more. It sucks, as the gun is really accurate, and there is no recoils to speak of, but to get what you are looking for I think you are going to have to go with something with more punch on both sides of the bullet.
 
In practice case shape/taper can play a part no doubt. From a design standpoint they may not factor in case shape into the equation. At least I wouldn't anyway, all it takes is a little oil/sizing lube in the chamber for the case to loose it's grip

I agree. I wouldn’t factor it in but it does ease my mind a bit more when starting to push the upper limits.


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This coming from a guy who owns bolt and lever action rifles made by Remington (M700's) Ruger (M77) Savage (116's & 10"s) Browning (A-Bolt"s) Mauser (98 & 96) Marlins (X7 and 336c) and Tikka and reloads for them all.
My advice buy once cry once
Buy a stainless steel synthetic stock Tikka hands down the most accurate rifle I havecever owned or been fasrer and easier to find an accurate load for and is very very well made with excellent QC.
You will not be sorry if you buy a Tikka
If wood stock is your thing then Tikka makes both straight and laminate wood stocked rifles. In most people's opinions there is no better production factory rifle under $800 than a Tikka
As far as which caliber that's tougher than the rifle choice these days.
If your not recoil shy then I'd suggest 30/06 as every body makes great big game ammo in all the latest and greatest bullets in 30/06 and it will be on shelves in every last place that sells ammo
If recoil is an issue I'd suggest something like a one of the newer 6.5 calibers like the Creedmoor or the 7mm/08 is a great all around caliber just remember the lower powered non magnum calibers will have limits on how far you can take a shot on big boned big heavy game animals Ike Elk and moose
Others will disagree but I wouldn't if given a choice want to hunt and elk and moose with smaller calibers like a 243 yes if I for some strange set of circumstances had to choose to either elk hunt with a 243 or 25/06 or not hunt I would hunt with the 243 or 25/06 but if my choice were a 243, 30/06 or 300wm I grab the 300wm every time.
I know plenty of elk are killed and have been killed with 243s and 25/06 but the advantages a 180 to 205 grain bullet traveling at over 2500fps when it unexpectedly encounters an elk shoulder joint vs a 105-120 grain bullet speak for themselves.
 
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